it's beautiful here.

A week around the South Island of New Zealand.

Why New Zealand?  

Back in May we went on the most phenomenal roadtrip around the “Land of the Long White Cloud”, New Zealand, or Aotearoa, as it is called in Maori. We spent a week driving around the South Island. Home to some of the most pure and diverse landscapes you will ever encounter, the South Island of New Zealand truly is an unrivalled natural environment. 

The main purpose for our trip was to check out two of Relais&Chateaux’s most highly regarded properties in the Pacific - Matakauri Lodge in Queenstown, and Otahuna Lodge in Canterbury - and brand new luxury lodge, The Lindis.

On arrival into New Zealand we learnt about a beautiful initiative whereby travellers are being asked to take the Tiaki Promise, essentially vowing to act as a guardian of New Zealand. “Tiaki" means to care for people and place in Maori, and the Tiaki Promise is an invitation to visitors to care for New Zealand by treading lightly on the environment, travelling safely and considerately, and respecting culture. And this is exactly what we tried to do, with grace and gratitude, as it really is the greatest privilege to spend time in this incredible country.  

Here, we share with you some of the highlights of our journey, including time spent with some of the most down-to-earth locals you could ever meet.  

Queenstown.  

Queenstown is undeniably one of the most spectacular places in the world - a majestic, serene beauty, sitting perfectly on the edge of the stunning Lake Wakatipu, backed by dramatic alpine mountains. It is a true nature wonderland.  

On arrival into Queenstown (after a spectacular flight through the snowy-covered alps), we went straight to Hertz New Zealand to pick up our rental car. Located just 5 minutes from Queenstown Airport, it was a super easy process. We wanted something robust and were given a Toyota Prado GX from their selection of Premium 4WDs. We hit the road, stopping in Queenstown for a quick bite (make sure you try a burger at famed “Fergburger”) before making the short 10 minute journey around the lake to Matakauri Lodge.  

Matakauri Lodge.  

Sitting on the edge of Lake Wakatipu, on 9 acres of pristine land, Relais&Chateaux’s Matakauri Lodge offers panoramic views over the lake and mountains (namely, Cecil Peak, Walter Peak, and The Remarkables). The setting is extraordinary. With just twelve luxury suites, this is an intimate and private lodging experience. We were lucky enough to be staying in one of the Deluxe Suites, one of Matakauri’s most luxurious options, large in size, with a bedroom set apart on a mezzanine floor and a spectacular mountain outlook. The oversized bathtub, with its views over the lake, and windows that opened up to let the cold mountain air in, was definitely the highlight for us.  

Matakauri Lodge was founded by New Yorker Julian Robertson (originally from North Carolina), and opened back in 2010. Julian, who also owns Cape Kidnappers and Kauri Cliffs, fell in love with New Zealand on a holiday back in 1978, and has since built these three outstanding luxury properties across the country. At 86 years old, Julian is still heavily involved in the daily running of each of his hotels. With a passion for art, you will find some of Julian’s personal art collection throughout the lodge – ranging from original Picassos, to an original Sir Mountford Tosswill Woollaston as well. Julian’s aim was for Matakauri to feel more like a home than a hotel, and it is safe to say this is definitely the sense one gets on arrival. General Manager Emanuel Grosch is a warm and impressive host, his kind and relaxed welcome setting the tone for a heavenly stay. The feeling here is definitely one of causal, cosy luxury. There are no strict dress codes, staff know you by name, and dining times are all very flexible. On top of that, guests can choose where they would like to dine - from the Library, to the Dining Room, to the Remarkables Patio, the Courtyard or the Lounge (or perhaps even a private table for two at the end of the jetty!). Everything can be tailored exactly to guests’ needs.  

Head chef Jonathan Rogers has been with the property since 2011, a year after the lodge’s  opening, and his daily-changing menu showcases the very best local and seasonal produce, with everything being sourced from no more than two hours away. He has a tiny garden onsite, but his focus is more on supporting local producers and farmers. Assisting him in the kitchen are 10 chefs (for a maximum of only 32 guests!). Dinner is five courses, starting first with pre-dinner drinks and canapés. The dining room is stunning with its floor to ceiling windows and panoramic views over the lake to the mountain peaks, and this is where breakfast is also served each morning.  

Interiors, by New Zealand’s acclaimed interior designer Virginia Fisher, are sumptuous and rich in colour. The lodge itself features clean lines in glass, stone and timber, with big open fire places scattered throughout, and floor to ceiling windows showcasing the surrounding beauty of the lake and mountains. Four suites are located within the main lodge, with the remaining suites nestled around the property on the banks of Lake Wakatipu overlooking the mountain panorama.  

The Owners Cottage, which opened four years ago, is a dream for those travelling in a group or with family. A luxurious and private cottage full of light and space, with interiors also by Virginia, this four-bedroom villa is unbelievably impressive. The cottage has access to its own private chef and there is a hot tub on the large terrace that overlooks the lake. They also have access to their own private jetty, and Matakauri can arrange for jet boat arrivals should guests wish.  

We enjoyed a relaxing spa treatment in Matakauri’s little spa that overlooks the pool and jacuzzi. The “Back Specific Mud Treatment” was out of this world, with an application of self-heating mud applied to the back to help alleviate muscle tension and pain.   

What to do.  

We recommend taking a hike around the nearby Moke Lake. A really lovely (and easy) walk, not far from Matakauri Lodge, a loop track takes you right around the edge of the picturesque Moke Lake, through grassland and surrounded by mountains. It is very pretty, and offers some beautiful views back over the lake.  

Another option would be to hike to Sam Summers’ Hut, a tad more strenuous, but very rewarding. This three-hour loop provides an interesting glimpse into life as a gold prospector. Sam mined in the area on and off for 30 years, and the hut itself was built around 1930. Today the hut is used as a base for hikers seeking accommodation and is maintained by the Department of Conservation. After reaching the hut, you will cross 12 Mile Creek and then climb up a ridge that overlooks Lake Dispute. From here you can either follow the track back to the car park, or you can follow the fence line on down to Lake Dispute and out onto Glenorchy Road. It is an incredible hike.  

Lastly, if you are game, brave the cold and take a dip in Lake Wakatipu (New Zealand’s third largest lake). Its crystal-clear waters while very inviting remain at a chilly 8-10 degrees Celsius all year round.  

From Queenstown to Christchurch.  

From Queenstown to Christchurch, the landscape changes dramatically. Highlights on the drive were the section through the Lindis Pass - a dramatic mountain pass that crosses the valleys of the Lindis and Ahuriri Rivers at an altitude of 971 metres above sea level. The Lindis Conservation Area runs beside the highway, and while there are no formal hiking tracks, you can certainly take a walk through the undulating tussock grassland which dominates the landscape.   

We arrived at the Ahuriri Conservation Park (taking the Birchwood Road), just north of the Lindis Pass, and drove 15km through mountain, tussock, and wetland scenery, passing thousands of Merino sheep alongside the Ahuriri River, before reaching The Lindis. The Merino sheep in the valley (all 4500 of them!) are used for their wool (not meat), and most of the wool is sold on to the Icebreaker brand. The Ahuriri River is known as one of the top 10 fly-fishing spots in the world, so if you happen to be visiting during the fishing season (November to April), it makes for a fun activity to try. But above all else, it is worth spending a night or two at the brand new luxury lodge, The Lindis.

The Lindis.

The Lindis is an incredibly remote yet refined high country lodging experience in the heart of New Zealand’s South Island, appropriately named after the picturesque alpine roadway, the Lindis Pass, you pass through when driving north from Queenstown. The lodge can be found deep in the heart of the Ahuriri Valley on a 240-hectare sheep and cattle station, Ben Avon. It is this dramatic setting that makes it the perfect place to enjoy complete stillness.

Taking two years to build, the sympathetic design of wood, glass and steel, blends seamlessly into the valley with its roofline mimicking the natural undulations of the surrounding mountainscape. With some of the darkest and clearest skies in the world, stargazing at The Lindis is extraordinary. Here, you can choose to do everything or nothing at all. With an impressive line-up of activities, including fly fishing on one of the world’s best stretches of water for doing so (listed as top five in the world), you won’t be bored (unless of course you want to be). Horse riding, hiking, and e-biking through the valley and into the alpine mountains is also on offer. And then of course there is the hot tub, sitting alone in the middle of the valley, with nothing or no one else around, this is one of the best places for a soak I have ever seen. The Lindis is currently working on some more accommodation that will be rolled out later in 2019 – individual glass pods, buried deep in the mountains. They will surely be incredible; definitely a reason to return again soon.

With only five suites at The Lindis, each with its own exceptional view out over the Ahuriri Valley, the accommodation experience is an intimate one. Choose between two Master Suites, and three Lodge Suites. The Master Suites command a larger and more private space at either end of the building, and are definitely worth the extra splurge. With a private sitting area, both indoors and outdoors, a large bath tub, and a double-sided gas fire place – these suites offer both luxury and privacy, and the perfect platform from which to enjoy the quiet and calm of the valley. The mini bar, full of local drinks and snacks, is complimentary during your stay.

Head chef Cesare Stella (who is such a kind, gentle man) and sous chef Aurelio Stella (Cesare’s son) hail from Italy, but now call New Zealand home. With light streaming into the Great Hall, from where all dining takes place, this is a lovely space to enjoy their daily-changing menu which showcases local and seasonal produce from their very own kitchen garden, as well as their Italian heritage. Cesare kindly took us on a tour of his garden one sunny morning; his passion for quality produce was inspiring. New Zealand wines are paired with the meals each evening, and hand-selected world class wines are available for purchase from an impressive cellar. The property is situated on one of the best stretches of water for fly fishing in the world, the internationally renowned Ahuriri River. The season runs from November to April, so if you are lucky to be staying at The Lindis over that period you can wander down to the river, running right in front of the lodge, to give it a shot yourself.\

Guests will also be able to watch local anglers from the lodge as they fish for trout over the summer months. Another highly recommended activity is the gliding experience. With one of the world’s best soaring environments right on their doorstep, the dramatic landscape is best enjoyed from the air.

Flights around nearby Mt Cook or even Milford Sound are also possible. We loved taking out The Lindis’s e-bikes (sounds lazy I know!) to better explore the valley. Andy, the activities manager, dropped us off at the end of Birchwood Road, about 22 kilometres from the lodge, and we then rode back from there – a stunning ride along the braided river. Horse trekking is also possible with 16 horses in The Lindis’s stable.

Taking in the high country farm land, through native New Zealand beech forest and sub alpine herb fields, this is another spectacular way to enjoy Ben Avon station and the surrounding Ahuriri Valley. Lastly, don’t leave without having a soak in the spectacular wooden hot tub which sits happily on its own in the middle of the valley. It is very beautiful here.

From the Ahuriri Conservation Park, you will drive north alongside the stunning Lake Pukaki, the largest lake in the area, and one with the most unbelievably bright turquoise water we had ever seen. The colour of the lake is due to glacial flour, which comes from the extremely fine rock particles from the surrounding glaciers. When the sun hits the lake’s surface, it reflects off these rock particles to transform them into the most brilliant blue colour. Coupled with New Zealand’s tallest peak, Aoraki/Mount Cook in the background, this is an incredibly jaw-droppingly beautiful spot. If you have time, or feel like stretching your legs, there is a wonderful bike (or walking) track around the perimeter of the lake. It’s very beautiful here.   

Lake Tekapo is the next lake you will pass, and another beautiful part of the journey. We took some time to walk along its turquoise waters, admiring again the incredible mountainous backdrop of the Southern Alps. Lake Tekapo is part of a UNESCO Dark Sky Reserve making it perfect for stargazing (should you be there when night falls). There is a gorgeous little church on the shore of the lake - the Church of the Good Shepherd - which is definitely worth a quick look. The church was built in 1935 for pioneer families of the Mackenzie district and is still used as a place of worship today.   

Christchurch and Canterbury.  

Set against another majestic backdrop - from the alps to the ocean - Christchurch and the Canterbury region offer everything from lush vineyards and rugged coastlines to alpine mountains, waterfalls and pristine glacial lakes; it is indeed a region of remarkable contrasts. We spent most of our time in Canterbury (30 minutes south of Christchurch), but popped into Christchurch one afternoon to check out Japanese architect Shigeru Ban’s cardboard cathedral (that was built in response to the ChristChurch Cathedral being damaged in the 2011 Christchurch earthquake), and stopped for coffee at New Zealand’s finest roaster, Allpress. Both places well worth a visit.  

Otahuna Lodge.  

Driving into Relais&Chateaux’s sweeping Otahuna estate in Canterbury, along its long and winding driveway, you instantly feel a sense of magic. With its pristine, manicured grounds, and views back over the Canterbury Plains and the Banks Peninsula, there is a feeling that this almost can’t be real. The closer you get to the lodge itself – a 19th-century Victorian estate, with dark trees framing its façade - you know you are somewhere special. It must have been the same feeling that captured the hearts of two charming American folk, Hall Cannon and Miles Refo, who bought Otahuna back in 2006 after falling in love with the property on a visit to New Zealand a few years earlier. They knew at once that Otahuna was something rather wonderful. Hall and Miles set about on a mission to restore the extraordinary estate to what it is today, ensuring it continued to inspire and captivate today just as it always had done since its creation by Sir Heaton Rhodes in the late 1800s. Both Hall and Miles are impeccable hosts: kind, passionate, knowledgeable, and terribly sophisticated. Their welcome is both warm and generous, and nothing is too much trouble for them as hosts.   

Otahuna Lodge seamlessly blends the old and the new, with contemporary touches throughout making the older ones seem brighter and more compelling. There is a definite sense of nostalgia in the period woodwork, the stained-glass windows, the personalised staff uniforms, and the 15 working fireplaces throughout (including some in bathrooms). It is like stepping back in time. The lodge is also filled with a superb collection of contemporary New Zealand art.  

Otahuna’s garden is incredibly impressive and it is lovely to enjoy the beauty that blooms across the estate just by wandering through it – one of the most captivating parts of the property for sure. A green thumb’s dream, the organic vegetable garden boasts more than 120 different kinds of organic fruits, vegetables, nuts and mushrooms. Executive Chef Jimmy McIntyre was in France when we visited, but the kitchen was led instead by Austrian-born Sous Chef Christian Bochsbichler (in the evening), with Kiwi local Nikki on for day service. Each evening we were treated to Christian’s delicious dinners – five small courses which changed daily. We had the luxury of choosing from which room in the house we would enjoy these. The first night we chose the library (so cosy and romantic), and on the second night we decided upon the grand dining room, with its table for twelve (although we were but just two!). For that particular evening, Christian had informed us that we would be the only guests dining in-house, and therefore asked if we had any special requests. Sure enough, everything we requested then appeared on our menu. It was mind-blowing. Mini schnitzels (my partner’s request!) arrived in tiny brioche buns as canapés with our pre-dinner drinks by the fireplace in the drawing room. A delightful fillet of fish arrived for entrée, and then main was an entire fillet of beef (my request!) that Christian proceeded to slice and serve up in front of us. It was extraordinary. He then served us homemade banana ice cream with a flourless chocolate cake for dessert. Both evenings providing such incredibly memorable dining experiences. The matched wines, all from New Zealand, were amazing as well, and service was exemplary.   

For breakfast, Nikki (who is an absolute delight) can prepare anything to your tastes, in a sunshine-filled kitchen. Alongside a selection of cereals, fruit, pastries, her own freshly-baked sourdough, and freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, you can also opt for a hot breakfast of your choice – eggs from Otahuna’s chickens, and other homegrown produce. Service, again, is immaculate.    

It goes without saying that the Otahuna experience is nothing short of remarkable. Otahuna is the epitome of old-world service and charm. Staff will bend over backwards to ensure you enjoy the most memorable stay. Every single little detail is considered. As we all know, the mark of a good hotel experience is one that makes you want to return, and in bringing new life to Otahuna Lodge, Miles and Hall have succeeded enormously in doing just that. They have added a layer of richness to the luxury lodge experience, and the magic that has been woven through Otahuna is palpable. We will definitely return (and hopefully soon).  

What to do.  

We recommend booking a day out with Canterbury Guiding Co, Otahuna’s preferred guiding company. Run by an exceptionally kind and passionate local couple, Fiona Newsome and John Ellis, Canterbury Guiding Co. are the experts in creating outstanding private guided tours within Christchurch and the wider Canterbury region. Having read wonderful things about the TranzAlpine journey (The Great Journeys of New Zealand) operated by KiwiRail, we wanted to include this in our day. Starting in Christchurch, and travelling all the way to Greymouth on the West Coast, the TranzAlpine train journey is rated as one of the world’s great scenic railway journeys. We were collected from Otahuna by Fiona and John early one frosty morning, and then dropped off at a nearby train station to start our journey on the TranzAlpine. From Christchurch to Greymouth, the train journey is 223 kilometres long and takes four and a half hours, passing through nineteen tunnels, and four viaducts, the highest being the Staircase standing at 73 metres. Rather than taking the train both ways, Canterbury Guiding Co. met us half way at Arthurs Pass, giving us a private road transfer back to Christchurch. That way we were able to experience the wonderful train journey and the contrasting road journey, during which Fiona and John stopped at some great locations for us to enjoy. Along our train journey we travelled through the fields of the Canterbury Plains, travelling alongside the ice-fed Waimakariri River and its gorges and braided rivers, and then traversed into the Southern Alps, passing miles of native beech forest.   

Both passionate about sharing their wonderful Canterbury region with us, Fiona and John passed on an immense volume of knowledge on the Arthurs Pass National Park and the entire region itself. Driving us into Arthur’s Pass (after collecting us from the Arthur’s Pass train station), we were able to get a taste for the highest and most beautiful pass in the Southern Alps, and the place where the two tectonic plates meet (from the Australian side and the NZ side). Arthur’s Pass climbs to more than 900 metres through the Arthur's Pass National Park. The natural beauty is incredible. We did a short and beautiful hike to the base of Devils Punchbowl Falls, a stunning 131-metre high waterfall.   

We were also introduced to the Kea – a parrot native to New Zealand and one that is found only in the South Island. Beautiful in colour (olive-green with an intense orange colour under its wings), they are the smartest parrots in the world, and the only truly alpine parrots. Innately curious, these cheeky parrots are attracted to people, and can often cause a little mischief. Known to like rubber, they can oftentimes be found plucking the rubber off people’s cars (windscreen wipers and so on) – so beware!  

Fiona and I were sharing stories of our life and travels and it was then that she explained to me the meaning of a “Pepeha Mihi”, a form of introduction in Maori that establishes identity and heritage, and also a way to introduce yourself. It was fascinating to learn these little cultural tidbits.   

On our way back to Christchurch, Fiona and John took us past Castle Hill (or “Kura Tawhiti" in Maori). Considered to be the very centre of the South Island, Castle Hill has been referred to as one of the great energy centres of the universe (by the Dalai Lama, no less). Deep in a basin among the eastern ranges of the alps, Castle Hill is home to huge limestone boulders and rocky outcrops that are popular with rockclimbers and skiiers. More than that though, this is an area of cultural and spiritual significance for Maori, with traces of 500-year old charcoal drawings found hidden amongst the rocks, said to have been left by the Waitaha, the first people to travel through this area. Fiona and John shared with us stories about magnetic grid lines (similar to those found at Stonehenge in the UK) and lines of energy that are said to have some sort of cosmic meaning. The land on which the Castle Hill Conservation Area sits is interestingly privately owned by a farmer, who runs merinos and beef cattle on his 11,000 ha station. He kindly shares his land now with fascinated tourists who like to pay these giant rocks a visit. Definitely something worth checking out. 

A day spent with Canterbury Guiding Co. is a must-do on any visit to Otahuna Lodge and the Canterbury Region. Both experiences combined will leave you with the best and most lasting impression of this stunning region.  

And what an incredible week it was. We reluctantly returned our vehicle to the Hertz counter at Christchurch airport, before jumping on our flight home to Australia, comforted in the knowledge that a roadtrip around the South Island could absolutely never disappoint. It’s very beautiful here.  

It was about 15 years ago that one of my best friends, Emily, became heavily involved in the Art of Living - a not-for-profit organisation founded by the world-renowned humanitarian and spiritual leader Sri Sri Ravi Shankar back in 1981. I was fascinated about the meditation and breathing techniques Em would speak about, and was always very intrigued to find out more. If you were to  one day meet Emily, you would find she is one of the most calm, balanced and happy people you will ever come across - she embodies pure joy - and I wanted to learn how this could be achieved.

The Art of Living offers effective educational and self-development programs and tools that facilitate the elimination of stress and foster deep and profound inner peace, happiness and well-being for all individuals. These programs, which include breathing techniques, meditation, yoga, and practical wisdom for daily living, have helped millions around the world to completely transform their lives.

Back in March last year, I was lucky enough to try their Art of Meditation program - a 3-day course (just 3 hours each day) that teaches you an effortless meditation technique (known as “Sahaj Samadhi”), training your conscious mind to experience peace, clarity and creativity. It was an incredible experience. The Sahaj Samadhi Meditation program is only taught by teachers who have been personally certified by Sri Sri Ravi Shankar. This meditation comes from a tradition that is thousands of years old, and has been preserved in its purity so that you will have the clearest experience of meditation. 

Chris Dale, one of Australia’s finest and most renowned teachers (and the one who brought Art of Living to Australia), led our course with grace. Chris explained how meditation is a natural state beyond waking, sleeping and dreaming that offers an unlimited reserve of energy, intelligence and creative power and a place of infinite peace, joy, and creativity. Joined by Cameron Norton, we were given our own personal mantra, and were quickly able to learn/practice and experience the benefits of the technique. Sahaj Samadhi Meditation is an effective way in providing deep rest to the mind because it is totally effortless, especially when combined with pranayama and Sudarshan Kriya breathing techniques. Both your mind and body relax into a state of profound rest which allows stresses to dissolve so that you can tap into your own unlimited source of energy, creativity and inner peace. 

We were set a 40-day challenge following the course, which (surprisingly!) I managed to stick to, and I am not exaggerating when I say how instantaneous and powerful the results seemed to be. It really was a life-changing experience and lesson, and something I have been able to continue to implement into my daily life.

And then just last month, I was lucky enough to join the Art of Living’s Happiness Program that was held at Melbourne venue, The Beatt. Also led by Chris, together with an equally lovely teacher Yolanda Kuhn, we were taught a series of yogic breathing techniques, including the powerful Sudarshan Kriya, which is known to reduce stress and raise your energy, bringing you back to a clear and positive state of mind. The scientifically-proven benefits of the practice include higher levels of optimism, greater levels of antioxidant enzymes, stronger immunity, improved emotional regulation and the ability to reduce stress and anxiety.

Throughout the 3-day course there were a number of individual and group activities that we had to participate in - some quite overwhelming at first - but all totally ok given the nurturing environment we were in. The Sudarshan Kriya breathing technique became easier as the 3 days went on. Again, we were set up a 4-day challenge following the completion of the course, and I am trying very hard to stick with it. Together with the Sahaj Samadhi Meditation, I know for sure this will be an incredibly powerful tool in helping to foster a deep inner peace within.

Check out the Art of Living website for more information on their programs.

I can’t recommend it more highly.

Soundtrack [Spirit Bird].

To be surrounded by the pristine desert scenery of the Australian Outback, home to the Aboriginal people and their culture for well over 30,000 years, is not only a privilege but an incredibly overwhelming experience. The natural beauty and richness of this vast landscape is hard to describe - the redness of the dirt, the endless ridges, chasms and gorges, the colour of the mulga’s (part of the Acacia family) silver branches sitting pretty alongside a royal blue sky, the desert wildflowers, and the wide expanse of land with barely another person in sight. Having just returned from a week-long hiking adventure along the infamous 223km Larapinta Trail, I feel a renewed sense of awe and inspiration for, and deeper understanding of, our ancient indigenous culture - the oldest culture in the world - and the Traditional Owners of the land.

In rather oppressive heat (35 degrees each day!), our hike with Great Walks of Australia and World Expeditions (who pioneered this trail back in 1995) was more than just an adventurous way to experience the ancient “Tjoritja” (the West MacDonnell National park) landscape. It also became a fascinating journey into the culture, spirit, and ever-changing relationship between the people and the land; a deeply authentic way to familiarise ourselves with the country.

In the safe hands of three young and passionate wilderness guides, Alice, Earle and Andrew, our group of sixteen began our walk at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station - the official start of the Larapinta Trail, walking west through witchetty bush, mulga scrub, and shady woodlands. A diverse bunch of fellow adventurers - from a spine surgeon to a tailored-suit maker, a pig farmer to a production line manager, from a student to a corporate high-flyer, and everything in between - our group was made up entirely of Aussies and Frenchies (all of whom loved a “yarn”). 

We would stop for lunch under the shade of the Mulgas, our guides setting up comfy picnicking spots along dry riverbeds. Food on the trip was always wholesome and plentiful - 3 courses at dinner, and a well-considered menu - one night for example was  toasted turkish bread over the camp fire with dips and olives, Barrumundi parcels also cooked over the camp fire with a sweet potato mash and salad, and then mini pavlovas for dessert. The quality of your guides is crucial on a trip like this. We were fortunate enough to be led by a late-20 something go-getter from Tassie, Alice, who has been working on-off in the desert for the past few years. A kind, confident, knowledgeable and passionate leader - Alice led the group like a pro. Earle, a 21-year old also from Tassie, had an eager enthusiasm and was truly at home in the bush. They were a great little team. It was the third guide’s Andrew’s first time on this trip (he had previously worked guiding around Uluru) and he was key for sharing with us stories of indigenous history and culture.

Each night we would sleep in a swag (either inside a safari-style tent or out in the open) at one of World Expeditions’ impressive, architecturally-designed eco-campsites by Neeson-Murcutt Architects, nestled amongst the hills just off the Larapinta Trail. These innovative and sustainable campsites were the perfect place to kick back and enjoy the outback solitude. Designed to help minimise the environmental impact, the camps are home to a communal tent for dining, safari-style tents for sleeping, composting toilets (to ensure that no waste enters the environment), solar lighting systems, and hot water  for showers that is heated in an outback style, gas-fired “donkey” water heater. We would be given a bucket’s worth of water each day (2.5 minutes worth) to hook up to an outdoor shower. All waste and rubbish was removed from the camps on a regular basis, with everything being recycled where possible.

For me, highlights of the 6-day trip included a sunrise hike to the summit of Mount Sonder - Central Australia’s second highest peak at 1,380 metres. Getting up at 2am, we were driven to the base of Sonder and from there it was head torches on as we hiked the 8km (2.5hrs) up in the pitch black, with only a gazillion stars above, the brightly-shining moon, and the other walkers to lead the way. The views out over the rocky peaks and troughs of Tjoritja, in an ever-changing pink and orange sky, were breathtaking.

Ormiston Gorge and Ormiston Pound was another favourite stop, largely due to the scale of its towering walls, and the richness of the red rock all around. We soaked in yet another watering hole, surrounded by red rocky walls and shaded by trees.

Meeting up with local indigenous woman Deeanella Mack - with her amazing passion and energy for her people and the country - was another highlight. Deanna, founder of Cultural Connections NT, aims to help raise cultural awareness by sharing her knowledge. We learnt all about ‘creation time’ (commonly incorrectly referred to as ‘Dreamtime’), culture kinship and the skin system, and other cultural considerations. Deanna taught us how to “tune into country”. We learnt about the kin system and how aboriginal people call their mother’s sisters their mothers, and their father’s brothers their fathers. Their children therefore become their brothers and sisters, not cousins. Some children grow up not knowing who their biological parents are! The “Arrernte Skin system” consists of 8 skin names (some tribes only have 4) - a system put in place based on genetics - it gave tribespeople a purpose, and also ensured they didn’t marry too closely. A skin name is akin to a position description in a corporate, but there is no hierarchy in skin names - the chart determines what people did and when. The elders are effectively the ‘board of directors’. There were 250 different Aboriginal languages spoken here before British settlement, with  the first white people only arriving about 75 years ago.

We learnt that the Aboriginal culture is not about asking questions - elders never reveal any answers, instead they encourage you to listen, feel, and taste. Their knowledge is shared, always. No one person ever holds all the knowledge, it can’t be lost. We were introduced to native plants (lemongrass for example, that the local people crush up, mix with fat, and use as a vapor on their chest), and they way aboriginal people would test if something (a plant) was poisonous - by rubbing it under their arm, near the lymph nodes, to see if would start to swell. If it did, this would mean it was obviously not good to eat. Nature would tell their people what to do next. Here, there is no such thing as “time” as the western world knows it.

Another local indigenous woman, Rayleen Brown, taught us all about native bush foods. The super passionate owner and founder of Kungkas Can Cook, a catering company-turned-cafe specialising in native bush foods collected straight from country. Indigineous people have been eating for bush foods for food and medicine for years - kangaroo, wattle, and bush crops like bush tomato, for example. The native Kakadu plum is considered to be one of the highest Vitamin C fruits in the world. The Mulga bush is an important food source as well - its wattle seed being full of iron, minerals, proteins - which reduces glucose, and helps to regenerate cells a lot more quickly. Mulga produce a lot of seeds can grind them down to use in cooking - seed cake, for example.

Things you notice in the desert: a staggering number of flies; an incredible quiet and calm; more stars than you ever seen in your life; an abundance of endemic bird-life; desert wildflowers in bloom; the dingo’s howl; and the joy that comes from being totally disconnected from the outside world.

As our van made the 200km journey back into Alice Springs (albeit blowing a tire on the way!), the soft hum of Xavier Rudd’s Spirit Bird song played in the background. A song  Rudd wrote as an expression of the beauty of the aboriginal spirit, and one that sends a strong message about two issues very close to Xavier’s heart: environmental protection and the rights of Aboriginal people to their land. A reminder of how precious and ancient this landscape is, and how we must strive to protect and honour it.

If you are looking for an active way to enjoy the Australian Outback - and one that will not only be a humbling and grounding experience, but one that will enable you to connect not only with each other, but also the land, on a much deeper and spiritual level - the Larapinta Trail is for you. 

*The Classic Larapinta In Comfort is one of the ‘Great Walks of Australia’ collective and is operated by Australian Walking Holidays which is a division of the World Expeditions Travel Group. For enquiries and bookings contact 1300 7678 381.

Anything goes in Marrakech! Truly, it is the disorder of the city, and the oftentimes craziness, that makes me love it there so much. The colours, the noises, the smells, the spices, the amazing craftspeople, the mix of old and new - Marrakech is so many things. Local people here share a kindness and sweetness, and their hospitality is second-to-none. 

Here are a few of my favorite things…

To eat/drink.

Nomad: for it’s rooftop and delicious veggie plate. Their alcohol license is currently being renewed, so in the meantime mint tea will have to do.

Cafe épices: recently renovated to take over the building next door, this beautiful space has a sunny rooftop which looks over the épices square (buy a beautiful woven bag from the sellers in the middle of the square, or one of Nadege Arnaud’s gorgeous homemade bags at her boutique, Bloom.

Le Jardin Secret: another wonderful hideaway in the medina that does great food in a beautiful garden setting.

La Famille: another hidden gem, and my favorite of all. French jeweler Stéphanie Giribone has created the most beautiful secret garden restaurant - beautiful interiors, an open kitchen, lots of greenery, and a little gift store at the front of the cafe. It’s beautiful here.

la Terrasse des épices: for their great food and rooftop.

Jemaa El-Fna Square: to check out the hundreds of illuminated food stalls in the evening, and the fresh orange juice sellers during the day.

To be cultured.

YSL Museum: the brand new YSL Museum, devoted entirely to the work of legendary couturier Yves Saint Laurent, should not be missed. Housed in a 6000-square-metre architectural wonderland by French architectural duo, Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty of Studio KO, the building is beautiful and so is the exhibition itself. A super creative and inspiring space. Take your time to explore the neighbouring Majorelle Gardens as well.

Try a traditional hammam (you can’t go past the one at Royal Mansour - unbelievable!!!) - for a lot of tossing and turning and rubbing and scrubbing on a big chunk of stone!

To be pampered.

Royal Mansour: the King’s hotel. The white marble-filled hamman here will blow your mind. Luxury and opulence at its absolute finest.

Yoga with The Yogi In Me (who also have studios in Paris).

To shop.

LRNCE: Belgian Laurence Leenaert’s Marrakech-based lifestyle brand became an obsession of mine on my recent visit. Started 4 years ago in Belgian (it was just bags at that stage), Laurence moved to Marrakech a couple of years ago and moved into this stunning light-filled showroom in the industrial district in September 2017. I am basically in love with everything she creates! From rugs to wall hangings, ceramics to clothes, bags and shoes, she is one very talented woman. 

Marrakshi Life: for Randal’s unisex clothes that are hand-loomed in his atelier just outside the centre of Marrakech. We especially like his jumpsuits. Make sure you take time to visit the atelier. It’s amazing to see the incredible craftspeople in action.

Popham Design: for stunning handmade concrete or cement tiles - individually made in a happy, light-filled factory outside the city. Also worth a visit to see these amazing tile makers at work.

Chabi Chic: a Moroccan accessory and interio brand based in Marrakech. 

To sleep.

Villa des Orangers: it was my dear friends at the Kiwi Collection who introduced me to this beautiful property. As with many of the best things in Marrakech, Villa des Orangers is hidden behind an unassuming wooden door on a busy street near the foot of the Koutoubia Mosque, just outside the medina, which gives little hint as to the beauty that lies within. Until stepping through those big wooden doors, you would have no idea of the magic that awaits. The building - which dates back to 1930 - is full of marble and lattice and incredible tiles, and surrounds a couple of pretty courtyards and a beautiful pool. On arrival, there are endless friendly staff to greet you, give you a tour of the property, and show you to your room. If your budget allows, pay that little bit extra and book one of the double story rooms overlooking the pool (room 19). A beautiful escape. I have never seen a more incredible shower like that one!! And the freestanding bath is stunning as well. Breakfast is served in a pretty terrace by the pool, but you can choose to take it any of the other quiet corners around the property if you wish. The same goes for lunch. They have their own very calming in-house spa and hamman as well (which sadly I ran out of time to try). Perfectly located (the very heart of the medina is only a 5-10min walk away), Villa des Orangers is a very quiet, peaceful and beautiful place to stay. 

And other places we love:

Riad El Fenn: for it’s color, color and more color. 

And outside Marrakech:

The Scarabeo Camp in the Agafay stone desert- for an unforgettable lxury camping experience in the desert.

Bab Ourika Kasbah: an old favourite. Perched high on a mountain top in the Ourika Valley in the Atlas Mountains, this is the perfect place from which to escape the city for a few days, or simply as a day trip to enjoy a long lunch in the garden.

And for more of our past Morocco adventures, see here, and here! xx

It had always been a dream of mine to visit the Italian UNESCO-heritage town of Modica in Sicily. The main (or only) reason being to stay in one of the gorgeous stone houses of Casa Talia. I had somehow stumbled across this little gem of a boutique hotel about 15 years ago. My sister Sophie had booked it on my recommendation and visited in between that time, but until September last year I had still never made it myself. So to finally roll into Modica (after a frustrating Vueling flight from Rome, where they lost all of our luggage for more than 3 days!!!) was a travel dream come true. To meet with Casa Talia’s gracious host and owner, Marco Giunta, was another super special moment. We literally chatted for days! The whole Casa Talia experience was a perfect one.

The town of Modica offers a window into a baroque world. Surrounded by stone houses that seem to sit on top of each other all over the hillside, and hundreds (literally) of baroque cathedrals, the architecture here is dramatic and incredibly beautiful. A true medieval marvel.

Together with his wife Viviana Haddad, Marco Giunta is the visionary behind Casa Talia. Originally from Milan, Marco and Viviana (both architects) bought a tiny abandoned house and garden in Modica’s Jewish Quarter back in the early 2000s with the view to restore it into a small guesthouse. They were looking for a slower life. It took years between finding the rightful owner of the land, making an offer and organising the acquisition, to securing the land, obtaining the necessary permits, completing the drawings and construction and so on, until they were finally able to open for business 4 or 5 years later. Since then the guesthouse has grown to 11 rooms and suites - most centered around a secret garden, a magical Mediterranean style hideout which was the exact thing that lured Marco to the Casa Talia location in the first place. 

They sourced colourful, antique tiles from all over Sicily (the ones on the floor of the breakfast room being my favourite), and used local materials wherever possible when building the houses. A thoughtful and homemade breakfast is served each morning in the most delightful garden - with pinch-yourself kind of views looking back over the Catholic Quarter in Modica. It is honestly so beautiful it is hard to believe what you are looking at is real. 

Each season Marco and Viviana reveal a new room (one they have worked on during the quieter winter months). We were lucky enough to spend a few days in one of their brand new suites - with its own private terrace and unparalleled views of the baroque city - which had only been completed the week before we arrived. We were the first guests to try it out! 

During the time of our visit, Marco was also working on his and Viviana's new architecture studio (another amazing looking space), while also working on converting his existing architecture studio in Milan into a 1-room boutique apartment. I saw the plans when I was there and it looks amazing - a cube-shaped structure in the middle of a private piazza, all glass and steel and complete with a living green wall. Not only that, Marco has collaborated on a project in Cefalù (see our separate guide to Cefalu) - an incredibly beautiful seaside villa with direct access to a private beach, just 5mins from the centre of town. He has also helped former guests buy land in and around Modica, helping then redesign/restore the houses for either their own personal use or to turn into boutique accommodation. I joked with Marco that his life is quite possibly the antithesis to the "slow living" one he came looking for! He has so many projects on the go, it's amazing! A truly kind, humble, gentle and inspiration man - it was such an honour to spend a few days in his presence. If you get the chance, I highly recommend a visit to this incredible project

And while in Modica…

To eat/drink.

Book a table for dinner at 1* Michelin Restaurant, Accursio Ristorante: to enjoy a delicious menu and beautiful views over Corso Umberto from its outdoor terrace.

Book a table at Locanda del Colonnello Ristorante: for it’s pretty dining room and it’s interesting take on traditional food. And then grab a drink at Rappa Wine Bar next door.

Local things to try…

Granita and brioche (with or without ice-cream) - a typical Sicilian sweet lunch - from La Latteria Gelateria.

Arancini (another typical Sicilian snack food) from the Piccolo corner bar.

The local pasta dish of gnocchi with fava beans.

A bottle of Tarì, a Sicilian craft beer brewed locally in the hills of Modica.

To do.

Visit the 100+ churches in the Catholic Quarter - opposite Casa Talia.

Visit Monica’s 100+ chocolate shops!

Visit the nearby beach of Calamosche - 55mins.

Drive 2hrs west to the white cliffs of Torrre dei Scurchi.

And check out Marco’s other incredible property in Cefalù, also available via i-escape: Cefalù Boutique Villas.

Last month I had the greatest pleasure of joining Atelier Doré, Travel Club Mr & Mrs Smith, and twenty truly inspiring women from across the world, in Marrakech. The reason for our coming together? A creative retreat crafted by Garance Doré, French illustrator, photographer and creator of lifestyle studio Atelier Doré centered around ‘The Art of Storytelling’. Held in the rainbow-coloured riad that is El Fenn, we - a mixed bag of women from different places, of different ages, and with different passions (but with a common interest in creating) - joined forces under the Moroccan sun.

Together with Mr & Mrs Smith, Garance chose El Fenn as the home for our retreat - a warm and cosy riad hidden in the medina - for the strong sense of emotion it evokes. Soft, warm, dark, moody, light and bold colors and textures…the ultimate setting for creative inspiration. After being woken up at 5:30am each morning to the sound of the call to prayer, the workshop kicked off with yoga on the rooftop terrace as the sun was slowly starting to rise, followed by a delicious healthy breakfast. A dreamy start to each morning.

Through a series of workshops we were taken on a journey of self-discovery; exploring the idea of storytelling - in whatever form that might take. Tracy McMillan, an instantly likeable, warm, and fascinating character, is an American TV writer, author and relationship expert who was invited to host a workshop around ‘The Art of Telling your Story’. A true and natural storyteller herself, with an infectious happy energy, Tracy talked us through how stories are crucial to the human experience - “it is how we organise our experiences, and our thoughts about our experiences. Stories are how we make sense of the world”. Coming from a trauma-filled upbringing, it was inspiring to see the way Tracy has chosen to live her story and navigate her way through this world. She talked about love and relationships, and fear and failures. It was Tracy’s line about “when you are living according to your own narrative, you set everyone around you free” that resonated with me the most. At the end to the day, we all have a story.

Garance’s workshop was centered around ‘The Art of Photography’. Sitting up on the rooftop in the morning sun, we learnt how ‘Garance Doré' came to be - from a place of little or no support to the illustrator/writer/photographer Garance is today. With a natural warmth, openness and grace, Garance shared stories of her former partner Scott Schuman of The Satorialist by crediting him as being the one who sparked in her an interest in photography in the first place. It was Scott who told her that “if you can create an emotion, you’ve got a business” - advice Garance said she had at once loved and hated at the same time. As she says, “an emotion will never come twice, so if you have the emotion, write it, or take the photo”. If you are a real photographer, you steal the shot. Take the photo, all the time”. I loved this message. It was also Garance’s comment that “you carry your art with you”, so “make people curious about you” that has stayed with me since leaving Marrakech - basically you have the ability to choose the way you share your story with the world.

Morgan Sézalory, the super sweet founder of French label Sézane (a contraction of her last name and first name), talked us through ‘The art of creating a brand’. France’s first ever digital brand, Sezane is an absolute phenomena in France and Morgan spoke with such openness and honesty about how she started Sézane almost by mistake, without any kind of plan. She described herself as being “lazy and innocent”, but said she kept doing what she felt most passionate about and did it always with kindness and love - values that were instilled in her as a child - and values that are still carried through everything she does today. As Morgan says “the artist comes first, so follow your instinct. Put truth and heart into your projects”. Morgan has always worked with a deep respect, understanding and love for her followers and customers. At Sézane it is all about the experience, and she always ensures she engages with her customer base in the most generous way possible, whether that be giving out tote bags with every order (that she has collaborated with an artist on), or printing beautiful quotes on little cards. Proof that it is all about the little things; how to tell a story through a brand.

Our afternoons at the retreat were spent visiting and being inspired by local artisans at work; hearing their stories and learning about their craft. We spent a few hours with the lovely team at Chabi Chic in their beautiful, light-filled ceramics studio outside of the city, learning the art of marbling - a long-standing Moroccan craft. We then spent time with charismatic husband and wife team, Caitlyn and Samuel Dowe-Sandes of Popham Design, originally from the US but now residents of Morocco for the past 11 years. They kindly opened up their colorful studio and artisan workshop to teach us the art of making a handmade cement tile - a huge part of the heritage and cultural and artistic identity of Morocco. Joining their friendly team of mellums (or tile artisans), we were given the opportunity to make our own tile. It was fascinating to watch these talented, happy craftsman get to work in their workshop where they make over 140 tiles each per day. On our final day we were fortunate enough to have a guided tour of the new YSL Museum - a museum devoted entirely to the work of legendary couturier Yves Saint Laurent - housed in a 6000-square-metre architectural wonderland by French architectural duo, Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty of Studio KO. A super creative and inspiring space.

It was a week of sharing, learning and openness. In such an online world it was so refreshing to connect and share with so many accomplished and like-minded women in the real life, with space and time, not to mention being surrounded by the breathtaking beauty that is Marrakech. The Smith Hotels’ El Fenn was the perfect setting. And although it was sad to say goodbye to new friends after a week together, the best part of leaving was knowing that this is only the beginning for Garance’s retreats with Atelier Doré, and there will be plenty more to come (next stop, Hawaii). If you have any interest in sharing in wonderfully inspiring moments with wonderful people, keep an eye on the Atelier Doré Facebook page for details of upcoming retreats.

And while in Marrakech…

Eat: La Famille (with their beautiful secret garden and daily-changing vegetarian menu); Café Des Épices (for their pear and chicken tagine); and Nomad (for their vegetarian plate).

Shop: LRNCE and Marrakshi Life (whose showrooms are both located outside in the industrial quarter); Bloom for gorgeous handmade bags by French woman, Nadege Arnaud (in the épices square); and La Famille for handmade jewelry by French owner, Stéphanie Giribone. 

Do: Venture out to the Beldi Country Club for a long lunch, or even further into the Atlas Mountains for lunch (and spectacular views) at Kasbah Bab Ourika.

Spa: Treat yourself to the most incredible hamman experience of your life at the lavish Royal Mansour Spa.

Sleep: El Fenn, obviously.

After 8 days of touring around the beautiful Balearic Island of Mallorca, we spent our final night in the island’s heart, Palma de Mallorca. It was here that we got to experience Palma’s relatively new, and very beautiful boutique Hotel Sant Francesc - a Kiwi Collection property. 

We arrived at Hotel Sant Francesc feeling flustered. First of all my navigating companion had accidentally entered the wrong hotel name into our GPS and we had ended up at “Hotel San Francisco” instead. Driving past big cheesy-looking resorts and even bigger and more cheesy-looking German beer halls, we immediately knew we were in the wrong place. We later learned this area was called Playa de Palma (one to avoid!).

Once we realised our mistake we then made our way back to the old town of Palma but got ourselves terribly confused trying to navigate its tiny streets - most of which had big “do no enter” signs (with video security cameras attached) advising that only authorized vehicles were allowed to enter. After more than half an hour of circling around and around town, we finally decided that the only way to reach the hotel was to enter one of the streets and just risk it, which we did, but when we finally pulled up at Hotel Sant Francesc (the right one) we were a collectively-stressed mess! Luckily the kindest ever doorman greeted us - Unai, you are a superstar! Unai told us there was nothing at all to worry about, that the hotel would report our number plate to the police to advise them that we were hotel guests and we would not get a fine. He then insisted on taking our car, parking it and arranging for our luggage to be taken to our room. It was such an easy, friendly and calming welcome. Uni was an absolute legend. We knew instantly we were at the right place this time.

At Hotel Sant Francesc, the same level of friendliness and generous hospitality carried through to all of the staff we met. Miguel Garcia Feliz, the ever-so-charming General Manager, spent time running us through the features of the hotel, as did Diana. A former Mallorcan mansion from 1860, the hotel went a meticulous restoration and is now full of beautiful iron-clad windows and a luscious pale-green color palette (my current color obsession) on the walls - so calming and restorative. There is a gorgeous little rooftop terrace that offers beautiful views over Basilica de Sant Francesc and out over the city rooftops. Breakfast is really generous and is served in a cosy restaurant downstairs. We stayed in the Sant Francesc Suite, adorned with ceiling frescoes throughout, and it was one of the most grand and spacious rooms I have ever seen - looking out over the Basilica de Sant Francesc, it was a total treat.

We were able to walk everywhere very easily from the hotel - it made for the perfect base for our short 24 hour Palma rendesvous. I would highly recommend staying here on your next trip to the island.

And although we only had 24 hours in the city, these were a few of our favorite things:

Coffee at La Molienda - great coffee and delicious breakfasts (local, organic, seasonal produce) and outdoor seating.

Market goods at Santa Catalina - we loved this old-school food hall.

Check out the contemporary art installation of Miquel Barceló in the Cathedral of Santa Maria de Palma.

A contemporary art installation housed within a Gothic cathedral. 

Shop at local designer stores Cortana, Sybilla, Masscob la Coruna.

Drink vermouth and eat tapas at La Rosa Vermutería (you can't book, so get there early).

It had been years since my last visit to Rome. Having spent a lot of time romping around its magical streets (the Trastevere ones were always my favourite) in my 20s, it was probably about 10 years since my last visit. The beauty of Rome though is that it doesn't change, and that’s why I love it so much. It’s as if time stands still here. No matter how much time goes by, the beauty and the history of the Renaissance buildings and the historic monuments and the beautiful parks at every turn still blow you away every time - and that old-fashioned way of life, it just keeps on rolling by. I love getting lost in its streets, stumbling across random corners of wonder. I love the aperitivo culture and the way Romans spill on to the streets by 5pm, Campari in hand. It’s the best. And on top of that, there are so many beautifully hidden and magical places to stay.

We were fortunate this time to spend a night at the historic Villa Spalletti Trivelli, a Kiwi Collection property. An incredibly discreet, neo-classical mansion tucked away in a beautiful square just steps from the Piazza del Quirinale and near the Trevi Fountain. Oozing old world elegance, this stunning villa has been in the same family for five generations and was beautifully restored by Count Gian Giacomo Spalletti Trivelli and his wife, Susanna. The story of the house and its inhabitants over the years is one of much magic and intrigue; a long history and one with ties to the royal family and monarchy. I was lucky enough to meet with Maria Merra, the General Manager, who has been with the villa since its inception. With only 12 rooms this is an intimate and opulent place to stay. While all rooms are different, our recommendation would be to request one of the colorful rooms at the front of the house (overlooking the Quirinale Palace). We stayed in a suite, which while very spacious and lovely, is outside the main villa building and is much more modern in design.

In the grand drawing room (my favourite room of all) with its rich fabrics, antique furniture and art, and parquetry floors, a complimentary aperitivo is served every evening from 5pm. Guests can help themselves to any of the spirits and make their own cocktails. Delicious snacks are provided as well. The villa does not have a restaurant as such, but a sumptuous breakfast is prepared each morning and if you are wanting to stay in for lunch or dinner you can let the kitchen staff know and they will prepare something to order. There is an exceptional feeling of warmth and comfort here; a feeling of home. The villa also offers a stunning private garden, surrounded by some of Rome’s other most stately and beautiful buildings, and a rooftop terrace as well. Up on the roof there are four jacuzzis for guests to enjoy, and even one that is cornered off and can be booked for private use- they will even arrange champagne to be delivered there if you desire. Another really thoughtful touch is the wine tasting on Friday evenings from the owner’s very own vineyard, Pomario. Owned by the Counts Spalletti Trivelli, Pomario winery is located near Perugia in the municipality of Piegaro, not far from Monteleone di Orvieto on the border of Umbria and Tuscany. They make olive oil and organic wines, and on Friday evenings at the villa they share these with guests.

There is also a wellness centre in the basement where guests can enjoy complimentary use of a spectacular hamman, and a beautiful Italian garden.

It is a perfectly private and intimate retreat and one I would highly recommend for escaping the hustle of Rome.

If you are looking for something perhaps even more iconic, check out another of of the Kiwi Collection’s beautiful hotels, the classic Hotel de Russie. Located on Via Del Babuino, right by the Spanish Steps, and with a beautiful view over Piazza del Popolo and its obelisk, Hotel de Russie is renowned for having one of the most incredible secret gardens in Rome. With its cream-coloured facade and with pale-blue shutters, the exterior of the hotel is just as inviting as the interior. The rooms are elegant and luxurious, with ornate touches (think lots of Italian marble in the bathrooms etc). We recommend booking one of their Junior Suites (ask for the corner suite that overlooks the Piazza del Popolo). We loved how there was a ‘make your own martini’ kit waiting for us in the room as a little welcome - a super nice touch.

The Stravinskii Bar, located in the hotel courtyard, is renowned as being one of the ‘places to be seen’ in Rome. They serve excellent coffee, great cocktails and have an impressive wine list as well. Breakfast is served in the secret garden, under a sea of beautiful umbrellas, making for an incredible spot to start your morning with a delicious Italian breakfast. 

We spent some time with the hotel’s delightful Marketing Manager, Flavia Campailla, who showed us around the property. If you have an open and endless budget (I’m talking a 10,000 EUR/night kind of budget!!!!), there is always the penthouse Nijinsky Suite. Flavia showed me through this suite and around its 239-square-metre rooftop terrace - overlooking the Villa Borghese gardens, the hotel’s own secret garden, the Pincio, and the rooftops of the Eternal City. A location hard to beat. The interiors have all been done by the Hon. Olga Polizzi, part of the Rocco Forte Hotel family (Lord Forte's daughter and the sister of Sir Rocco Forte) - colourful and lavish. The marble and mosaic bathroom with separate shower and steam bath is one of the most impressive bathrooms I have seen so far. If you can afford to splurge on this suite (sadly it is definitely out of my own budget!!!) you also receive a personalised experience of your choice: a three-hour walking tour of Rome; a two-hour tour of the city’s boutiques with a personal shopper; a Roman street food tour for up to 3 people; a cooking lesson in the privacy of your suite for up to 3 people; a 50-minute restoring body massage for 2 people; or an in-suite blow dry for her and a shaving service at the Acqua di Parma Barbershop for him! Alternatively, the hotel can personalise your suite with your favourite things, such as flowers, fragrances and much more!!! Luxury service at its finest.

No matter where you stay, this is a truly impressive Italian accommodation experience. We loved being greeted by the super friendly, charming (and very tall!!) doorman, Christian, each morning. We really loved the hotel’s secret garden and sitting having breakfast under the shade of all its greenery. And we especially loved the hotel’s close proximity to my favorite coffee bar in Rome - Rosati. Only 2mins walk, across the Piazza del Popolo, Rosati is a sophisticated Roman coffee bar with lots of old wooden decor and marble floors, that serves exceptional coffee and croissants. Try the tiramisu as well.

It’s beautiful here.

[soundtrack. gypsy woman]

It was only one day, but what a day it was!

My friend Cols flew in as a surprise from Paris and together we took a car from Cernobbio to Tremezzo (just 30 mins) to spend the day as guests at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the banks of Lake Como. 

Our driver - a charming Italian man named Alberto - took great joy in telling us stories of those he had driven before us (including George Clooney, twice). He even pointed out Clooney's villa, speaking exceptionally highly of the handsome actor who now calls Lake Como home (or, one of his homes I should say).

As we arrived at the hotel, looking up, we were blown away by its size and scale. The Grand Hotel Tremezzo, with its floating pool on the lake, is a grand and ornate mansion which was once the summer playground for wealthy Lombard Aristocrats.

With beautifully lush and hydrangea-filled gardens, there is another pool tucked away - on its garden terrace - and one inside the luxurious spa as well. Plenty of swimming options!

We were fortunate enough to experience a luxurious spa treatment at the T Spa with its wooden sauna with windows looking out over the lake. 

The highlight though was lunch down at T Beach (a private 'beach' on the edge of the lake) by the floating pool. With Campari Spritzs in hand, we ate fresh seafood and caprese salad and watched the life on the lake go by. There are five restaurant and bar options at the hotel, but this one seems to be the most informal. It is said that Greta Garbo used to come and dine in the more fancy and romantic “La Terrazza” restaurant, renowned as being one of the most beautiful dining options on Lake Como.

Like I said, we only had the day...but it really is beautiful here (and if budget allows, I think it's worth the extra splurge).

*Check out our Cernobbio guide for more of our favourite places on the lake.

[soundtrack. Far L'Amore]

Lake Como has always held a special place in my heart. I have always been totally captivated by the light and the magic of the lake. It really is nothing short of a fairytale. Sparkling water, colourful little villages dotted throughout the mountains, and that beautiful light. The quiet and calm of the dawn, and the beauty of the magic hour when the sun starts to settle over the lake. It is a special place.

And I have forever had a love affair with the very fancy, Villa d'Este. Not that I have ever stayed there, but I have always loved wandering down that long, grandioso driveway alongside the lake - past the endless hydrangeas - into the grounds of the villa. Nothing screams old-school Italy to me, old-school Lake Como, more than this luxury hotel (with sixteen-century origins, and operating as a luxury hotel since 1873). I love to indulge in my €20 Campari Spritz by the water's edge and relish in the magic of this century-old gem. The people watching is next-level (you will no doubt spot a Russian wedding or two), and the waiters are like something out of an old-school Italian film. It's beautiful here. The swimming pool also is one for the books!

BUT in saying all of that, the most magical discovery in Cernobbio for me was last summer...when I happened somehow to randomly stumble across the most divine little bnb. Villa Derriere - run by a gorgeous young couple, Giorgia and Davide - is literally just seconds away from Villa d'Este. Perfectly positioned and hidden in a quiet garden off the main street, this ivy-covered villa houses just two bedroom suites. It is here in the magic of the pretty garden (complete with bocce ball ground, and chickens) that Giorgia and Davide offer the most generous and warm hospitality. 

Davide - an ex-soccer player - is mostly in charge of food. Davide bakes fresh sourdough bread each day. He cooks everything from scratch using fruit and vegetables from their very own garden (which is located just on the other side of the lake in a little town called Nesso). He is gentle and kind. His dogs are his life. And so are his chickens. And so, of course, is Giorgia. The kitchen is full of love and warmth. Everything that comes out of there has been made with so much care. Breakfasts are incredible. Giorgia has generally made a fresh batch of cookies, or perhaps even a delicious chocolate cake, and together they serve up a whole medley of pretty little breakfast dishes - from cake and cookies, to fresh bread, eggs, fruits, yoghurt, homemade muesli, and more. It is like nothing I have ever seen at a bnb before. This is something very, very special.

If you are lucky, Giorgia and Davide might even take you to their farm one evening. Located on a very steep block of land that hugs the edge of the lake, this incredible property is home to a lush and large veggie garden and plenty of fruit trees. There is also a wood-fired pizza oven, and Giorgia and Davide have been known to host some amazing pizza parties down here. Not only that, there is a little row-boat and a perfectly positioned diving platform from which to launch yourself into the lake. The water is fresh and cold. And deep. Very deep. It is an incredible place to swim.

Back in Cernobbio, we love the tiny little town for its coffee shops, its hat store, and its gelato. We generally eat most meals at the villa (Giorgia and Davide provide breakfast, but are also happy to cater for dinner as well if you would like to book it in). When we are there, we never really want to leave.

If you are looking for somewhere else to dine however, I can highly recommend a gorgeous family-run restaurant tucked away high in the mountain. Hidden underneath a canopy of wisteria, the pretty terrace of Trattoria del Glicine is the perfect place for a long lunch with friends. The homemade pastas are amazing, as is the wine. As is everything in fact. I love it here. 

Just get back down the hill in time for aperitivo at Villa d'Este (save room for a couple of Spritzs and some olives), and then dinner back at "home". It's a magical little town and one you would be crazy to miss.

It's beautiful here.

[lisbon soundtrack. montana]

Oh, Lisbon. You have such a grip on my heart. A city so full of charm and lovely people. The locals here are warm and friendly, so proud of where they come from. And I don’t blame them. Portugal has catapulted to the top of my favorite places right now. In fact, it has been there awhile. I was last here in 2014 for one of my best friend’s weddings on the Algarve. It was then that my love for Lisbon really deepened. I felt so at home and really connected with its energy. An inspiring creative community - so much going on in design, art, architecture - but all in this really refreshing, humble way with no ego. No attitude. Just good people doing really good, interesting things. Not only is it one of Europe’s biggest start-up hubs, but Portugal was also ranked by Forbes as one of the most affordable places to travel this year. The wine is cheaper than water (true story) and when I am here I tend to drink a lot of the stuff! The Vinho Verde (or green wine), my absolute favourite. There is a cultural and artistic richness in Lisbon. An addictive buzz. Its a big city, yes, but one that feels more like a village. Known as the city of the seven hills, you can pretty much get everywhere on foot (if you are willing to battle a few hills of course) with endless winding cobblestoned streets to explore. I never get far though without stopping a million times over to snap the stunning azulejos (tiles) that cover the walls of churches and decrepit buildings, everywhere you look. It is such a beautiful town. The light is what gets me as well. Such a beautiful, magical light. Dawn, when the streets are quiet…and dusk, when the streets are alive and buzzing with locals and tourists alike often down by the water to watch the sun go down over Cristo and the rest of the town. You will hear the sound of fado wafting through the streets. Portugal really does have it all. A spectacular coastline, dreamy beaches, delicious local wine, great good (I basically turn into a Portuguese bread and cheese whenever I am here, oh and a sardine), charming hilltop towns, diverse landscapes, and some of the friendliest people I have ever met. There is so much goodness to be found. Here, I update you with some of favorites (including some old favorites that were featured in the guide I published here in 2014)…

First things first, start the day with a pastel de nat (Portuguese tart) and a bica (espresso).

For coffee.

Wish Coffee House: at the LX Factory site (an abandoned factory site turned creative hub), serving excellent espresso (by Berlin’s Five Elephant), smoothies and snacks.

Heim Cafe: for coffee and breakfast.

Fabrica Coffee Roasters: for excellent third wave coffee (they roast their own beans). A few locations around town.

Hello, Kristof: in Bairro Alto, a coffee and magazine café with a Scandinavian aesthetic. Beans are roasted locally at Academica Do Café.

The Mill: an Australian/Portuguese cafe doing great espresso drinks (they also roast their own beans as well).

Bettina & Niccolò Corallo: located on a street overlooking the Jardín Botánico de la Universidad de Lisboa, also the site of a weekly farmers' market, in Lisbon's Príncipe Real, Bettina and her son Niccolò run this chocolate-focused café.

Copenhagen Coffee Lab - for seriously good coffee in a minimalist Scando setting. 

To eat.

If you haven't yet, be sure to try a local “bifana" (pork loin in a bread roll), Delicious. 

Jose Avillez: basically when it comes to eating in Lisbon if you can remember the name “Jose Avillez” you will be doing fine. Any or all of this young, inspiring chef’s city restaurants are sure to impress. Back in 2014, Cantinho do Avillez had only recently opened and was the food highlight of our trip. Belcanto (now with two Michelin stars - the first Portuguese chef to be given this honour) was his first though and was listed in Restaurant magazine’s “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List” in 2015. Cafe Lisboa (inside the São Carlos National Theatre) and Pizzaria Lisboa are great as well (and have stunning interiors).

Mercado da Ribeira (avenida 24 de julho): an awesome food destination. It opened just a few months before we were there in 2014, and it is still going strong. In fact, we noticed even more food stalls have popped up on our most recent visit in June. Some of our favorite things to lookout for include the tartar from Tartar-ia, the octopus salad from Henrique sa Pessoa, burgers by Honorato, sashimi by Confraria, the tuna sandwich on carob bread (trust me) from SeaMe, and of course, Lisbon’s best gelato from Santini (the coconut flavor is the bomb, and the pineapple too). Check out the wines by Esporao. I love my Vinho Verde (green wine) and you will find a couple of great ones here. If you are wanting some fun little gifts to take home, grab some retro-packaged tins of sardines from the Conserveira de Lisboa. And check out our favorite stand of all – the plants at O Meu Amore e Verde. It’s beautiful there.

Largo ao Tacho: for great smaller share dishes (Portuguese).

Dinner at Os Gazeteiros: a tiny French and local inspired restaurant (with a set menu).

Restaurante Santo Antonio de Alfama: for typical Portuguese food from the best restaurant in Alfama.

For Japanese (and the best sushi in LIsbon) check out Go-Juu - next door to the Fundacao Gulbenkian.

Linha D’Agua - right by the Parque Eduardo VII. A beautiful terrace with delicious food.

For vegetarian, check out: PSI - Resaurante Vegetariano, and Nicolau Lisboa & Co for “green food”.

For seafood: Cervejaria Ramiro: for the city’s absolute best. Hands down. This is a Lisbon institution – loved by tourists and locals alike. Simple, but the best.

For traditional Portuguese, check out:

Das Flores

Cevejaria Nunes

Pap’açorda: for dinner. This is a Lisbon institution. What was once the ‘it’ place for the media crowd and celebrities around town, Pap’açorda’s décor is simple and understated, and the food is amazing.

For date night:

Bonsai

Kanazawa

For fun with friends:

Gazeteiros

Tágide Wine and Tapas Bar: fun, chilled and great food…always. Located in Chiado, this is a beautiful tapas bar serving excellent small plates and delicious Portuguese wines. Be sure to try the custard tarts (served warm with cinnamon ice cream). A little more pricey, but worth it.

For Pastel de Nata:

Manteigaria

To drink.

Park: this bar on top of a parking garage is the perfect place for a sundowner. Amazing views over Bairro Alto and the river, there are always good tunes, good vibes and a cosy atmosphere on its leafy rooftop terrace. Fun after dinner as well. 

The Terrace at Hotel do Bairro Alto: for some of the best views in town. Perfect for a light lunch or a pre-dinner drink. Located between Chiado and Bairro Alto.

Pensao do Amor: an old brothel-turned-cocktail bar. This bar feels like a home, with lots of different little rooms and dark and cosy furniture. It’s the perfect place for an afternoon dinner drink. Live music sometimes. Always busy. Good vibes. 

O Bom o Mau e o Vilao: just a few doors down from Pensao do Amor, this is the obvious place to go either before or after a drink there. 

Late-night dancing and good times at LUX and/or Brownie.

Topo Bar

Another ultra-cool rooftop space opens in Lisbon. This time in Martim Moniz with extraordinary views of Lisbon, from São Jorge Castle and Mouraria, to the viewpoints of Graça and Senhora do Mont

To shop.

Louie Louie - an awesome little record store (which started in Porto) with an in-house espresso bar.

Fashion: check out local designers “La Paz” and “Felipe Oliveira Baptista”.

Principe Real neighbourhood has many cute stores, in particular: 

Em Nome da Rosa: for flowers

Isabel Lopes Da Silva: antique store with amazing jewellery (expensive but amazing)

Principe Real Enxovais: for house linen

Consi.go: a lovely little organic store in Estrela.

Sistema Solar: a quiet, independent bookstore in Chiado specializing in art books.

Under the Cover: books and magazines about art, architecture, design, fashion, travel and lifestyle.

Sardines from the Conserveira de Lisboa: with a store in Baixa (Rua dos Bacalhoeiros), and one at the Mercado da Ribeira, come here the most beautifully vintage-packaged tins or sardines. A staple on any Lisbon shopping list, they have been around since 1930s.

Chocolate from ARCÁDIA (Largo Trindade Coelho, 11): in Bairro Alto, this is Portugal’s most famous chocolate brand, created in the city of Porto in 1933. We love the wrapping as much as we love the taste of the chocolate itself. Reminiscent of our favorite Brooklyn-based chocolatier – Mast Brothers. Try the Port wine flavor.

Principe Real - garden and shopping square (at one of the highest points of the city):

Officina LIsboa - for shoes produced exclusively in portugal

Embaixada - concept store in a stunning old building 

Cevicheria - one of lisbon’s hottest restaurants right now serving delicious ceviche

Yoyo Objects - design store - mainly furniture and lighting - from portuguese designers

Chocolateria Equador - 100% handmade chocolate saved in beautifully-designed pakcaging inspired by the 40s and 50s

Bairro Alto - neighboughood - full of traditional shops, restaurants and bars - known for its typical portuguese lifestyle during he day and bohemian atmosphere by night.

Praca Luis de Camoes - a very iconic square - honoring the famous Portuguese writer and poet Luis Vaz de Camoes - a busy meeting point to the historic area. Home to the famous coffee and pastry shop, A Brasilleira, where portuguese writer Fernando Pessoa used to go frequently. 

Also - Loja do Burel - for traditional portuguese fabrics

Livraria Bertrand - considered the oldest bookstore in the world. bertrand is portuguese and opened in 1732.

A Vida Portuguesa - traditional and iconic products of all kind from portugal - gret presents and original souvenirs.

Near Rossio (Praca D. Pedro IV) - monument square - you will find Chapelaria Azevedo Rua - a century-old hat shop like no other - with bows, top hats, caps, berets and more.

Confeitaria Nacional - pastry shop and tea house - one of the most ancient and exquisite pastry shops in Lisbon - perfect for afternoon tea.

To do.

MAAT: Musuem of Art, Architecture and Technology. Definitely worth a visit.

LX Factory: an old industrial site recently converted into a creative hub full of galleries, cafes, bookstores, boutiques etc. Shop here, eat here, hang here.

EDP: the Electricity Museum. I saw an awesome exhibition here in 2014 by Portugal’s most famed street artist, Vhils. (who carves his art out of bricks and walls). Check out what else is showing though, as the building alone is impressive and worth checking out. And keep an eye out for Vhils.’ work on random street corners. One of our favorite pieces can be found on a large wall by the Port.

For hair: check out Griffe Hair Style. An amazing hair salon in Chiado. Owner Helena Vaz Pereira, works for some of the Portuguese fashion houses. For colour ask for Sofia, she is the best.

For a day spa experience: check out the Ritz. Alternatively, the Palacio Estoril Hotel in Estoril is also good. 

For gallereis, check out:

Galeria Cristina Guerra

Galeria Francisco Fino 

Galeria Murias Centeno

Galeria Pedro Cera 

Galeria Vera Cortes 

Galeria Madragoa

Arco da Rua Augusta - for its beautiful Triumph Arch and views over Tagus River and all the Baixa Pombalina.

Alfama - tradtional neighborhood - the striking portuguese neighbourhood of Fado. The Igreja De Sao Miguel (Alfama’s church) - a beautiful and unique church in the heart of Alfama

Jardim Botanico: for a beautiful botanical garden to sit or wander.

Parque Eduardo VII: a beautiful park to walk around - with great views over the Avenida de Liberdade.

Avenida de Liberdade: one of the most important avenues in lisbon - beautiful buildings filled with beautiful shops.

Praca do Marques de Pombal: monumental square. an iconic place in lisbon, honoring Marques de Pombal, the monarch figure behind the city reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. the urban and architectural style present downtown was made by his vision, and this square unifies the main avenue and the streets of the area.

Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara: an amazing viewpoint, located in the garden of the same name, offering beautiful panoramic views of the city of Lisbon. 

Wander around some of our favorite neighborhoods…

- Belem (Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, Torre de Belem, Padrao dos Descobrimentos, Centro Cultural de Belem (contemporary art museum). 

- Principe Real/Bairro Alto: walk down Rua da Escola Politecnica, then Rua D.Pedro V. When you're coming down the hill stop on the left at the 'miradouro' to see the views of the city and have a coffee. There are several 'miradouros' (lookouts) spread around town with spectacular views and cute little cafes and tables outside. Our favorite one (in Alfama) is Miradouro de Santa Luzia, which is located halfway up the hill, at the top of Rua de Augusto Rosa. If not for the view itself, but for the stunning bougainvillea overhead and the gorgeous setting. Also keep a look out for a little hidden oasis on Rua D.Pedro V Nº56-D – the Lost In café.

- Alfama: a very charming, very old part of town (and our favorite). Azulejos (the colored tiles) at every turn. Great photo opportunities.

Chiado/Baixa: perfect to wander around and explore.

Fundacao Calouste - museum and gardens. Come here for the art museum or just the stunning gardens themselves (designed by architect Goncalo Ribeiro Telles). A lovely spot for a walk.

Take the number 28 tram: touristy, but a great little trip.

Outside of Lisbon…

Visit Sintra: one of the most beautiful and poetic places in the world. You will feel as if you are part of a magic fairytale here. Wander around, grab a coffee, do a bit of shopping, take plenty of photos. A few hours here is enough.

Go to the beach in Guincho. Have seafood for lunch at Mar do Inferno. Or drive a little further north to have lunch in Azenhas do Mar - a little cliffside town overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Amazing seafood and stunning views. It’s beautiful here.  

To sleep.

The most delightful surprise of my recent trip to Lisbon, Santa Clara 1728 has quickly become my favourite place to stay in this magical town. A secret hidden gem in a quiet corner of the city. I had the greatest pleasure of meeting owner João Rodrigues on my visit, as well as his lovely wife Andrea. A beautiful family and an incredible inspiration. I also had the opportunity to sit down with Marta Flourenco - a delightful architect who works with João - to find out more about the ‘Silent Living’ project she has been brought in to run. Silent Living was born out of a need to find a language between all of João’s (and Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateu) projects - a way to understand what they all have in common to then be able to reflect this in new projects going forward as well. The beauty João and Manuel’s work is that it goes far beyond just the architecture itself - it is not just the architecture that speaks to you - it is the people, the environment, the simplicity, and the universal idea of home - people come to their places and are reminded of home; a feeling created by the senses. “The touch in architecture” for example, much more than just the drawing element. All of João’s projects have a strong sensory power that influencers the guests. Another of his properties, Casas Na Areia for example, with its sand on the floor makes you feel instantly relaxed - the sand slows you down. On entering Santa Clara you feel a difference in the acoustics, it is so quiet. You notice the connection with the open kitchen - and this feeling must be strong - the smell of fresh bread baking, or a cake - it helps remind guests of home. The meat comes from their farm, Casa no Tempo, and they use only local supplies. A common goal of keeping the experience as connected to nature as possible. Joao forever tries to respect and be faithful to nature wherever possible -paying homage to all things local and original. Casas na Areia for example was inspired by local fisherman houses, acting as a memory of an architype. Cabanas no Rio honours the simplicity of the fisherman’s life, connecting you 100% with the surroundings. Casa no Tempo is a modern interpretation of the traditional Alentejo-style house. The 18th century Santa Clara building was acquired by João back in 2012 - it was a delapidated/abandoned family house and Joao was determinded to remain faithful to the home’s heritage. He wanted to build another family house but had no intention of actually living there himself. That changed however and now João, Andrea and their four children live on the top floor. It is a unique and beautiful project. The interiors are stunning, simple. Local materials are used - in the stone (Lioz stone from Sintra), in the wooden floors, in the wardrobes (same finish as walls/ceiling - to unify), and the baths/basins which were sculpted from stone - the floor tile in the shower is just one tile (the tiler didn't want to do it, but Joao convinced him and he was so happy with the result). Each object/every detail has a story. This is design that inspires, in every sense. These ‘Silent Living’ projects really touch the maker, the owner and the guest. It is incredibly beautiful here.

For boutique budget…try The Independente. Affirming Portugal’s reputation as having the best budget accommodation in Europe, these neighboring late-19th-century mansions, in a premium location on the border of the Bairro Alto & Principe Real districts, were stylishly converted in 2011. With views over the Tagus River, this lovely hotel is full of classical features – big shuttered windows, high ceilings, vintage furniture, stained-glass windows, floors laid with traditional Portuguese Azelujos, and wrought-iron balconies. Choose from a private suite or dorm (where the bunk beds are custom-made from chipboard). We stayed in one of the private suites, which was colorful, bright and spacious. Breakfast is served each morning on the sunny rooftop terrace, with fabulous views over the city. You will no doubt meet Lurdes – the happiest of happy characters who runs the kitchen. An amazing leading light who made our time at the Independente all the more memorable. There is also a stylish in-house restaurant on the ground floor – Decadente – with a modern Portuguese menu, cosy atmosphere and beautiful outdoor courtyard. 

For high-end historical luxury that you will be hard-pressed to find anywhere else …try the Palacio Belmonte, a 15th century palace-turned-guest house. Tucked away in the streets of Alfama, right up by the Castelo de São Jorge (atop the highest hill in Lisbon), this enchanted Palace-style accommodation is run by charismatic Frenchman Frédéric Coustols (an artist and landscape collector) and his adorable (5th) wife, Maria. Built in 1449, this is the most antique building in all of Portugal. Filled with over 38000 18th century Portuguese tiles (the blue of which adds to a complete sense of calm, stillness and ventilation), Roman foundations, seventh-century Moorish brick ceilings, antique furniture, spectacular reading and dining areas, private rooftop terraces, a swimming pool and spectacular garden, and an open bar from 5pm each evening…this is the most exquisite urban oasis, hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon city life below.

We were fortunate enough to enjoy a sunny breakfast with Frédéric on the terrace one morning, to hear how his connection with the Palace came about. It was on a visit to Lisbon many years ago that Frédéric saw the house and with intrigue, asked about it at the hotel he was staying. The very next day, without even going inside, he made an offer to buy it. A successful sale (he paid over 24million euro), it was not until 6 months later that he paid his first visit to the house. Counting 365 windows at that time, he suddenly thought “this is a little bigger than I expected” – he tells us, with a cheeky smile.

Living in France at the time, Frédéric went to the city hall in Lisbon to ask if the property could be divided up, where he was asked “why don’t you do a hôtel de charme?”. And it was on this whim, that he decided he would. When asked if he had experience as a hotelier, he chuckles again and tells us “no, we didn’t know anything about that”!

We were lucky enough to sleep in the 160m2 palace suite, which has a winter garden and terrace, on top of a Muslim tower of the 8th century. With views over the Alfama district out to the water, sleeping within the Palace walls was like stepping back in time. 

The Palace has had many lives – it is the only building that survived ‘The Great Lisbon Earthquake’ of 1755 – and it is because of this that Frederic has such a passion for sustainability. As he told us “houses today can’t have this many different lives’. He recently spoke at a sustainability conference in Granada around tourism, and the need to protect historical districts to find a balance between providing tourists a special experience, while protecting the city at the same time. 

With just 10 suites, it is not hard to see why 70% of guests are returning guests. This is a very, very special place, with Frédéric and Maria adding miles to that charm. As Frédéric once said, "I have traveled the world for fifteen years,". "Belmonte represents every luxury I didn't find. Principally peace. And beauty." It’s so beautiful here.

Pestana Palace: another goodie by my friends at Kiwi Collection – the world’s largest independent collection of luxury hotels - the location of this spectacularly restored 19th-century palace was one of the highlights for me. Set amongst some incredibly beautiful gardens the hotel is tucked away in a quiet residential corner of Lisbon near the River Tagus. Not only a hotel, the Pestana Palace is also one of Portugal’s National Monuments. The old palace building itself is quiet incredible. I spent an hour wandering through the building marveling at all the intricacies of the design and the opulent furniture and artwork. Unfortunately the hotel rooms are not in this old palace building but rather in a couple of large new accommodation wings that were built in more recent times. The hotel is definitely on the bigger side, so it you are looking for more of a boutique experience I would suggest booking Santa Clara or Palacio Belmonte instead, but if you prefer a hotel with a lot of space and many facilities (pool, day spa etc) than perhaps this is the one for you. Another highlight was the Pestana Palace’s close proximity to the LX Factory (where I would walk to each morning for my coffee from Wish House). And the breakfasts! They were incredible - a great selection and a stunning palace room from which to enjoy it.

[soundtrack. this must be the place]

It was back in ’95 as a young and green 15-year old that I first went to Japan. I was on a 3-month student exchange to a school in Nagoya. It was my first solo overseas trip and I loved every second. I was super lucky to be welcomed into the home of a very kind local family, which made the living-away-from-home thing a whole lot easier. I quickly fell in love with the feeling of being well outside my comfort zone. I was excited and intrigued by this new culture, their language and their traditions. It was incredible. And I guess it set the tone for all my travels today.

My recent trip to Japan in March was just a quickie but we managed to cover off a couple of days in Tokyo (obviously never enough time), the snowy-mountain town of Hakuba, the art island of Naoshima in the south, and then the nature-driven beauty of the Ise-Shima National Park to stay at the outrageously beautiful Amanemu.

With only a couple of days to bop around Tokyo, we managed to find some awesome little spots but also missed out on a few as we ran out of time. A big shout out to my friend Jac at The Broadplace who passed on so many of her awesome recos. Jac, and her partner Arran, have curated the most wonderful Tokyo exploration manual - a perfectly put together guide on how best to spend some lovely days in this energetic and mesmerizing city - if you can get your hands on a copy, I would strongly suggest you do!

So, here are a few of our favourite things:

To caffeinate.

Little Nap: off the beaten track a little, right near Yoyogi Park, this was our favourite coffee find of all.

Cafe Kitsune: a cute coffee shop corner down a little laneway in Aoyama, with a charming bamboo courtyard and staff that dress in matching Kitsune sweaters. Coffee and a few tiny snacks only. Don't come hungry! Extra points for Aesop Skincare in the tiny bathroom.

Fuglen: where Scandinavia meets Shibuya (via Oslo). We love this cosy little spot.

Bear Pond Espresso: this is one worth hunting down.

Cobi Bloom and Branch: a cute spot in Aoyama with more than just coffee - ceramics, clothes and more.

Blue Bottle: with quite a few locations around town, we like this one in Aoyama.

Shozo Coffee: the prettiest one of all (very photo-friendly).

Saturdays: for a coffee with your NYC-style clothes shop.

Little Cloud Coffee: inside the Visvim store in Shibuya.

Sidewalk Stand in Nakameguro for their affogato.

(So many more…but that should be enough to get you started…).

To eat.

There are endless awesome eating options in Tokyo, obviously. But (in our short couple of days in the city) we absolutely loved some of these…

Shimada: the standing restaurant. No seats, you just stand at the counter. No English menu. Just trust what they recommend. The food is incredible.

Butagumi: for the best tonkatsu in Tokyo. A great lunch option.

Kaoriya: for lunch or dinner in Ebisu. All the noodles here are based on buckwheat, and come served on ginormous wooden trays. incredible. As recommended (again) by Jac from The Broadplace. So good.

Brown Rice Cafe: for an organic and healthy lunch.

Higashiya: a must for afternoon tea.

Yakitori bars: we recommend trying Birdland.

Mikawazezankyo: for excellent tempura (a little off the beaten track). 

Sue Zen: as recommended by Julia Ostro.

Lotus Bakery in Nakameguro: for their charcoal croissants.

Gogyo Ramen: order the kagashi, or burnt ramen.

Oshito in Azabujuban: for their delicious vegan food and individual tatami mat rooms. 

Den in Jimbocho for Kaiseki with a modern twist.

To drink.

AMAN Tokyo: for a drink at sunset (overlooking Mount Fuji) from the 41st floor

Park Hyatt: for that real-deal “Lost in Translation” moment.

Gen Yamamoto: for their cocktail degustation.

Bar High Five: for more old-school cocktails

Star Bar: same

Codename Mixology: for more cocktails

Bar Ishinohana

Shonzui wine bar: for their focus on natural wines

Zoetrope: for whisky

Ne Plus Ultra: for whisky

To shop.

Dover Street Market

Aoyama Growers Markets - on weekends only.

Bonjour Records in Daikanyama.

Kapital

Yaeca Apartment

Yaeca Home

To explore.

National art centre: we loved the current Yayoi Kusama: My Eternal Soul exhibition.

Nezu Museum Garden for a peaceful place to rest

Miyazaki: if you’re into movies/cartoons

Check out the amazing depachika (or food halls) in the basements of department stores - Takashimaya is our favourite

Yoyogi Park on a Sunday afternoon

Commune in Aoyama

Mori Art Museum

Design Museum

Post book store

To sleep.

In my mind (if the budget allows), there are really only two places to stay in Tokyo. Both extremely luxe, but impressively understated; with some of the best service you will ever encounter anywhere in this world. They are the Park Hyatt, and the AMAN Tokyo (and both bookable via the kind folk at Kiwi Collection).

PARK HYATT Tokyo.

The Park Hyatt Tokyo may already be on your radar thanks to its starring role in the 2003 hit indie film Lost in Translation. Staring an aging actor (Bill Murray) and a neglected wife (Scarlett Johansson), this award-winning film by Sofia Coppola went on to become the best PR exercise the hotel has ever experienced. Interestingly, it took awhile though for director Sofia Coppola to get the Park Hyatt on board. Coppola was knocked back on two separate occasions before the hotel finally succumbed (when Coppola made a 3rd offer that was apparently too hard to refuse) to allowing the Coppola crew to shoot their film on site. The Coppolas offered to book out individual hotel rooms for each of the cast and crew, for an entire three week period - agreeing to shoot between midnight and 5am only - so as not to disturb other hotel guests. The film was made, and the Park Hyatt has since remained Tokyo’s most decorated hotel. Housed over the upper floors of the Kenzo Tange tower in Shinjuku, the Park Hyatt offers spectacular views out over Tokyo to Mount Fuji. The check-in process is impeccable. Guests are greeted on the ground floor (Level 2) and then escorted up to the glass-walled 41st floor where a concierge team will meet and greet you and personally accompany you to your room. It is there, once settled, that they will sit with you to go through your arrival information. Intimate and personalised, this process sets them apart from any other hotel I have visited. Rooms are large and spacious. Aesop Skincare (my favourite) lines the shelves of the bathrooms. The views are incredible. Only one interior designer and one architect were used to design the entire property, and we love its pale wood-paneled walls, the green color palette, and the way the hotel uses the communal areas to showcase local artists. The spa on the 47th floor is definitely worth a visit (with its beautiful Japanese-style onsen, well-lit beauty stations, and incredible 25m swimming pool) - some of the best spa facilities in a city hotel that I have ever seen. The bar is a knockout (and one that completes the Park Hyatt Tokyo experience). Made famous also by the film, you will enjoy breathtaking views over a light-filled Tokyo, with live music and old-school cocktails. And lastly, the food is exceptional. The breakfast selection is diverse. I opted for room service (so i could enjoy more time in the room itself) and had a healthy egg white omelette with ricotta and all sorts of greens. The staff are discreet, kind and humble. The Park Hyatt’s Shinjuku location makes it the perfect base for exploring the city, and if your budget allows, I would highly recommend this exceptional accommodation experience in Tokyo. It will wow you in ways you didn't expect.

AMAN Tokyo.

After my first night in Tokyo at the Park Hyatt, I then went on to Hakuba in the mountains for a couple of days. On my return to Tokyo a few days later, I checked into the AMAN. Wowee. This, without doubt, is the most exceptional city hotel I have ever stayed at in the world. Big call, I know, but the AMAN Tokyo is a peaceful and humble oasis in the heart of the business district (Nihonbashi), right by Tokyo station, and it will completely blow your mind. Designed by Australian architect kerry hill (responsible also for the Lalu hotel in Taiwan we stayed at last year, as well as a number of other hotel throughout Asia (incl some other AMANs), his design inspiration for AMAN Tokyo came by way of three Japanese themes - nature, light and space. On arrival, guests are greeted on the ground floor by a team of discreet, polite and friendly hotel staff before being ushered up to the 33rd floor. Here, the impressive lobby area is cleverly designed around an engawa (japanese garden) with 30m high traditional washi paper walls. Famed for its high tea, it was strawberry season when I visited (the signal that spring has begun), and so ladies gathered at the AMAN to enjoy their strawberry-themed high tea in this beautiful open space. The Italian restaurant is led by chef de cuisine, Masakazu Hiraki, who is originally from Japan but spent 17 years living in Venice, Italy. The food therefore is a reflection of this. The Fumoir cigar lounge, another impressive room, is a place where residents as well as guests can store their alcohol and cigars to come back and enjoy at anytime. The 84 minimalist rooms throughout the hotel are light-filled and full of traditional Japanese furnishings including washi paper sliding doors and a “furo” deep-soak onset bathtub. The pool, however, was the highlight for me. 33m long at 34 floors high, this incredible space - with its floor to ceiling windows - has jaw-dropping views over the Imperial Palace and out to Mt Fuji. You are provided robes, towels, goggles, water - anything at all you might need to make your swim easier and more enjoyable. We enjoyed a deeply relaxing 90min seasonal journey spa treatment with senior therapist, Mai, in an all-light and pale-wood treatment room. It was ridiculously heavenly. But probably the best bit (and the nicest surprise) was the personalized leather name tags that were already affixed to our bags on checking out. It’s the little things… An incredible accommodation experience and the hugest treat. It is so very beautiful here. 

And for something a little less pricey, but equally awesome (and more boutique-feeling), try CLASKA hotel (in the upcoming Meguro district).

[spotlight series. sean blocksidge]

[margaret river soundtrack. L$D]

Margaret River is the place you escape to when you want to surf by morning, luxuriate in rolling vineyards by day, and explore empty beaches and majestic tall-tree forests by afternoon. Top it all off with one of Western Australia’s outrageously magical sunsets and you’ll be in a serious state of bliss! An incredibly diverse region, Margaret River (only three hours south of Perth) offers the most impressive line-up of mind-blowing beaches and nature, coupled with endless wineries, breweries, local providores and producers. It’s very beautiful here.

Here are some of my favorite things found during my recent 5-day visit.

To caffeinate.

Sidekick: we vote this the best coffee in town, in a cute graffitied corner cafe on the main street.

White Elephant: we love this absolute beachfront spot early in the morning for great coffee and its (obviously) spectacular location (smackbang on Gnaraup Beach). Hard to beat.

Riversmith: the coffee is good, but its more about the setting here. A cute garage-turned-cafe/general store also on the main street in town.

To eat.

As well as the cafes mentioned above, locals flock to Margs' Bakery for delicious baked goods and sandwiches. The local fellas call it the “babery” on account of the cute girls that work behind the counter!

Goanna Gallery Cafe: kind of in the middle of nowhere, but one that was recommended to me by Carlie (the super kind owner of Townhouse Margaret River). It’s a peaceful and friendly cafe in a bush setting. Come here for a more fancy cafe lunch.

Morries: at the top end of town, the locals go nuts for this place. Check it out for dinner and one of their famous cocktails.

Mikis: my favourite meal in Margaret River (after Vasse Felix), Miki’s is hidden away in an unassuming strip mall. It is high-end Japanese food with a difference (you wont find any sushi or sashimi on the menu). It’s a must (and you must book).

Vasse Felix: by far and away the most exquisite dining experience in all of Margaret River (I think, anyway!). Unbelievably exceptional service, and an amazing menu featuring seasonal and local produce and jaw-dropping wines. There’s a reason it is one of Australia’s top 100 restaurants. Don’t miss this one.

For bread (and for anyone who knows me, you know I go a little nuts for seriously good sourdough bread…), don’t miss the wood-fired bread from either the Margaret River Woodfired outpost, or the original one up in Yallingup. Incredible sourdough, and one of the most amazing fruit breads (thanks for the tip, tiffo!) I have ever experienced to date (up there with The Bread Social in Byron - that one still wins for me though). Get there at 4pm to buy the fruit bread when it is still hot out of the oven.

For wine: you are well and truly spoilt here. The Internationally-renowned Margaret River wine region produces more than 25 per cent of Australia’s premium wines. Spend some time bopping between the wineries around Cowaramup. There are so many to choose from - whether it be the standout big guys, or the smaller, more boutique operations - it is unlikely you will be disappointed. As Sean (our guide from Margaret River Discovery Co) told us, if you choose a bottle of Margaret River wine in a bottle shop - in the $20-$40 range, you will never go wrong.

Some of my favourites:

Vasse Felix: for the setting, their incredible wines, and the amazing restaurant (as mentioned above). Book a seat on the balcony upstairs and enjoy lunch while looking over the vines. We tried emu (!!) to start…and my gnocchi for main was unbelievable.

Voyager Estate

Cape Mentelle

Fraser Gallop: we were taken here on our tour with Sean and were fortunate enough to spend time with their award-winning winemaker, Clive Otto. We were also treated to a private lunch in the vines. Its beautiful here. The chardonnay here was outstanding. 

House of Cards: for a smaller, more boutique operation.

For beer: check out our favorite local brewery, Colonial. Their outdoor setting is beautiful and their drink selection is awesome. I personally love the Bertie cider (as much for its cute packaging as for its taste).

For beaches - there are honestly endless empty and beautiful beaches in this picture-perfect corner of Western Australia. You really can’t go wrong. Some of my favorites were:

Smiths - for a swim - ridiculously lovely

Injidup (and the Injidup Natural Spa - a little difficult to find, but so worth it)

Prevelly

Gnararup

Eagle Bay Beach

Hamelin Bay

Point Piquet

Kilcarnup (4wd only)

For sunset: do what the locals do and head to Surfers Point in Prevelly. Depending what the surf is doing, you might catch kite surfers, windsurfers or just seriously gun surfers out there on one of the most awesome breaks in the world. Take some beers and grab a bite from one of the food trucks parked in the carpark nearby (the Italian wood-fired pizza truck - Salento - was my favorite - pizza as it should be). If you happen to be further up north, catch the sunset from Sugarloaf Rock before heading to Dunsborough for dinner.

To do/explore.

If you are looking for adventure, bring your camping gear and walk (all or some of) the Cape to Cape Track - a 125km walking track along the coast and one of the most diverse scenic trails on Earth. You will be blown away by the beauty of this coastline. It is magic. We were lucky enough to experience a small slice of it thanks to our guide Sean from Margaret River Discovery Co (more below). If you are visiting between September and December, you might be lucky to catch the sight of migrating humpback whales.

A helicopter flight with Scenic Helicopters. If budget and time allow, a chopper flight over the coast with Jackson (legend) from Scenic Helicopters is another must. Jackson and his family (the McLeods) have lived in the region forever. jackson’s parents run the local bookstore in town; his cousin operates one of the most highly-regarded tour companies; and jackson himself operates the helicopter business. we were lucky enough to do a 30min flight over the coast. flying high above the beautiful manicured voyager estate, and other recognizable wineries, we arrived over the bright blue and turquoise waters off the leeuwin-naturaliste park. tracking south along the coast we could see surfers point in prevelley, gnarabup beach (where i had been swimming earlier that morning) and so much more. i chose to fly with the door off, which made it extra awesome for shooting photos and for some pretty outstanding views. jackson is a super-friendly, easy-going guy who knows the region exceptionally well and sure knows how to fly. highly recommend.

discovery tour with sean of margaret river discovery co: discovery tours

Sean, who has lived in the region for over 13 years is one of those guys you are happy to be stuck in a vehicle with for over 6 hours! Fun, funny, and full of facts about the region, Sean’s “tour for people who don’t do tours”) was incredible. With a tiny group (there was just 6 of us), we bundled into Sean’s luxury 4wd and began a day of discovery. A volunteer firefighter, Sean perviously worked in the wine industry and knows the local community and region like the back of his hand. He is a super-experienced adventurer and loves connecting visitors with nature. He was a big surfer until only recently (when 3 of his good mates were taken by sharks). He is full of solid advice (like the wine tip above, and his other advice to “never be a winemaker!” He told us it is too much of an investment - of time, of hard work, of money for not enough reward!). Our morning started with a peaceful canoeing session, in a very wide and cool canadian canoe, down the Margaret River itself. It was beautiful. We then went on to Gnaraup Beach for a coffee to-go from White Elephant and then on to a scared aboriginal spot where we sat quietly and watched a bunch of marron in the water beneath us. We tasted three different local honeys from the surrounding trees, while reflecting on the Aboriginal history of the area that dates back more than 30,000 years. Lunch was hosted by the kind people at Fraser Gallop Estate - a tiny boutique winery that is proving to be the one of the region’s most celebrated emerging superstars. We had exclusive access to the working winery - spending time with award-winning winemaker Clive Otto (ex-Vasse Felix), and went on to enjoy a private lunch in the vines. Their chardonnay was the highlight for me. But my favorite part of the day was when we hit up Sean’s secret spot along the Cape to Cape Track. Going seriously off-road (Sean has special government approval to use a 4WD track), we battled dust-driven and sandy roads, dodging snakes and kangaroos, before popping out on top of the Wilyabrup Cliffs. High above the Indian Ocean the epic scenery, fresh sea breezes and surrounding ancient soils provided a deeper understanding of the unique terroir of the Margaret River region. Dolphins, sharks, whales, kangaroos, eagles and wildflowers are seasonal, but all possible from this vantage point. This point is also home to one of the biggest waves - flat on the day we visited - but getting up to 20ft on a good day. We sat and listened while Sean told us numerous stories about the area, including the time he and a mate were flying a chopper along that particular part of the coast and saw a whale from the air giving birth to its cub. They then spotted a great white heading towards the whale and its new baby, prompting Sean’s mate the pilot to get down really low in the chopper - just 2m from the water to try and scare the shark away. As they were working out if they should land on the beach or if it was right to intervene with nature, a pod of 12+ dolphins headed towards the whale. Sean managed to shoot a number of images that somehow made the international news, and in turn they found themselves the target of countless tv interviews from around the world about the story. This day with Sean was the absolute highlight of my trip.

Surf: an obvious one, but you are not only spoilt for choice here with the wines, but also the waves as well. When in Margaret River you are only a short drive from over 40 surf breaks and more than a hundred wineries. Best time for surf: September to April (to coincide with spring swells, summer beach weather and the Margaret River Pro).

Mountain biking: rent a bike from Hairy Marron on Bussell Highway, just outside Margaret River town, and go for a ride through the beautiful natural forest nearby – there are countless tracks you can choose from. It’s an easy way to sneak in some exercise between all the amazing eating and drinking you’ll be doing.

Visit the Boranup Forest and caves. Drive down Caves Road through the breathtaking Boranup Forest for a cave tour of Ngilgi Cave, Lake Cave, Jewel Cave and Mammoth Cave - all incredibly beautiful and ancient natural wonders - and all worth exploring.

Visit the local farmers markets. Held all over the region, check the market calendar to find out which market is on while you are visiting and stock up on local wines and produce - cheese, olives, artisan breads, smoked meats, seasonal fruit and veg, free-range eggs, flowers and so on.

To pamper.

Look no further than Empire Spa Retreat. The setting alone is worth traveling for. Tucked away in a beautiful bush setting, the rooms here are beautiful, and the spa treatments are heavenly. I was lucky enough to experience a Pure Radiance facial using 100% chemical free and Australian-made Sodashi products, and it was amazing. Book early to make sure you dont miss out.

To sleep.

There are a few fabulous sleeping options scattered throughout the region, but my suggestion would be to stay in the centre of Margaret River town itself. The great thing about being in town is that you are halfway from the top and bottom of the Margaret River Cape (Cape Naturaliste at the top near Dunsborough, or Cape Leeuwin in the south), making it the perfect launching pad for all your exploring.

In town, the pick of the bunch is without doubt the brand new Townhouse Margaret River (which opened in October 2016). A beautifully appointed and central townhouse, Carlie (the super-friendly local owner) has thoughtfully designed her home to include everything you could possibly need for your visit to the region. Located centrally behind the main street, it takes less than 2min to walk into the centre of town, making you close to all the good coffee spots, supermarkets and best of all, the best Japanese restaurant in town - Mikis. The house can easily accommodate up to six people, and would be absolutely perfect for a family holiday, or just a few couples as well. With lots of natural light, an outdoor shower, beautiful furnishings, and a sunny little garden, this is a really lovely place to stay. Carlie is only a phone-call away if you have any questions or need any help, and is brilliant at recommending all the best things to do in the area. It really is beautiful here.

last updated: november 2016.

[spotlight series. chantel barber + rusty miller]

[byron bay soundtrack. marinade]

Byron Bay has had my heart for a very long time. From coming here as a kid, to heaps of fun and crazy friend-filled trips in my 20s, to now, more recently, regular monthly visits since moving back from California 12 months ago. Its the energy. it hits you as soon as you touch down in Ballina and make the drive into town. Its the nature. The outrageous natural beauty of the bay. The beaches, the national park, the waterfalls, the hinterland with all its secret corners, and the ocean. I will never get sick of that walk up to the lighthouse, at sunrise or anytime of day, up along the coast spotting whales and dolphins along the way, and then cutting back down through the bush. As Byron becomes increasingly-touristed and busy, we seem to be spending more and more time in its surrounding towns (Bangalow, Mullumbimby, Brunswick Heads, New Brighton, Federal etc) - more quiet and full of charm - but here are some of the things we are loving for time spent in the bay. Its very beautiful here.

To caffeinate.

Sparrow: its just a tiny hole-in-the-wall, but its our pick for the best coffee in Byron. Hands down. We seriously dream about this stuff when we’re away. Creamy, and so perfectly delicious. You can also find a small selection of bread by The Bread Social (the best fruit and nut loaf you will ever experience in your life). And the baristas are so ridiculously friendly. We love it here.

Leaf and Grain: is Bayleaf Cafe’s take-out outpost located right next door, and they do good coffee brews as well. 

The Farm: if you’ve got a car, the Farm does an awesome coffee and is definitely worth the drive (for not only the coffee, but the food, the bread, the deli goods, the flowers, the animals, and the farm itself. But more on that later).

Bun: it’s not necessarily aesthetically pleasing, but this tiny caffeine outpost in the industrial estate does great coffee. Its amazing. You can also find their coffee in a bunch of places across town, including the guest suites at 28 Degrees. Its delicious. 

Roadhouse: they do everything well here. Coffee is no exception.

To eat.

Folk: what can i say, its my favourite (together with its sister cafe WOODS in Bangalow). So insanely adorable (a tiny little cottage tucked away next to a caravan park on the way out of town), good vibes, and healthy, inspiring, delicious organic food and drinks. Its very beautiful here. Eat and drink it all.

Three Blue Ducks at The Farm: we love coming here for breakfast. The brekkies are big and hearty and you cant beat the setting - surrounded by acres and acres of farmland and gorgeous farm animals. The staff are friendly. The coffee is good. And the bread is my favourite in Australia. Its delicious here.

Topshop: a Byron staple. High on the hill, up the road from Clarkes, grab a smoothie and a patch of grass. Known for their burgers, they bake their own bread and they do quick, easy eats to-go.

Combi: this pink and perfectly pretty Melbourne cafe opened their Byron outpost only a month or two ago. It will be your new go-to for all things healthy. You cant go wrong with any of the food here. The coffee is great as well. And the space is beautiful. 

Roadhouse: its an old favourite. Super chilled, good tunes, and the food is so consistently good. Most things are made from scratch (including their almond milk). Breakfast here is wonderful. But we love it for dinner as well. We love their nourish bowl; we love everything they do. Their cocktails are next level, too. I can never go past the negroni. The only downside is that they don't have a bar license (only a restaurant license), so don't turn up expecting just to have a few afternoon drinks - you will always need to order some food as well (the popcorn does the trick though).

For pizza: you cant go past Il Buco. Its tiny - there’s not much room to sit down - but grab a pizza to-go instead. Its completely legit, and its amazing. We also like the Treehouse - where the pizza might not be quite as authentic, but the vibes are good and its a fun place for a drink as well.

Naked Treaties: for raw, vegan, organic, gluten/dairy/sugar-free goodness. They do great smoothies and sweet treats. Its like being back at Cafe Gratitude in LA - try their “My Heart is Open” smoothie.

The Source: where we stock up on snacks. Such an awesome selection of bits and bobs. We love their dark-chocolate covered everything (think bananas, goji berries, dried strawberries, almonds etc), and their raw cacao energy balls.

Bayleaf Cafe: their food is good. Its always insanely busy though. We like their greens bowl. And we love the take-away bircher from Leaf and Grain next door.

Bread from the Bread Social: Their Caraway and Rye is amazing, and their fruit bread is life-changing.

Heart and Halo: i love getting take-away from here. Hearty, healthy, indian-inspired vegetarian wholesomeness. 

Italian at the Pacific: for a pasta and bottle of wine, plus a few coconut chilli martinis. Best cocktail ever. Be sure to swizzle the chilli around the glass a couple of times before taking your first sip. The perfect heat. Its the best.

St Elmo: for a pre-dinner cocktail at the bar before heading somewhere else, or to stay on for dinner. Tapas-style. The garlic-tomato bread to start is incredible. 

Mongers: for a modern take on fish and chips. Casual and low-key. The calamari salad is great. We love their potato cakes as well.

Doma Café (Federal): for the cutest little Japanese café (in the tiny village of Federal about 25mins inland from Byron) offering insanely delicious brown rice sushi, healthy treats and good coffee. Run by a couple of delightful Japanese couples, their food is so unbelievably good and they can sometimes also be found at my favorite farmers market ever (the Friday morning Mullumbimby Farmers Market). The cafe in Federal closes early though, so make sure you check opening times before making the trek out there.

To drink.

Roadhouse: for seriously good cocktails. Remember though they don't have a bar license, so you will need to order food as well.

The Italian: for their coconut chill martini.

Mez Club: for their happy hour, in a beautiful light, white space that feels more like Mykonos than Byron.

Beach Hotel: because no trip to Byron would be complete without it. Think casual beers by the beach.

Treehouse: fun place for a few drinks in the afternoon to roll into night.

Stone and Wood: for a drink at their brewery in the industry estate.

The Northern: for classic pub vibes and live bands.

To do.

Walk to the lighthouse: take the coastal track up, and the bush track down. catch the sun rise over the most easterly point of australia. have a swim at little wategos on the way up. its so beautiful here.

Yoga at Ananta.

Whites Beach: my absolute favorite place. This secret little beach (well not so secret anymore) is hidden away deep in the Broken head nature reserve. There’s good surf and plenty of beautiful white sand and you may even be the only ones there. Pack a picnic and stay awhile (just check the tides first though, so you don't get caught out).

Sunrise on Tallows: 7km long/wide surf beach, with the most cosiest corner down the northern end.

Surf/hang/bbq at Wategos. This is our favourite beach of all the beaches in town. 

Surf lessons with Rusty Miller: ex-USA 60s surf champ, Rusty offers private or group lessons and is passionate on all things ocean-related.

Byron Bay Farmers Market: 8am-11am Thursday, and 8am-11am Saturday in Bangalow.

Surf 'The Pass': one of Byron’s most iconic surf breaks – famed for its long, peeling right-handers. In bigger swells the Pass can be challenging, but in general it’s a great location for any surfing ability, especially loved by longboarders.

Little Wategos Beach: this sheltered spot holds a special place in our heart, being the location of a good friend’s wedding. Located at the end of the Cape, its a beautiful little beach overlooked by the lighthouse and most easterly point.

Visit Bangalow: this is a must. The most charming of all the hinterland towns (only 15mins from Byron), it is one of our favorite places. Visit the stunning flagship store of Goddess of Babylon (featuring brands we love such as Noire intimates, and Yoli and Otis), Bisque Traders (for heavenly interiors), Woods (for the dreamiest little cafe), Island Luxe, Our Corner Store, the Saturday farmers market, the pharmacy (stocking brands like Aesop, Dr Hauschka, and chocolate by Melbourne’s Monsieur Truffle), and Graciosca for the most incredible hilltop hideaway ever.

Visit Mullumbimby: home to our favorite farmers market in Australia. Come here on a Friday morning (the market runs from 7am-11am) for some of the best and freshest produce, amazing food stalls, and brilliant buskers. We are obsessed with the omelettes by the Nomadic Kitchen, and the Doma sushi hand rolls (if the Doma stall is there). Head into town for great coffee at Punch and Daisy (and their cute sunny courtyard), and Milk and Honey (for their wood-fired pizza).

Visit Brunswick Heads: another one of our favorite little towns, its full of Aussie beach town charm. Situated between the river and the ocean, its a pretty little spot which is starting to burst with some amazing food spots and a creative energy. If you only do one thing, eat at Fleet (but book WAY in advance). This is the best dining experience in Australia. Hands down. Grab coffee, flowers and snacks from the gorgeous team at Jones and Co. Check out the Picture House. Eat middle eastern food at Yami. And sleep at the newly renovated Sails Motel.

New Brighton Farmers Market: a smaller version of the Mullum Friday market, this Tuesday morning market is set under the trees and is equally as wonderful. Grab coffee and brekkie at the Yum Yum tree cafe after the market.

Protestors Falls: my happiest place. There are so many falls in the hinterland surrounding Byron, but Protestors is definitely my favorite of them all. It takes about an hour to drive there from Byron, but the drive itself is magical. Once you arrive in the Nightcap National Park, the falls themselves are just a short walk from the carpark. Its very beautiful here. 

Visit crystal castle: up in the hills. As the name suggests, its home to plenty of crystals and spirituality, and its a peaceful getaway from town in amongst the rainforest. 

Climb Mt Warning: about an hour’s drive from Byron Bay, the hike up to Mt Warning is about 8.8km return. If you can get up early enough, its an incredible spot from which to watch the sun come up. A stunning journey through lush rainforest.

Snorkeling or diving at Julian Rocks: located within the Cape Byron Marine Park. Home to hundreds of marine species including stingrays, turtles, fish and leopard sharks.

To shop.

You only need to wander around the centre of town to find heaps of good little stores and local labels. Keep an eye out for: Auguste, Liberty Trading Co, Ahoy Trader, the new Aje store, Island Luxe, Spell, Tiny People, Mister Zimi, etc.

Also, check out the Industry Estate - now home to Yoli and Otis (the most beautiful organic childrenswear), We are Pampa, Pop and Scott, and more.

To sleep:

28 Degrees: this bright and breezy “barefoot luxury” guesthouse is the new kid on the luxury accommodation block in Byron. Instantly calming, this bright and breezy beach house offers three garden rooms (with private gardens and heated plunge pools), and (my favourite) the upstairs Lighthouse room with distant views of Byron Bay’s lighthouse. Each room has been thoughtfully fitted out with the most beautiful interiors; think king-sized beds, beautiful French linens by Cultiver House, dusty pink sofas by MCM House, mandala-looking wall hangings by the Dharma Door (amazing!), and the best bit, a claw-footed bathtub in the Lighthouse Room’s bathroom with bath products by MILK and the most-perfectly dim floor lighting. Another favourite, the well-curated and generous mini-bar which showcases locally sourced products. Delicious Byron Bay bun coffee (From the industry estate), teas by ‘Mayde’, granola by the Belle General (in Ballina), pete evans raw C coconut water, Stone and Wood beers and more. There is also a bose sound system, a well-considered collection of books, and a lovely woven beach bag in each room to use for your stay. Owners Deb and Lindon, who moved north from Sydney as part of a seachange four years ago, have done a wonderful job in creating an elegantly relaxed oasis in the centre of town.

Pips Tree House: this is one of my favorite airbnb finds ever. The most magical location - smackbang on Belongil Beach - high up in the trees. A beautifully and architecturally designed treehouse home, consisting of two bedrooms (you honestly feel like you are sleeping up in the trees), antique pieces of furniture and artwork (some done by the owner himself), and a beautiful big deck from which you can bbq and eat brekkie on the beachfront. Its amazing. We love it here so much. A short 20min walk into town along the beach.

Cape Beach House: an old favourite, we have been coming to the Cape for over 10 years. Staying at the Cape is like coming home. A beautiful light and airy beach house, with wooden floorboards, and five bedrooms coming off an communal dining/living space. The location is hard to beat - directly opposite Clarkes Beach, and perfectly nestled in between Tallow and Wategos beach. its also an easy one hour return trip up to the lighthouse and back. More than anything though, its the Cape’s delightful owners - katie and marc - which make this place so special. So friendly and welcoming, Katie is the most divine host, and happily prepares a healthy breakfast spread each morning (including her own freshly baked granola and muffins). It is this that keeps us coming back for more.

Atlantic Byron Bay: another old favourite. We love this beautiful boutique beachhouse in the center of town. Light, bright, beachy interiors amongst a quiet and tranquil oasis of palms. Come here for classic and stylish beach house accommodation, communal kitchens, bbqs and outdoor decking. A super cute store as well. Kimberly, Deb and the rest of the team are beyond wonderful. We love it here.

Secret Garden Byron Bay: a private and hidden oasis in the heart of town, this beautiful property was once home to legendary Australian artist David Bromley. Surrounded by palm trees and artistic treasures, it is a perfectly private garden wonderland. There are three types of accommodation on offer. The artist studio (where Bromley once worked), which is a gorgeous self-contained cottage that sleeps two (with an awesome outdoor bath). The Boat Shed, a colorful space that also sleeps two. And the Artist House which has three bedrooms and Bromley art everywhere. The whole compound can sleep 10 and includes a vintage Airstream caravan, a Swedish hot tub, wood-fired pizza oven, and veggie garden. Its very beautiful here.

last updated: october 2016.

[gwinganna soundtrack: monday].

Gwinganna, a lifestyle retreat tucked away in the Gold Coast hinterland of Australia, had been on my radar for a very long time. It was about 6 or 7 years ago while living in Sydney that my best friend Liv went along and came back raving about her life-changing experience. I lived vicariously through her stories and the lessons she had learnt (stuff about sleep and stress and sugar etc). I felt enlightened based on what I had learnt secondhand. For whatever reason though, I never found the time to visit before moving to the US in 2012.

So back in August, when Gwinganna invited me to come and stay, I made getting there a priority.

Opening in 2006, Gwinganna (meaning “lookout”) is a wellness destination designed to “soothe your soul and inspire you to live a healthier life”. I was on the back of a 6 week trip - a big, fast, crazy rip around the States, from Melb-LA-SF-NY-LA-and then into Brisbane-Byron - when the invitation came through, so the timing could not have been more perfect. A couple of days to slow down and reset.

Driving up the long (and very steep) driveway into Gwinganna, you are surrounded by outrageously beautiful Australian bushland. A nature playground. It is this setting, high on a mountain-top in the Tallebudgera Valley on the Gold Coast, that makes Gwinganna so instantly calming.

Gwinganna offers a diverse range of wellness programs and packages. I was part of the gwinganna wellness weekend experience. Not as full on as one of the week-long detox programs, this retreat still allows for coffee and tea to be served until 11am each morning, and also for 100ml of organic wine to be served with dinner each night. The boundaries around what you can bring to retreat remain the same though: you must leave your cigarettes, drugs, food, alcohol and any caffeinated drinks behind. A visit to Gwinganna is a “commitment to stay on retreat”, and they urge you to respect this philosophy, giving the Gwinganna team an opportunity to help re-evaluate lifestyle habits that do not serve you in terms of wellness, energy and calmness.

The gwinganna wellness weekend consists of early morning wake-up calls, sunrise Qigong (an ancient Chinese holistic system of coordinated body posture and movement, breathing and meditation, not dissimilar to tai chi), lots of delicious herbal teas, plentiful organic wholefoods, nature hikes, workout classes, pool time, massage and other spa treatments, seminars on wellness topics, and early nights. 

Unlike Aro Hā (the New Zealand health retreat just outside Queenstown that I attended last year) - groups here are on the larger side. Where Aro Hā can only accommodate a maximum of 14 guests at any one time, Gwinganna can accommodate up to 60. While I initially found this larger group size to be a little overwhelming, it seemed to work well. It was so interesting to learn for what reasons people were there. While some it seems are there to seek help getting through difficult personal times, others are there for health reasons and to lose weight, while many are corporate types desperately trying to slow down and find balance in their busy lives. I loved meeting a bevy of interesting people at the communal dining tables each day - a super-sweet mother and daughter combo from Sydney, two girl friends (young mums who had left their kids and husbands behind) who make an effort to get away together for some downtime a couple of times a year, a lovely man from the Northern Rivers who was seeking respite after a stressful year opening a new caravan park, and so on. Everyone is there for their own reasons, and on their own journey.

For me, I was excited to use the weekend to regroup and reset. Spending so much time on the road, I find it important sometimes to consciously slow down - catch up on sleep, be in nature, and be more mindful about nutrition and digestion. I found the food at Gwinganna to be one of the highlights of my stay. Fresh, local, organic, refined sugar-free whole food - most of which comes straight out of the on-site garden and orchard. With a daily changing menu, you are treated to wholesome and nutritious dishes at every meal time. The menu is designed to ensure you receive the required nourishment for optimal energy and vitality, while also helping to support and improve digestion and liver detoxification, reduce inflamation, improve gut bacteria and balance blood sugar levels. Mindful eating is encouraged. An interesting lesson was around chewing. We were each given a brazil nut in one of the wellness seminars, and told to eat it - slowly and mindfully - counting the number of chews. I was done after about 30 chews. A woman next to me chewed her nut over 90 times! I couldn’t believe it! I thought I had done well. Sadly not, my mere 30 chews was considered quite deplorable! It was a good reminder of how we should slow down and be more mindful and aware of what we are eating. The session also covered the importance of digestion, and the impact it has on your health and wellbeing. I found the information in these sessions to be welcome reminders of habits I know about and love to apply, but sometimes let slip when spending so much time on the road without any set routine.

With accommodation, there are a number of different options. I was lucky enough to experience one of the new Boorabee Villas and these I can highly recommend. Effectively your own private house, the Boorabee Villas (there are two of them) are tucked away in the mountains and are surrounded by native plants and trees offering ultimate privacy. Contemporary in design, they are light-filled and come with a large deck looking over the hinterland and out to the ocean, as well as your own private plunge pool. Not only that, you also get the use of a golf buggy for the entirety of your stay. It was an incredible treat to wake up here, and more luxury than I could have ever expected.

If budget allows, I would also recommend the Moonarie Villas (perched on the edge of the mountain ridge, with views over the valley and ocean) which also come with use of a buggy. And lastly, the Peel House, a fully-restored heritage cottage which features two ensuite bedrooms, a shared living space, a buggy and breathtaking views out over the gold coast. 

The Dreamtime Spa was another major highlight for me. A calming oasis surrounded by palms, this is where you really come to relax and unwind. Inspired by the Aboriginal dreamtime, my 2.5 hour tribal dreaming session began deep in the forrest with a special ceremony to “release the past by setting an intention for welcoming new abundance into all areas of your life”. After the traditional smudging ritual of burning native leaves to clear the air of bad energy, I was taken into a treatment room for a didgeridoo healing, ochre clay dot painting and a customized 80-minute massage drawing from KaHuna, Myotheraphy, hot stones and Chi Nei Tsang elements. My soulful therapist (and founder of the treatment) Stephen explained that the idea is “to light the fire of creativity and energy in each person, to help them reach their full potential”. The journey “delivers a powerful mix of movement, voice and deep stillness”. It was an incredible experience. I was in a total state of bliss (as I was flung around the massage table half naked!). I was sent away with a stone of my choosing to help remind me to carry through with my intention. And another (not so pretty) stone to bury when the time was right - as a symbol of the things in my life that do not serve me. A truly magical experience (but maybe not for everyone. If you are open-minded though, you will surely enjoy the ride).

There are plenty of activities to choose from each morning, and you can choose to do as many or as little as you like. If you would prefer to lie by the pool while everyone else is in a boxing class, you can. If you would prefer to meditate while others are hiking, you can. If you would prefer to read a book in your room, you can. I loved the daily Qigong (while watching the sun rise over the valley), and the boxing classes. Even more so though, I loved the Nia dance class. Another friend of mine Doggy, who had recently been to Gwinganna, had told me that this had been her favourite activity of all and that I should definitely give it a go. She said she felt so invigorated after the class, and so full of energy, that she ran out of the class screaming, arms flailing in the air, and jumped straight into the pool fully-clothed! I was obviously intrigued. A freestyle dance class, Nia is a unique combination of martial arts, dance and healing arts. Some of it is choreographed, other parts are completely freestyle. Our gorgeous teacher, with the most beautiful and generous energy, encouraged everyone to relax to the beat of the music and really embrace the space and energy around us. It was so awesome to see everyone let go. There were all sorts of weird and wonderful moves going on. It was so inspiring, and so much fun. I loved it. 

Last of all though, and probably my most favourite part of the whole weekend, was time spent with John Palmer - Gwinganna's resident botanist and social ecologist. I have never met a more knowledgeable and passionate person on all things nature, mother earth and fostering the traditions of our indigenous people. John is like no other. Full of quirks, his morning chat - while escorting us around walking tracks throughout the property - was by far the most entertaining part of my visit. The world needs more characters like John. Also passionate about recycling, John helps inspire guests to adapt new habits to enable us to reduce our impact on the environment. He’s a good egg John, and he helped bring a smile to my face each morning.

It’s the combination of everything above that makes Gwinganna such a special experience. And really, your Gwinganna experience can be whatever you want it to be. For me, it was: downtime, nature, exceptionally good food, hiking, massage, and more nature. Two days was perfect; just the right amount of time. There is something for everyone, and you are guaranteed to leave feeling happier and healthier no matter what the circumstances are that led you there in the first place. The magical energy of that beautiful bushland alone will ensure that is the case.

Check out the Gwinganna website for more details.

last updated: october 2016.

[daylesford soundtrack. station]

Known as the spa capital of Australia (thanks to the hundreds of naturally occurring mineral springs in the area), Daylesford is only 90mins from Melbourne - making it an easy weekend getaway. A little more touristy now than I once remember, it still retains an element of charm. Most importantly however (aside from its hot springs, the nature, the great local produce, and its art scene), it is home to an incredible vacation rental by the name of St.Etienne. This gorgeous home popped up on my radar only recently, and when its very kind and fun owners - Steve and Lina - invited me to stay, I jumped at the chance. In their words, “we wanted to create a home for us and the tots to enjoy, as well as like-minded travelers who appreciate design”. I saw some pics (their website is a beauty). I was sold.

St. Etienne is a Federation home from 1912 located right in the heart of Daylesford. Perfect for a getaway with a group of friends, or with a small family, this three-bedroom home can happilyaccommodate everyone. Maintaining its period features whilst adopting a minimalist and contemporary style, St. Etienne is surrounded by a native woodland garden, making it a perfectly quiet and peaceful corner of the world.

An easy five minute walk from Lake Daylesford and only 450m from the heart of town (Vincent Street), St. Etienne also includes a few creature comforts should you decide to stay indoors. We fell in love with some of the countless and well-considered personal touches. Some of my favourites - the welcome hamper full of locally made treats; the denim SMEG fridge in the kitchen; the “simplemente puntos” pegboard-looking wallpaper by brisbane-based designers milton and king, and the light, bright plywood vibes in the front bedroom; the personal iPhone chargers beside each of the beds; the Byron Bay Hanging Chair looking out to Wombat Hill from the other front bedroom (with the giant ‘mortadella’ print looking down over the bed, by south australian artist billie justice thomson); the ridiculously awesome kaare klint safari chair and freestanding tub in the bright and airy bathroom; and all the perfectly curated mags and books in the living area. Its cosy and perfect. Seriously perfect. 

It would be easy to bunker down in the house all weekend (we pretty much did - only leaving for a coffee run each morning, or to stock up on produce for the kitchen). We did find a few cute things in town though, if you feel like popping out for a moment or two.

To eat and drink.

It literally takes 5mins to walk up to the main street of Daylesford - Vincent Street - where you will find some good coffee. We chose Larder as our go-to. 

Daylesford Health Food + Organics became another go-to. A cute little organic food store that also does healthy sandwiches, salads and smoothies. Perfect for something quick and easy to grab on the go.

The tea and scones at the little cafe within the Convent Gallery are definitely worth hunting down (check out the art there too, and the lovely tranquil surrounds).

Wine and Country (as recommended to us by our Castlemaine insider, Tim Sproal) is a really cute little boutique wine shop, showcasing some of the best low-intervention produces both locally and afar. You can buy bottles of awesome local wines and beers to take home, or you can choose to sit and have a glass of wine and a cheese board while you wait.

The Farmers Arms for dinner - a local favourite - and a favourite of ours, as well. We like to sita thte bar (more atmosphere than the dining room), chat to the barman, order a glass of wine, and then a big medium/rare eye-fillet steak. Perfect on a cold wintry night. 

Mercato (a Daylesford institution) if you’re in the mood for some fine-dining, or The Argus Dining Room in nearby Hepburn Springs as well.

To do.has recently styled the boathouse cafe and worth a look during a morning walk to the lake. It's 450 m away if you walk down to the start of West st and follow the track down. 

Farmers Market: if you happen to be in town on the first Saturday of the moneth, this is a really cute little local farmers market (held between 8am-1pm).

Head up to the Botanical Gardens (which are equally beautiful in summer or winter), and stop by the Wombat Hill Cafe up there too - warm and friendly.

If you are a fan of Australian artist David Bromley, check out his retail design store. Bromley recently styled the Boathouse cafe, so its worth having a peek there too, while doing your morning walk around the lake.

Visit the Convent Gallery for some lovely art in tranquil surrounds. Be sure to try their tea and scones as well, they are to die for!

For your afternoon walk, head down Central Springs Road to The Mills Market for some vintage treasures (only 450m from St.Etienne).

If you like cider, head out to the Daylesford Cider Company (who specialize in traditional craft cider using English heritage-listed apple varietiess grown organically out there on their farm) for a pot of cider in the sun (they do food as well).

For some pampering, pay a visit tothe Hepburn Bathhouse and Spa for a traditional communal bath, or spa treatment. We love their hydrating facial.

Lavendula is a pretty place for a wander, surrounded by olive trees and lavender fields, and a great little petanque field. 

Look out some of the nearby local providores nearby: Holy Goat Cheese at the Sutton Grange Organic Farm, and Istra Smallgoods for cured meats (in Musk) for example. 

And visit some of the region’s cellar doors: Curly Flat in Lancefield; Captains Creek Organic Wines in Blampied; Passing Clouds Winery in Musk; Ellender Estate Winery in Glenlyon.

Day trip to Kyneton, Trentham and Castlemaine (*see our separate guides for each - Kyenton now live, Trentham and Castlemaine coming soon).

To sleep.

St. Etienne (obviously).

Or, Lynda Gardner’s most fabulous White House. We are so inspired by this woman (one of our Melbourne insiders). Everything this very clever cookie touches, turns to gold. But more on that later…

[soundtrack. about today]

“AN ISLAND, OFF AN ISLAND, OFF AN ISLAND”.

Satellite Island, located in the heart of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel of Tasmania, is “an island, off an island, off an island”. 

Off the coast of Bruny Island, there is a magic here. I cant even remember how or where I first heard of this special little place, but it kept popping up on my radar and I knew that I had to visit.

I was invited down by the island’s lovely owner, Kate Alstergren, in September 2016. My dear friend Lucy Laucht just happened to be back visiting from New York at the same time, so I asked her to be my wingy and together we set off on a brilliant adventure.

Kate was amazing in prepping us for our island visit. We landed in Hobart, rented some wheels and then drove into the city centre to stock up on supplies. Kate had loaded us up with a list of all her favorite local suppliers and producers, so we set about ticking off all the places on her list - bread from Pigeon Hole Bakers, meat from Vermey’s Quality Meats (the french lamb cutlets) in Sandy Bay, local wine from Gasworks Cellar Door (we picked up a bottle of Parish Vineyard 2014 Riesling (amazing!) from the Coal River Valley, a bottle of OUSE 2014 Chardonnay from Tasmania’s Central Highlands, and a Stoney Vineyard 2015 Pinor Noir), and then closer to Kettering (the departure point for the Bruny Island ferry) we stopped at Kate’s favourite roadside farm stand to stock up on fresh fruit and veg. We were ready!! The thing is, if you forget to take something with you, you’re kind of in trouble. There is no way you will be wanting to leave the island once you get there…

After arriving at the Kettering car ferry, its just a short 15min ferry ride over to Bruny Island from there. Once on Bruny, you then drive 40-minutes south to reach the tiny hamlet of Alonnah. It is at Alonnah that you will be met by Satellite Island’s friendly manager, Richard Roe. Richard, who kindly lugged our bags on to his little tinnie, then putted us over the little channel to reach the island. We were giddy with excitement as the boat pulled in - views of the boathouse (one of the sleeping options down on the jetty), the sheer cliffs, and the untamed Tasmania wilderness beyond it - we knew we were in for a treat.

Richard talked us through the ins and outs of island life. He explained the sleeping options (either the boathouse, the summer house (the 3-bedroom house on top of the island), or the luxury bell tent). Lucy and I were keen to be in the boathouse. It was the middle of winter, but we opted to sleep in the same room, in the same bed, with the roller doors wide open, so we could both fall asleep and wake up each morning listening to the water lapping up on to the island’s edge below us!!! It was incredible.

It is hard to describe how special this place really is. So remote. So quiet. So much raw natural beauty. The whole entire island to yourself.

The island can accommodate up to 12 people at any one time. The interiors, all done by Kate herself, feel Scandinavian-inspired (Kate’s husband is Norwegian) and are perfectly simple and stylish. You can find everything you need inside the main house, including Aesop skincare in the bathrooms, beach towels, a bose sound system, board games and a fully stocked kitchen. For outdoor activities, there are fishing rods, kayaks, snorkels, or even a beautiful old-school wooden rowing boat named Pearl. We loved walking around the island - there are a couple of walks to choose from - and spotting birds and the roaming deer. 

Richard introduced us to Bert the stag. He also took us around to meet Rodney the rooster (a gift from The Agrarian Kitchen’s legendary Rodney Dunn) and the rest of Rodney’s free-range friends. We had fresh eggs to collect each morning, should we wish; fresh organic herbs and veggies from the garden; and plenty of provisions in the well-stocked kitchen as well. Oh and on top of that (and probably what we got most excited about) was the fact that we could carve our own oysters off the rocks and then shuck and eat them then and there. It couldn't get much fresher than that!!!

We lit bonfires each night while listening to the wind howling around us and the water lapping up on the rocks. We ate our freshly shucked oysters. We drank our local wine. We cooked our lamb chops and sausages on the raging fire. We were happy. 

Time stands still here on Satellite Island. It is a truly unique and secluded getaway and one that I can highly recommend. I really am desperate to return (maybe next time with a big group, and for a few extra days). It’s so outrageously beautiful here.

[kyneton soundtrack. marinade].

There are so many awesome little weekend getaways out of Melbourne, and the historic town of Kyneton in Victoria's Macedon Ranges is just one of them. Located 85km north-west of Melbourne, Kyneton is an easy hour (ish) drive from the centre of Melbourne, or an even easier train ride. If you are really organised, take your bikes on the train (catch the Bendigo Line) from Spencer Street station - because once in Kyneton, you will be able to bike almost everywhere, and its the perfect way to get around.

Like its neighbors (Castlemaine, Trentham, Daylesford and even Bendigo), Kyneton is a hub for good living - with access to fresh and seasonal produce, local farmers markets, great coffee, impressive dining options, and an inspiring art scene. These small towns seem to attract a whole host of makers, creators and innovators, and the vibe here is friendly and welcoming. You will love wandering along its pretty streets, surrounded by impressive 19th century bluestone architecture.

We recently had the pleasure of spending the weekend in Kyneton - courtesy of the wonderful team at the Flop House. Genevieve and the Flop House crew look after a number of beautiful vacation rentals in and around Kyneton, and their HQ can be found tucked away at the top of some stairs off the main street in a gorgeous interiors store.

I had had my eye on the Flop House’s Harpsichord House for some time (it was the Scandi-inspired design that got me!), but given the house was already booked over the weekend I was going to be there, Genevieve instead recommended the brand new and luxe River House instead. We were in for a serious treat.

The River House is Flop House’s latest venture and offers a new level of luxury for the Macedon Ranges. Opening in April 2016, we were one of the River House's first set of guests and were lucky enough to spend a weekend relaxing in this modern home situated on 2 acres of bushland, with private river access. The house, located in the little town of Lauriston, is just five minutes from Kyneton, and twenty minutes from Daylesford.

With a large infinity pool, tennis court, fishing rods, bikes, picnic baskets, wood-fired pizza oven, and an awe-inspiring veggie garden, it's the perfect place for a group getaway. There were only four of us this time, but the house can accommodate up to six. To make guest’s feel grounded Flop House provide their signature summer breakfast hamper with locally made preserves, Grist sourdough, bircher muesli, yoghurt and poached fruits. A heartier breakfast of locally produced, McIvor free-range bacon and Hand to Ground eggs can also be arranged. Not only that, a complimentary bottle of local sparkling was waiting for us on arrival. 

It was tempting not to leave the house all weekend, but when we did, we managed to find a few wonderful little things in town we can happily recommend for your next weekend away in Kyneton. 

To eat/drink.

Coffee and breakfast from Little Swallow Cafe. 

Lunch (or to grab supplies for your picnic) from Monsieur Pierre food store (coffee by Allpress).

Pre-dinner drink at Midnight Starling.

Dinner (or lunch) at Source - an incredible local and seasonal menu (the beef fillet was a stand-out).

Dinner at La Bonta (for something a little more formal).

A pub meal at the New Keynote Hotel (formerly the Newmarket) - bar at the front, restaurant out the back.

Or a drink and pub meal at the historic Royal George Hotel.

Grab a bottle of wine from Banks Fine Wine in Mollison Street.

To shop.

kabinett: our favourite shop of all. A perfect mix of vintage pieces, taxidermy, art, Indian textiles and ceramics. This store is made for foraging.

mulch: new to kyneton, this little store is home to locally made ceramics, letterpress stationary, homewares and fashion. You can also find an awesome selection of Aesop products as well.

stockroom: an impressive and unique space that is part real (showcasing local artists and makers), and part gallery space as well.

upstairs with grandfathers axe and flop house: home to the flop house HQ and an impressive range of antiques and interiors as well.

lauriston press: home to sarah gabriel’s original drawings, prints and art supplies. 

rundell & rundell chairmakers: for lovers of handmade chairs and other furniture classices, as well as handmade leather bags.

To do.

Ride bikes (Flop House can recommend some great biking trails).

Wander along historic Piper Street - checking out all the stores mentioned above.

Check out the Farmers Market (2nd Saturday of the month from 8am-1pm). 

Picnic in the Kyneton Botanical Gardens.

Wander or bike along the Campaspe River trail.

Visit the Black-Hill Reserve - for a lovely nature experience (you are almost guaranteed to see kangaroos, and the giant granite rocks make for a spectacular picnic location). 

Visit the Flop House’s communal vegetable plot that is part of a new initiative by A Plot in Common (contact Flop House to arrange a visit).

Take side trips to:

daylesford (guide to follow)

castlemaine (guide to follow)

trentham (guide to follow) - but don't miss coffee and breakfast at our favourite, The Trentham Collective.

[spotlight series. kelly lack + kristen ewing]

[san francisco soundtrack. going to california]

Oh, San Francisco, you beautiful thing. We always liked you, a lot, but it was really on our most recent trip that we truly fell in love (perhaps it had something to do with the week-long sunshine, but in any case…). We love how compact you are (7miles x 7miles), but still how incredibly diverse, creative and inspiring you are as well. We love your many differing neighborhoods – all so close – but all so different. We love that every second person here describes themselves as a “burner” (regular Burning Man-goer, of course), and that good live music is so easy to find. And we love how naturally beautiful you are. We visited Ocean Beach for the first time, and then witnessed the sun setting over the Sutro Baths – feeling more like Ancient Greece than downtown California – it was then that we were sold. Not to mention how easy it is to get out of town – over the bridge, and up the coast (for oysters in Tomales Bay, through Point Reyes) and into wine country. You are a nature wonderland. You are wonderful. We like you a lot.

Here we list some (but not all) of our favorite things. There really are too many to mention! But this should get you started…

To caffeinate.

Along with Portland and Seattle, San Francisco is definitely home to some of the best coffee in the US. You are spoilt for choice here. We like…

Four barrel: one of our favorite brews. You can find their coffee at The Mill. We also love their roasting space in the Mission.

Sightglass: the coffee is good, and the space is exceptionally beautiful (those windows! Wow). We also loved the music playing the day we visited. We asked who the artist was, and turns out it was a local guy named Young Moon (keep an ear out – he’s good :) ). 

Blue bottle: lots of locations around town – we like the one downtown (in an old bank building) and the one in Oakland (see our Oakland guide).

St Frank: a beautiful light-filled space, with good coffee, and also a place to work (where wifi is available).

Ritual: a cute shipping container pop up in Hayes Street.

Front: this garage-esque space, in an industrial part of town, does a great coffee.

Hollow: more for the cute little green shopfront than anything else! So freaking adorable.

Samovar (tea): not coffee, but tea, in a stunning space. Try their signature chai.

To eat.

The Mill: for their big chunky, lusciously-topped toasts (and Four Barrel coffee). You can also take home loaves of their amazing bread. Look out also for their pizza nights on Mondays.

Lolo: a fun, colorful, buzzy space that’s great for ceviche and margaritas (two locations – both good).

Outerlands: for anything and everything. Outer Sunset. We love it here.

Nopa: a mainstay. Always great. Expect to wait if you don’t have a table reservation (can grab a seat at the bar). The burger is infamous. We love the fish.

Nopalito: for totopos and carnitas tacos. Cute neighborhood spot. 

Bar Agricole: for a fancy weekend brunch or dinner.

izakaya rintaro - quiet, tranquil little spot, hidden behind a big wooden fence (look out for the big number 82 painted in white). we love the miso black cod.

Flour and Water: for exceptional pasta. 

Central Kitchen/Salumeria: for a casual meat and cheese board (at Salumeria), or something delicious in the more formal restaurant.

Marios: for their meatball focaccia sandwich and homemade Campari.

Baretta: cosy, corner neighborhood spot doing exceptional cocktails and great homely Italian.

Craftsmen and wolves: for their “rebel within”. That’s all you need to know.

Pizza from pizzeria Delfina: the best spot on a sunny afternoon for pizza and prosecco. Sit in the sun, watch the world go by. You can also eat in the more formal restaurant part next door if you would prefer. Just down the road from our favorite supermarket (Bi-Rite) and ice cream shop.

Bi-rite creamery and supermarket: loveliest little gourmet supermarket around (specialising in local, organic and sustainable). Amazing produce. Great for grabbing picnic stuff and taking it to nearby dolores park (for long lazy days, people watching and stunning views of the city). Their ice creamy across the road is next level. We like the hard scoops and the soft serve as well. All so good. 

Zuni cafe: a SF institution (been around for 20+ years). Come here for Zuni’s roasted chicken and bread salad (and some oysters).

Tartine: probably the most famous bakery in the city. They serve Four Barrel coffee as well.

Mr holmes bakehouse: for Cronuts and other sweet things.

Plow: wood and white dining room. for breakfast.

Slanted door: in the ferry building. very san francisco. vietnamese. fresh and organic.

Zazie: in cole valley for cosy french bistro vibes.

20th Century cafe: on a sunny corner in Hayes Valley. For Eastern European-influenced eats.

Souvla: this was only newly opened when we visited last year. awesome souvlakis, big salads, and wait for it…olive oil and sea salt greek frozen yoghurt. omg. 

little gem: a new one in hayes valley - for healthy eats.

Green heart foods: for health-conscious eats in the mission. 

Cala: for mexican seafood.

Locanda: for their delicious gnocchi. 

Tosca’s: innovative and fresh italian from famed chef, april bloomfield. dark and moody. we like it here. great cocktails, too.

Trou Normand: if you are into meat. This place specialises in whole animal butchery! Try the Trou lamb burger.

Okoze: in Russian Hill. Eat at the sushi bar only. For dinner. Order scallops. And sake.

Blue Plate: in the mission. A bit of an institution. Come here for american comfort food.

Foreign Cinema: for california-inspired food and film screenings on their outdoor patio.

Foreign cinema: for foreign films.

To drink.

Lolo

Baretta

Trick Dog

Tosca’s

To shop.

General store: our favourite store in California (the one in Venice Beach used to be our local). Bright, light and airy, and full of amazing brands. It also comes with the most beautiful, sunny, cactus-filled courtyard and glasshouse out the back. The best.

Case for making: studio supplies for a creative life. Super cute bibs and bobs.

Gravel and gold: clothing, accessories, home goods.

Aggregate supply: literally an aggregate of three shops - Heliotrope, Turk + Taylor, and Acacia. Amoeba records

Heath ceramics.

The Perish Trust: a teeny tiny shop filled to the brim with vintage pieces and other random finds. 

Mollusk in Outer Sunset.

Hayes street: poke around the cute boutiques on this sunny street.

To do.

Golden gate park: absolutely huge, green and incredibly beautiful.

Sunset at sutro baths: dont miss this. Follow it up with dinner at Outerlands (in Outer Sunset).

Check out China Beach: peaceful, quiet and definitely one of SF’s hidden gems. Tucked in the Presidio across from Robin Williams’ old home (rip).

Picnic in Dolores: grab goodies from bi-rite first.

Check out the murals: they are everywhere.

Farmers market at the ferry building: touristy, but definitely worth a visit.

Catch a live show at the Fillmore.

Farmers markets: so many on offer.

Ferry to Sam’s (touristy, but fun) - oysters and wine.

Brunch at Salito’s. Amazing spot on the water in Sausalito. Order the crab omelette in a skillet.

Hike around Muir woods national monument.

Head up to wine country. Visit Sonoma. Spend a night at the Farmhouse Inn (see our separate guide) - an exquisite barn-like farmhouse property, set amongst the vineyards. 

Stop in Inverness - for oysters at Saltwater Oyster Bay, or Hogg Inn. And if you are lucky, spend a night at Mankas. Heaven.

To sleep.

Hotel G: we were so happy to stumble across this gorgeous boutique hotel on our most recent trip to the city. Located smack-bang in the heart of the city - one block west of union square - this 153-room boutique hotel fills up the very stylishly-refurbed 1909 Fielding building. With two restaurants and a gorgeous cocktail bar, Hotel G makes a very convenient base for exploring SF. We love the design - the old wooden and tile floors have been perfectly revamped - and we especially love the artwork. Hotel G has cleverly partnered with a San Francisco nonprofit arts centre for developmentally disabled adults called Creatively Explored. All the artwork you see - in the guest rooms and shared areas - is by these artists. And the best bit, the artwork is for sale, with all proceeds going directly back to Creatively Explored.

Other sleeping options:

Airbnb: one of the most beautiful Airbnbs we have ever stayed in. Beautiful design, exceptional location, and Zoe (a fellow Aussie!) is a kind, loving and energetic host. Look no further than this.

The Battery (boutique hotel/members club, right in the heart of downtown).

[kaua’i soundtrack. howling]

We didn't realize before visiting, but while on Kaua’i we learnt that the Hawaiian islands are the most remote islands in the world - the furtherest away from any continental land. Kaua’i, the ‘Garden Isle’, is the oldest of them all and has some of the most unique geographical natural beauty on any island on earth. Here you will find lush green jungle and mountains, pristine beaches, endless waterfalls, the jagged Na Pali coast, and even desert as well. Kaua’i’s Waimea Canyon is like a mini-version of the Grand Canyon. Its like a journey back in time; to prehistoric times. Full of raw natural beauty, it is hard not to fall in love with this magical place. Not only that, the aloha spirit gets under your skin.

We found so many things to love here. We could have set up shop and stayed awhile (a really long while)…but instead we are excited to share with you some of the favourite things we found in our short 4 days bopping around this island wonderland.

First though, a couple of (random) things we found interesting and some which took us by surprise:

- The roosters. Kaua’i has an insane amount of wild roosters!!! They are everywhere. And the little buggers crow ALL through the night. So be prepared.

- There is only one main road around the island, and it gets busy. Be prepared for it to take a lot longer to get anywhere than you might have first thought.

- We were a little shocked to learn that four of the biggest chemical companies are based here on the island. About 90% of industrial GMO corn grown in the US was originally developed in Hawaii, and Kauai has always hosted the biggest area. The good news though is that there is a small pocket of the North Shore who are trying to promote a non-GMO island. They are currently working towards banning all GMO products - and there is a real focus on healthy living and living sustainable off the island (currently the island still imports 90% of its goods).

- There is a little local bird we loved called the red-crested cardinal, which can be identified by its (surprise, surprise) red head; we also found some cute geckos as well - the gold dust day gecko (a bright green or yellowish green colour, and sometimes even in blue).

To eat/drink.

North Shore.

Sushi girl: a totally awesome find (thanks for the reco, Eddi) - a tiny little hole-in-the-wall sushi joint sandwiched between a couple of shops on the road to the Na Pali Coast State Park. The perfect place to stop for a quick lunch to-go before or after your hike. Fresh and delicious Japanese maki rolls, wraps and salads with fresh ahi tuna. The serves are big (we ordered the kids maki roll and it was huge).

Healthy hut: for everything! We love it here. We would stop by each day for healthy snacks, juices, even some organic wine (and the taco truck next door is good if you are just wanting a quick and cheap dinner on the run. We had a grilled fish taco and the carne asada taco and they were both pretty good - the meat one definitely better though). 

Barracuda: for a really beautiful tapas dinner. Grab a seat at the bar (but get there early, they open at 5:30pm but there will likely be a queue out the door from 5pm). They do also take reservations though if you are wanting a table.

Hanalei Bread: for seriously good artisanal sourdough bread. We were so happy to find this place. The bread is delicious and just the way we like it. They do a decent coffee and good breakfasts as well.

Harvest Market Hanalei: a great health food store for smoothies, salads, and a whole bunch of organic, gluten-free, raw and local products.

Lighthouse Bistro: the setting is nothing to write home about, but the food is pretty good. Come here especially for their free-range pork steak (another good reco thanks Eddi).

Kapaa.

Mermaids: for their ahi nori wrap (seared ahi, brown rice, cucumber, nori, wasabi cream and shoyu, rolled in a spinach wrap). Open until 9pm.

Kalalea Juice Hale: this became our daily fix. The cutest little orange food stand just off the main road heading north out of Kapaa. Family-run and super friendly, come here for their Acai bowls and delicious smoothies (with homemade nut and coconut milks).

Kauai Juice Co: for great organic, cold-pressed juices in cute glass bottles. Two locations: Kapaa (next to Rainbow Living Foods), and Kilauea (right by Metamorphous Yoga). 

Rainbow Living Foods: for all things local, organic, vegan, gluten-free and raw. Fresh juices and smoothies, local coconuts, kale salads, raw falafel, and delicious raw desserts. Closes at 5pm.

Wishing Well shaved ice truck: for coconuts, smoothies, ace bowls and shaved ice.

Java Kai: a cute cafe that is connected to the Shipwrecked lifestyle boutique next door (we like to sit on the tables out the front of Shipwrecked). We tried their ‘power’ bowl one morning and it definitely filled a gap. Juices, smoothies and sweet stuff as well.

Hukilau Lanai: come here if you are in the mood for some old-school Hawaiian. Using local ingredients and products from Kaua’i and the other neighbour islands. We were needing a meat fix and were recommended their filet mignon. Delicious. 

Hoku Foods Natural Market: this is another really great healthy and organic food store, perfect if you are in need of some fresh produce, healthy snacks, drinks, or raw food.

Lihue.

Ha Coffee Bar: in Lihue, for undoubtedly the best coffee on the island. Worth driving 20mins from Kapaa for. Owner Jeff, ex-Seattle, even serves an 8oz cup. We were VERY happy to find this place.

Anatta’s Authentic Thai: this food truck was such a lovely surprise. We were wanting a quick and easy dinner while we were in the area and found this place on Yelp. Holed up in the ACE Hardward parking lot, these lovely Thai women make really tasty, really authentic thai dishes. Fresh, delicious and super cheap.

Koloa.

Eating House: traditional and modern, locally-sourced asian-inspired food.

Pizzetta: we stumbled across this place by accident one night when we were coming back from Waimea Canyon. We were on our way to Eating House, but ended up going here instead. Craving a spaghetti bolognese, we grabbed a seat at the bar and were suitably impressed with the authentic bowl of pasta that was put down in front of us. A decent selection of beer and wine as well. The pizza looked totally legit, and the gelato was also great.

Other stuff…

The Scorpacciata pizza truck. We never made managed to find this pizza shop on wheels before leaving the island, but oh how we wanted to. If you look at their Instagram you will soon see that their neapolitan-style pizzas look completely authentic and amazing. Using only local ingredients, they do breakfast and lunch pizzas only. 

To shop.

Shipwrecked: this cute lifestyle store next to Java Kai is full of cute summer clothes, swimwear, jewelry and our favourite (Australian-made) clutches by @happytiff.

Kiko Kauai: for “simple goods”. Homewares, cards, gifts and other random bits and pieces…tucked down a laneway off the main street of Kapaa.

Hunter Gatherer: this is a gorgeous, cosy store in Kilauea full of eclectic art, homewares, jewelry, books, letterpress stationary, and other local artisan gifts. Its a really cute space.

Check out the Friday market at Warehouse 3540: held in Lawai on every Friday from 9am-1pm. A bunch of different vendors including those selling fresh produce, coffee, clothing, and food (the pizza truck might be there)!

Farmers Markets: there are so many amazing farmers markets on the island - pretty much a different one on every day. Check out tastinekauai.com for the weekly line-up. We loved the one in Waipea on Tuesday afternoon.

To do.

First things first, rent a car. It is essential here for getting around the island. It would be impossible without one.

Hike: there are endless options, but don’t miss the infamous Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast - an 11 mile trail that takes you from Ke’e Beach (at “the end of the road”) to Kalalau Beach along the Na Pali Coast. The trail traverses 5 valleys before ending at Kalalau Beach where it is blocked by sheer and rugged cliffs. If you are just wanting a short day hike, take the 2 mile trail to Hanakapi’ai beach (it took us 45mins each way). The scenery is absolutely, mind-blowingly spectacular. The trail is dusty (and often muddy), steep in parts, and so incredibly beautiful. Otherwise, pack a bag, check out the camping permits, and stay awhile. Camping is only allowed at Hanakoa or Kalalau. 

Check out all the beaches…some of our favorites include Secret Beach, Molooa Bay, Ke’e beach.

Take a helicopter ride over Waimea Canyon State Park. Or drive up into the canyon around sunset. Often described as ‘the grand canyon of the pacific’, it might not be as big or as old as its Arizona cousin, but we found it to be just as enchanting. Stretching 14 miles long, one mile wide and more than 3,600 feet deep, the views here are over rugged rocky cliffs, deep valley gorges and tumbling waterfalls. Its breathtaking. There are some great hikes you can do around here as well. We recommend doing any of the trails between mile marker 14 and 18 (you will see cars parked on the side of the road near these areas). You will hike through forrest and then pop out into the canyon. Amazing! And if you are lucky, you will also stumble across a waterfall or two.

Surf. Again, plenty of options. But Poipu Beach or Hanalei Bay are probably the most popular.

Swim at Wailua Falls.

Yoga in Hanalei (Yoga Hanalei) and Kilauea (Metamorphose).

Eat acai. And lots of it. And shave ice. And poke. And try as many food truck as possible (our favourite ones are listed above).

Visit Anaina Hou (meaning “a new gathering place”): 500 acres of land in Kilauea that was purchased by Bill Porter, the E-Trade founder, and his wife Joan back in 2004. Bill (who sadly passed away last October) funneled generous portions of his fortune into businesses and nonprofits benefiting organic farming, recreation and community building on the North Shore of Kaua’i. Within Anaina Hou you will find the serene Stone Dam,  a 5-mile Wai Koa Loop hiking trail, a skate park, playground, nursery and also (the crown jewel) an 18-hole miniature gold course. Not your average mini gold course, this is one that blends water hazards and other tricky terrain with a tour of Hawaiian ecology and culture in the lush botanical garden setting. You can rent bikes and tour the farm. There are 3 waterfalls scattered around the property. Buddhist statues. A thatched balinese hut. And you can also visit their organic and hydroponic salad greens farm. Its a beautiful place to visit.

Another hidden favourite (that you definitely wont find on the tourist map) is the Kauai Dharma buddhist sanctuary. Tucked away at the bottom of a lush green hill somewhere between Kapaa and Kilauea, we were lucky to get a tip off about this special place from our host Eddi at The Palmwood. We would have otherwise never found it on our own. A place for peace and calm, this is a magical place in the middle of the forrest. A beautiful Buddhist stupa (which the Dalai Lama has visited) sits amongst the pretty grounds.

To sleep.

The Palmwood: one of the most magical guesthouses we have so far had the privilege of enjoying. Firstly, it’s on Kauai (enough said really). Secondly, the setting is absolutely enchanting. The 3-suite guesthouse is set high up on a ridge (between the towns of Kapaa and Kilauea), overlooking lush green jungle and coconut palms, with uninterrupted views of the mountains. And thirdly, The Palmwood is run by the ever-so-lovely ‘Aunty’ Eddi and her son Mychael (both kind, friendly and exceptional cooks). There is a true feeling of warmth and aloha here. Eddi (an American of Korean heritage) grew up in Japan and this, she says, influenced her diet and cooking. She grew up on a healthy and organic diet, and this too is what she therefore brought her family up on - nothing processed, always fresh, local, seasonal, sugar-free foods. Eddi's daily breakfasts reflect this. You can taste the love that goes into her cooking. Every day, something different; something healthy; and something beautiful-looking. On our first day, Eddi had bought blue oyster mushrooms from her neighbors (who call themselves “fun guys mushrooms”) and together with organic kale from her garden, some bacon, parmesan and oven-roasted tomatoes, Eddi made an incredible open-faced omelette. Following that was a pretty looking fruit salad made from grated apple, banana, macadamia nuts, local honey and sesame seeds. We also had a fresh berry smoothie. Thinking it could surely not get any better on day two, we were quickly mistaken. Eddi served us organic scrambled eggs with homemade Kona crab cakes, roasted tomatoes and a kale (from the garden) and apple salad. Following that, a sweet dish of roasted organic pairs, figs and a grilled banana, in a ginger and coconut reduction, with yoghurt. It was mind-blowing stuff. Breakfast is served from 8am-9am, but Eddi has the tea and coffee brewing from 6:30am for those who like to start the day a little earlier (and the roosters might make sure that’s the case). Formerly a very senior banker in LA, Eddi enjoys a much slower pace now. Healthy eating and healthy living are her passion. As is her family. We had so many interesting conversations, and Eddi was a constant source of fantastic local recommendations - helping curate and tailor our days to include hidden and off-the-beaten-track local favourites. So many of the amazing things we found can be attributed to Eddi’s suggestions. It wasn't easy though. Always torn between wanting to get out and explore the island as much as possible, but also wanting to stay and chill and enjoy the peacefulness and the magic of this special place. We became addicted to the light at sunrise, and then again at dusk - full of beauty and magic. You feel a million miles away from anything here. And its wonderful. The Palmwood left a huge impression on us and we cant wait to return.

If The Palmwood happens to be full, check out the Hanalei Surfboard House as another option.

[o'ahu soundtrack. your rocky spine]

We were pretty damn excited when Jetstar invited us to go with them to Hawaii last week. An easy 10ish hour direct flight from Melbourne to Honolulu, we would be there in no time. On a mission to find some beautiful off-the-beaten track places and things, we were pumped. Hawaii had always been high on our travel wishlist (well, Kauai anyway), but we had still never been.

So we were excited, yes, but admittedly a little nervous as well. Didn't Oahu just equal Honolulu which equaled Waikiki which equaled some kind of Disneyland meets Vegas/Cancun-touristy wonderland??? We were worried that there might not be too much to find beyond the ritzy beachfront resorts and a sea of Hawaiian shirts…

How wrong we were.

Not only did we fall madly in love with the North Shore (hello hot surfers, big waves, chilled vibes, and delicious food trucks and farm stands)…but Honolulu stole our heart as well. With so many cool little pockets, there are fun adventures to be had everywhere - culturally, in the arts, in nature, and on the food scene as well. Jogging along the Waikiki beachfront path at sunrise (or sunset) was pretty hard to beat as well.

We love the way the locals use the mountains and the ocean as a point of reference. When asking for directions for example, you might be told something is MAUKI (mountain side) or MAKAI (ocean side). They use Diamond Head (on the east) and Ewa (a town on the west) as well, “its the Diamond Head side of Cook St”. People here are incredibly friendly. They truly appreciate how lucky they are to live in such an idyllic island paradise. 

The iconic Royal Hawaiian (where all our pink dreams came true) and the Halekulani (if you’re in the mood for fancy, pop up to the very formal Le Mer for a pre-dinner cocktail) were our pick of the beachfront hotel bunch.

Here are some more of other favourite things (and hopefully enough to get you started)...

HONOLULU.

To eat/ drink.

ARVO: a brand new, bright and friendly space. We love it here. A super sweet aussie/Hawaiian couple doing really good Aussie-style coffee (serving Sightglass from San Francisco) and toast - they even do avo and vegemite. they share their space with a beautiful flower store, paiko, in kaka’ako - the arts district of honolulu. 

Marukame udon: the thread of Japanese culture has been tightly woven into Hawaiian culture, and as a result, the Japanese food here is some of the best you will ever eat. Marukame Udon is a Waikiki institution. Known for its handmade and freshly cooked udon, you’ve got to get here early. The queues become massive and wind all the way down the street. We like going bang on 7am for breakfast (trust me).

For poké (hawaiian raw fish salad - the most common kind is tuna - don't confuse it with sashimi, tartare, or ceviche though!): found a great spot (a recommendation from the young kid at the bike rental shop) called Ono Seafood in Kaimuki. It was a 20min bike ride from Waikiki beach and its a tiny hole-in-the-wall kind of place in a parking lot. No frills, but the ahi is fresh and cheap. Also try 21 Mart - a bit further out - but its renowned as having the freshest of fresh fish. Ask for the Hawaiian style poke. They don't mix it until you order (unlike most of the others). And for those who are not familiar, Ahi poke is an amazing combination of tuna, soy sauce, sea salt, green onions, maui onions and limu.

Peace Cafe: for breakfast, lunch or dinner - friendly, vegan and wholesome. we loved our nori bowl - black rice, sautéed greens, coconut kale, beans, tahini and sprouts. We hear the Kinako (a japanese powder) iced latte and avocado sandwich are both good as well.

Brue bar: before we found arvo, we found Brue bar. With a couple of locations around town, they do a decent coffee as well. 

Any of Ed Kenney's restaurants in Kaimuki. We ate at TOWN (the food was amazing - order the gnocchi), but we preferred the feel of Mud Hen Water across the road. It has a cute fairy-lit outdoor courtyard. Kaimuki Superette is next to that, and is daytime only.

Kim Chee 2: for cheap and cheerful, no-frills bibimbap (next to Peace cafe).

Lucky Belly: a relative newie in Chinatown. Go for the ramen. Fun vibe.

L’aperitif: the fancy cocktail in La Mer, upstairs at the Halekulani hotel. Its quite formal, so leave your flip flops and t-shirts behind.

Wing ice cream: for delicious handmade ice cream (We like the vegan flavors best) with not-so friendly vibes!

Musubi & Bento Iyasume: for a quick bite on the run. This was our favourite hole-in-the-wall find. Super fresh (the rice is still warm) japanese rice balls - pick your filling (we like salmon) and then wrap in nori. They do a few bowls as well. Cute and friendly.

Pig and the Lady: try the pho french dip sandwich, and the sprouting seed salad.

Livestock Tavern: american plates and classic cocktails in chinatown.

Beerworks: a microbrewery in kakaako. Plenty of beer and good vibes.

Pioneer Saloon: a really cute Japanese spot (think big windows and lots of potted plants) in Diamond Head that does great ramen burgers.

Diamond Head Cove Health Bar: for great salads, smoothies and big cups of acai.

Sunny Days (next to the Diamond Head Cove Health bar): for an absolutely gorgeous and sunny cafe doing great breakfast and lunch food.

To shop.

MONO: a well-curated design store with books, bags (fallraven), and japanese notebooks and stationary.

Paiko Flowers: a beautiful flower shop (which shares its space with ARVO coffee).

Chinatown: a fun place to wander. There are a bunch of cute stores. We like Owens and Co.

Creative Nails: if you need a mani/pedi…this no-frills nail bar in Diamond Head did a great job, and waxing as well. 

To do.

Diamond head crater hike: this is a steep, but simple hike that is less about nature and more about the views (back over Waikiki). It gets pretty hot, so take a hat and water.

Likeke Falls hike: for a beautiful waterfall hike hidden deep in the rainforest (its 4miles return).

Rent a surfboard, paddle board or bikes.

Check out Lana Lane Studios: an artist collective in Kakaako full of designers, fine artists, photographers, videographers and more. Amazing street art in the nearby laneways as well.

NORTH SHORE.

To eat/drink.

Elephant truck: for thai. This was our favourite food truck on the North Shore. Some of the best thai we have had. 

Haleiwa Acai Bowl: for awesome acai bowls out of a cute little beach shack hut.

Pukukea Grill food truck: for their ahi tuna poke bowl.

Acai from the Brazilian food truck opposite Pipeline beach.

Giovanni's Shrimp Truck for their shrimp scampi plate (add a side of hot sauce).

Bonzai Sushi: for really fresh and delicious sushi in a little Haleiwa strip mall.

Celestial Natural Foods (a gorgeous and cosy health food store), and the beet box cafe: for healthy lunches, juices and smoothies.

To do.

Surf (if you’re really good, or brave). Or just watch instead. Mind-blowing stuff.

Check out the local farmers markets and farm stands. They’re everywhere.

Hit up the food trucks.

Hang on Sunset Beach - our favorite.

Watch the gun surfers at Pipeline.

Paddleboard.

Swim at waimea beach, quieter and more calm.

Yoga (a few different options around Haleiwa).

EAST SHORE.

We headed east to Kailua to hike the Lanikai Pillbox trail. We only had half a day there, but found a few cute things.

To eat/drink.

Nalu Bowls in Kailua (funnily the same name as our favorite acai bowl spot in bali) -same kind of deal. Acai bowls, smoothies, salads and other healthy stuff.

Wholefoods: one of our favourite places in the world, haha. This is a small one, but perfect if you need to grab some snacks, a smoothie, or a lunch on the run.

To shop.

Oliver: this tiny little men’s store is perfect. Jam-packed full of some of our favourite brands, its a must-stop when passing through Kailua.

Olive: the little sister to Oliver. This is their women’s version.

Aloha Beach Club: great street wear, and a little coffee counter as well.

To do.

Hike pillbox trail: the trailhead starts in the backstreets of Kailua and takes you up a steep rocky climb to some amazing views over Lanikai Beach. Dont stop at the first pillbox. Dont even stop at the second. Keep hiking up. The trail goes on for miles.

[bingin soundtrack. sugar]

On the western side of the Bukit peninsula (just 45mins south of Bali's Denpasar airport) lies Bingin Beach. This quiet and enchanting pocket of the Bukit quickly became our favorite place on the island. Sheer cliffs that swamp lush green vegetation and coral reefs, stretch far and wide, straddling a spectacular beach - white sand, and clear turquoise water (so different from not even comparable to the beaches further north in Seminyak and Canggu). Home to one of the Bukit’s classic surf breaks (we heard it being called “one of the most beautiful waves in the world”), you scramble down a whole bunch of steep and dusty stairs to reach this paradise. Charming little Warungs and guesthouses dot the cliffs and the beach itself. You can surf. You can swim. You can paddleboard. You can do absolutely nothing at all. We loved getting up at sunrise, walking the beach while the tide was out, around to nearby Padang Padang (best before the crowds arrive).

We found our Bingin days to go mainly like this: eating a homemade Balinese breakfast at our villa (this was by far the best nasi goring we had on the trip), followed by morning yoga at The Temple Lodge (the most magical and mystical place of all) - and breakfast (if we hadn't already had it back at the villa) of their insanely good raw muesli with homemade cashew nut milk, followed by smoothies at the Cashew Tree, beach time at Bingin (or we would jump on the scooter to cruise around to our other favorite spot (near Thomas Homestay) - now this is paradise), a bit of paddleboarding or surfing for a bit, then lunch at one of the beach warungs (we love Sun Surf Stay for their nasi goring and Swamis for their hobo salad), followed by massages and facials ($17…whattt???) at Mick’s Place (followed by snacks of organic Balinese chocolate or popsicles - details below!) and a swim in their infinity pool, and then aperitivo at MU (they even do apertivo snacks like you would find in italy like mini bruschetta and roasted peanuts), and dinner most likely back at the Cashew Tree for one of their soul bowls (or maybe The Temple Lodge). You really don't need to leave a 500m square radius all day! Its all there. And its all absolutely magic. 

To eat.

The Cashew Tree: for breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. This is a must (and only 100m walk from the Fraser Baye villa if you are staying there). They do amazing, healthy vegan and vegetarian meals. Its a big, spacious outdoor set up. Lots of comfy bean bags and different little seating nooks to choose from. They do a mean Acai bowl, some super wholesome soul bowls for lunch and dinner, beautiful salads, amazing smoothies and so much more. We love their frozen margaritas as well. Oh and their brown rice nasi goreng. So damn good. Thursday nights are always a fun hang too. Live music sometimes, and yoga too.

Fraser Baye: the super sweet staff here at the villa get extremely excited to prepare breakfast for you each morning. there is no obligation to eat there, but their food is so authentic and delicious and really shouldn't be missed. their nasi goring was the best one we had all trip. great fresh juices as well.

The Temple Lodge: we are totally in love with this magical place. Walking in, you feel like you’re entering the magic faraway tree or somewhere equally as mystical. Through hanging vines and gorgeous flowers, you arrive at a cute little dining area around the pool, with stunning views over the cliffs to the ocean. We had our favorite post-yoga breakfast here - a raw muesli bowl that was filled with grated apple, raw granola and topped with dragon fruit and honey - covered in homemade cashew nut milk. when we ran out of milk, we kindly requested some more. taking awhile to come out, we could hear a blender working frantically in the background, and we then realized that the cashews were actually being blended then and there to be turned into milk. Fresh to order! We almost wet our pants with excitement. such a special touch. italian-owned and run, the food here is healthy and delicious. we only wish we had have had time to try their dinner menu as well, which changes daily. 

MU: we never got around to trying their dinners, but the daily set menu always looked pretty amazing. French-owned, this place is full of charm and is perfectly located on the cliffs. The views are spectacular and they do a delicious fresh juice or cocktail (we love their aperitivo snacks that come out in time for your sundowner).

Sun Surf Stay: for really, really good Balinese food. We love this place smack bang on Bingin Beach. Super friendly vibes. Cheap rooms (from $40 a night). Great food. Its simple done well - light, bright, breezy, beachy perfect.

Mick’s Place: we came here to check out their amazing day spa (on the back of a reco from Fraser Baye) and while doing so found (and fell madly in love with) a balinese brand of organic dark chocolate. so much so, we looked into importing it back to australia!!! thick, dark, and really textural (with a coconut and almond butter base, and full of almonds and some spices as well). its amazing! we would stop past Mick's each day to stock up again. you can also find it at the bali buda health food stores. try some! the other snack we discovered at mick’s were the #madpopsbali. now officially our favorite popsicle brand, they not only have a very cool website (madpopsbali.com) but they make awesomely delicious flavours like banana/dark chocolate, raspberry/dark chocolate, mango/ coconut, coffee coconut/vegan chocolate crunch, and mango/banana/dragon fruit. so good.

Bukit Cafe: owned by a friendly Australian/Brazilian couple - come here for smoothies, salads and other good stuff. Its on the main road between Bingin and Padang Padang.

swamis: another one of the beach front Warungs (“great surf, yummy eats, clean rooms”) the food here is organic, vegan, healthy, vegetarian, gluten-free, and raw!!! Try the hobo salad.

Kelly’s Warung: another beachfront warung and a bit of a surf institution. Check out the Pitaya bowls and watch the waves.

Bumba Bali: not in Bingin, but (as recommended by Fraser Baye) ask their driver Wayan to take you to Nusa Dua for a very real-deal balinese feast at Bumba Bali. Only 25mins drive, the food here is traditional and authentic. They also run unreal cooking daystaking you to the market early int he morning to buy all the ingredients. If you eat meat, be sure to try the sweet soy port and the young chicken wrapped in banana leaf.

To drink.

MU: our favorite place for a sundowner. We would come here each night for our campari spritz overlooking the ocean at sunset. Its beautiful here. Great little bar snacks as well. One night we met the cutest little 3 year old girl there - bronzed, blue-eyed, and the whitest of blondes - "Poppy" was such a character, so full of wit and charm and intelligence and humor (at only 3!). A wise little thing. We were loving eavesdropping on her conversations with her dad and his friend in the pool. 

The Cashew Tree (always): for their frozen margaritas (or just a healthy juice, smoothie or coconut).

Suarga: on the road out of Bingin, just before the Padang Padang bridge, is this pretty spectacular looking restaurant/hotel. Having only recently opened, it took five years to build. The bamboo structure - the largest on the island - is completely sustainable and very impressive. The bar and restaurant here is definitely on the more fancy side of things, but its worth checking out - for the structure alone, and some pretty lovely sunset views. We hear the villas are amazing as well.

El Kabron: if you like gin, this is your place. the vibes are somewhat strange, but the paella is amazing and their gin menu is mind-blowing (but not cheap). Great for sunset drinks and dinner.

To do.

Yoga: so many options. We loved our 8am morning class at The Temple Lodge (the open-air space is stunning). The same teacher then takes a 9:30am class in the open-air Shala at MU. The Cashew Tree also sometimes holds a morning class (but the teacher was away when we visited).

Surf. Obviously.

SUP: we rented a board from one of the Warungs on Bingin Beach. Its a fun ride if the swell isn't too big!

Massage: again, lots of options. But we absolutely loved our facial at the day spa at Mick’s Place. For only $17, its a steal!! The open-air treatment room, smack bang on the cliffs, looks out over the ocean. Its amazing.

Padang Padang Beach: always nice (if not a bit busy sometimes) for a bit of a hang time during the day. A little cove where a stream flows into the sea. Park your scooter in the carpark off to the left of the main road, and grab a piece of grilled corn on your way down to the beach. Good surfers flock here for the tubes.

And check out some of the quieter, more untouched beaches nearby: the impossibles (between Bingin and padang padang) - for its outside reef break, balangan (so pretty), and dreamland (for surfers, this is a short, sharp right break and a longer more tubular left!). ha. i probably sound like i know what i am talking about???!!!

To shop.

Bali Buda: our favourite little Balinese health food store. With a few locations, there is one not too far from Bingin on the road back to Jimbaran Bay. Buda means Wednesday in Balinese, “just as good a day as any other to begin a business”. A supplier of organic food and other conscious living products, Bali Buda makes delicious wholesome bread (and cakes and pastries) each morning, plus a whole host of other insanely healthy stuff. They also stock our favourite chocolate! And plenty of kombucha and kefir drinks as well.

Innika choo (@innika): this was another favorite tip-off by the team at Fraser Baye (terima kasihhhhhh). innika’s dresses are not only beautiful (and so totally up our alley!!), but her photos are amazing as well. Her children make for the most gorgeous and unassuming models, and her shoots are always jam-packed full of color and patterns and fun. One of our new favorite instagram feeds for sure.

To sleep.

Fraser Baye: this is the most perfect sleeping option for a group. two lovely villas on the same leafy property, surrounding a cute pool (you can book both at the same time, or just one if you would prefer). there’s a gorgeous little poolside kitchen, which is staffed all day and acts as your own private cafe. the local girls who work there are sublimely sweet and friendly. their food is fresh and delicious. we loved their generous and healthy fruit platters each morning, their fresh juices and smoothies, and my favorite - their nasi goring (for breakfast). the villas themselves are two-story, and light, bright and spacious. the bathroom and living areas are all outdoors - we loved showering outside each morning, and jumping in the big stone bath! its amazing. it might not be bang on the cliffs, but its only a short 500m walk down from there down to the beach…and even better, its pretty much right next door to the cashew tree. a great sleeping option. we loved our time there.

If its just two of you, we would recommend any of the cliffside options: Mick's (check out their honeymoon suite), MU (likewise, ask to see their honeymoon suite, or the suite that's built into the cliff-face itself), The Temple Lodge (pure magic), Sun Surf Stay (beachfront and crazy cheap), and another favorite of ours, the all-white, all bright, hidden little beachfront spot, Sal Secret Spot. Just remember though, for the guest houses on the beach (Sun Surf Stay, Sal's etc.) you will have to carry your luggage and boards down a million and one steep dusty stairs...so keep that in mind when packing. Soft shoulder bags better than wheelie suitcases for this one, thats for sure.

And finally…if you are looking for a really really budget option, we can recommend the Bingin Inn. We ended up staying here very randomly and very last-minute when we decided to return to Bingin for an extra night, and everything else was full. We were in a cab driving past and it looked quite leafy and cute, so we stopped and asked about rooms. For $25, you get a simple, clean room. You can also rent scooters for $6 a day. And there is even a little pool. Its basic, but its friendly and its on the road to Bingin - so its close to all our favourite things.

Bingin, we love you.

[canggu soundtrack. give it all]

Before arriving in Bali we were told by more than one friend that Canggu is probably the hippest (as much as we don't love that word) place to be right now. In amongst the lush green rice paddies, and between all the awesome waves,  are tonnes of young, fun, interesting and creative people - from all over the world - who are flocking here to live the good life in this friendly corner of Bali. There is definitely a good energy here. We felt it immediately. So much so, that after spending our first night there…we then made sure our last couple of days would be spent here too. Only 20mins from busy Seminyak (far too busy and built up for us), Canggu is much quieter and less developed (so far, anyway). There are stacks of healthy and amazing food places, great coffee joints, cute interior stores, boutiques, old refurbed motorbikes, surf shops, bars, yoga studios and plenty of massage places to be found. We like the vibe here, a lot. 

Here are some of our favorite things:

To caffeinate.

Crate: seriously good coffee, the way we like it at home (in melbourne). Friendly vibes and always busy. Amazing food as well. Open every day from 7am-3pm.

Peloton: only two months old, but so slick and professional it feels like they've been there forever. The coffee (by Revolver) is good, really good. They are vegan here though - so don't come looking for cow’s milk! Try their coconut milk latte. Delicious.

Quince: our all-time favorite Canggu find. Run by the most delightful Australian/Balinese couple, Quince is not only aesthetically stunning…but every single thing that comes out of their loving kitchen will blow your mind. The love that goes into each coffee can be tasted in every sip. This is a really special place, and our absolute favourite.

To eat.

Betelnut: we ate here three times in three days! We cant get enough of this place. A rustic two story restaurant that is packed to the rafters every night. Its healthy, its amazingly fresh and delicious, and its crazy affordable. We love their Gado Gado, their Nasi Campur, their great salads, and their wraps. Try their delicious fresh juices and their raw desserts as well. In fact, try everything on the menu. We love it here.

Peloton: try this awesome new vegan cafe/artisan cycling store/event space for some seriously delicious, fresh and healthy vegan food. We love their Pantani Porridge (coconut and quinoa porridge served with sautéed banana, berry coulis, coco-nut nectar, fresh strawberries, and toasted coconut flakes) for breakfast, and their Fuel Good salad for lunch (Kale, Spinach, Purple Cabbage, Capsicum, Broccoli, Mild Chillies, Carrot, Beetroot, Green Onion, Toasted Pumpkin & Sunflower Seeds, Sesame, Smashed Pumpkin and Hummus.

Crate: for coffee, breakfast and lunch. Its not only the coffee that is delicious here. Try their delicious (and big) breakfasts. We loved all their breakfast bowls (and their hilarious names). The egg dishes looked amazing as well. Its always busy and vibey and fun.

Quince: for their EVERYTHING - but especially for their coffee, their homemade lemonade, their quinoa porridge and their chicken baguettes (the best french baguette you will have this side of paris!). And their lovely chats.

Roti shop: we actually ran out of time to try this cute spot, but we hear its quite the bomb. We like roti. We like curry. And they apparently do both exceptional well. Very legit we hear. You might even think you’re in Sri Lanka. Worth a shot.

Bu Mi: get to this buffet type set-up on Batu Balong really early if you want to nab the freshest and best selection of their daily food offering. Traditional and delicious balinese options - we love their nasi campur. 

Boulangerie Paris Baguette: now this - a french bakery in the heart of bali - was another one of our favorite local finds (and one we are somewhat reluctant to share)!!! A little slice of Paris in Canggu, seriously. We were given the tip-off by Michelle and Armed - the kind folk at Quince - as these are the baguettes they use for their lunch menu. So perfectly french (the owner apparently imports the flour from France), their baguettes are crunchy on the outside and soft, chewy (and hopefully still warm) on the inside. They are honestly heaven. Get there early - you wont want to miss out. And make sure you try the homemade baguettes at Quince as well - like i said earlier - they will not only be so aesthetically pleasing on your eye, you will also be able to taste the love in the incredible ingredients and delicious combos Michelle and Armen put together.

To drink.

Old Man’s: for beachy vibes at sunset. Head here for a sundowner and a bit of live music if you’re lucky. 

Lacalita Bar y Cocina: this super bright and colourful bar on Batu Bolong caught our eye on the first day we were bopping around Canggu. All open-air and delightfully welcoming, Lacalita Bar y Cocina is a fun and friendly mexican joint (and sister to Seminyak’s Lacalaca Cantina Mexicana) that does a seriously mean Jalapeño Margarita.

The Deus Temple of Enthusiasm: for a drink on Sundays. This motorbike workshop/surfshop shaping house/gallery/bar/retail store has live music on Sundays and good vibes. 

La Laguna: another one that we ran out of time to test out, but we hear its a bit of a boho beach bar kind of situation and one worth checking out. 

To do.

Massage: day and night. On repeat. Our favorite (but certainly not fancy) massage was at the Canggu Day Spa - a very little and unassuming place on Batu Balong. Its not fancy, but our 1hr massage was heavenly (and only 100,000 rp or AUD10). Ask for Iluh. All the girls there are just the biggest darlings. They do a mean mani and pedi as well (for 170,000 or AUD17).

Another great option is Gold Dust. We didn't get a chance to try it, but we hear their 24K Gold Leaf facial is an absolutely heavenly indulgence.

Massage at Desa Seni: now this is a dreamy experience. Desa Seni is just a dream to begin with, but the spa itself is so lovely. Wonderful therapists and lovely, simple treatment rooms. You choose your oil at the beginning of the massage and then enter into an hour of bliss. Try their signature treatment, its brilliant.

Private massage with Era from Pineapple House: another awesome option. If you are lucky enough to snag a room at the Pineapple House, you might also be lucky enough to lock in a massage with lovely Era. 

Yoga: so many options. We really enjoyed our class at Serenity. We also did a great Hatha 101 class (with Antonio) at Desa Seni. And don't miss Rachel’s (from Pineapple House) yin yoga class at Bali Fit (and if you are brave, do one of their other workouts below - see below). 

Surf (of course). Not much to add here. Go down to Echo Beach. Get a board. Try your luck.

Workout at Bali Fit: we walked past this Aussie-owned gym on the first day we were in Canggu and admittedly we were a little frightened by what we saw. This is hardcore. But if you are brave, get in there and try one of their infamous workouts (we hear the hurricane session is the one to go for).

To shop.

You will find lots of cute little boutiques along Batu Balong. We bought a cute beachy dress from Melbourne designer Shakahachi. Deus has lots of great tees for guys. Closer to Batu Belig, our favourite store is Quince - for all things home and textiles (not only that, it is home to our favorite cafe as well).

To sleep.

Hotel Tugu: this is our favourite place to stay in canggu. Perfectly located at the very end of Batu Balong, right on canggu beach, this romantic hotel has an old-world charm and is filled with Indonesian antiquities. Its 22 villas and suites, bursting with colour and character, are set amongst lush green gardens and lotus ponds. The service here is incredible. Staff are so attentive and kind. On arrival, not only were we offered a welcome drink of our choice, but we were also gifted with a beautifully handmade flower arrangement (so cute!). There was a little welcome note waiting for us on our arrival into our room, and we were also offered a complimentary head and shoulder massage shortly after checking in. The location could not be more perfect. Opposite Old Man’s (a great spot for sundowners), right on the beach, and only 5-10mins walk up Batu Balong to all our favourite cafes and stores. This is our first choice when choosing somewhere to stay in Canggu.

Desa Seni: is an absolutely gorgeous and relaxed village resort set amongst the green rice fields of Canggu. A true cultural experience, and one that showcases all things eco, organic, health and wellness. There is a lovely energy here. Choose from all sorts of cute and charming accommodation houses (traditional “joglo” and “gladak” houses), do some incredible and uplifting yoga classes (multiple times daily) in one of their open-air yoga shalas, eat in their deliciously healthy and organic cafe, and try out some of their beautiful spa treatments at their onsite spa. Its a really lovely bali experience (just make sure you rent a scooter, as its quite far from the beach and all the action on Batu Balong).

Pineapple House (“rumah Nanas”): we loved finding this laid-back and super friendly beachy retreat on our last day in canggu. We know where to come back to next time! Designed especially for surf, yoga, wellness and creativity retreats, Pineapple House is a big, open Balinese house with 3 bedrooms, situated right next to Desa Seni (so perfect for joining in their daily yoga classes). Run by an incredibly warm and friendly Brit - Rachel - and managed by the ever-so-lovely Era from Bali, this is a really awesome place to stay. With a big open kitchen and living area, around a sunny pool, its a really friendly place to stay. Era is also an expert masseuse, so don't leave without trying one of her massages. And make sure you rent a scooter. Like Desa Seni, its a little far from the beach (too far for walking anyway) and the action along Bat Balong. Oh and try Rachel’s yin yoga class at Bali Fit on Mondays!

Uluwatu, meaning ‘top or tip’ (ulu) and ‘rock’ (watu), is the famed surfing mecca located on the south-western tip of he bukit peninsula. Home to the Para Luhur Uluwatu Temple, it is equally known for its waves.

Gerry Lopez, aka Mr. Pipeline, the well-known American surfer and shaper (now 67) first surfed Uluwatu back in ‘74. Back then the fabled wave was apparently pristine, magical and empty. Gary returned some 40 years later to discover it was no longer so. Bustling, over-developed and a different scene altogether - but not one to deter the throng of surfers from around the world who still hit these shores today to enjoy Uluwatu’s famed left hand breaks that seem to go on forever. It’s beautiful here.

Like its neighbor Bingin, Uluwatu also boasts a whole bunch of Warungs and little stores that are built into the cliffs (the Pecatu Village). They sell and rent out boards, paddleboards, touristy stuff, and provide food, drink, repairs and even massage - whatever you’re needing first.

In terms of accommodation, there is plenty on offer and something to suit every budget.

On this recent trip though, we were very fortunate to be staying at Alila Villas Uluwatu. Perched on top of limestone cliffs, high above the Indian Ocean, the views from here are absolutely spectacular and the hotel itself is outrageously beautiful. From the moment we got out of the cab on arrival (Alila provides complimentary transfers), our jaw was permanently dropped. Exquisite clean lines and minimalist design. Lots of white. Manicured gardens. A stunning infinity pool. But quite possibly the most impressive of all, the cabanas - constructed out of flat black lava slabs -  these “bird-cage” like structures jut out over the ocean and around the swimming pool - perfect for lounging around in (and endless photo opportunities). Sunbathing inside one is like “sunbathing inside a giant Jenga game”, we heard someone say! But more on the villas below.

Here are a few of our favorite things for Uluwatu (please also refer to our Bingin guide for more to do on the Bukit)…

To eat/drink.

Nalu Bowls: at Single Fin (they have two other locations as well - Seminyak and Canggu). Hawaiian for wave, Nalu here in Uluwatu is the perfect place to come and enjoy your Acai bowl while watching the surf below. Nalu's bowls are full of local ingredients, homemade granola (baked fresh everyday) and lots of fresh fruit. Great smoothies as well.

Finns Beach Club: catch the inclinator down, and stay awhile. The beach club is located on a private beach that is part of the Samara Resort, you will be asked to pay about $30 to enter, but you can then redeem some of this back on your food and drink, your sunbed, towel etc. Be sure to visit at low tide. Bonfires sometimes, and good beats as well.

Karma Kandara: a day well spent. As is the case with Finns at the Samara, you will have to pay an entry fee to gain access to the Karma Kandara resort beach (around $30) but this will also be credited back to your food and drinks. A cable car will take you down the limestone cliffs to the beach, where its an awesome spot for lunch and a drink.

Bulgari Resort: for the perfect sundowner. Before arriving, we thought it might be a little too fancy for our liking, but how wrong we were. The Bulgari is an absolutely stunning resort - opulent and tranquil. A golf cart will escort you from reception down to the clifftop bar, where you can choose your day bed or bar stool and menus will be promptly offered and snacks delivered as well. I’m not sure if its just because it was rainy season (January) when we were there, but it was quiet and chilled and super laid-back and friendly. The views are incredible. The service was impeccable. A really beautiful place to watch the sun go down.

Sunday sessions at Single Fin: something we were told not to miss. We liked it here - yes, the views are awesome (especially at that magic hour), but it was very touristy (largely jam-packed full of Aussies (not that we have a problem with that!!!)). Its by no means classy, but fine for a couple of coronas or a jug of margarita to watch the sun go down. You cant argue with an Uluwatu sunset!!!

Suarga (see Bingin guide).

El Kabron (see Bingin guide).

To do. 

Go beach hunting. Uluwatu is home to many of the island’s best beaches. Jump on a scooter (these can be easily hired anywhere) and explore. Our favourite…the beach down the cliffs from ‘Thomas Homestay’. This was the best tip we received all trip. A hidden little spot that we definitely wouldn't have found on our own. Look out for the Thomas Homestay sign on the road between Uluwatu and Bingin. Park your scooters outside of the homestay and then take the (hundreds of) stairs down the cliffs. Here you will find the quietest, dreamiest beach we found during our time on the Bukit. Its truly paradise (…so keep it on the down low ok?!!). Check out Balangan, Dreamland, Padang Padang as well. 

Hang out in bingin (see our Bingin guide for more details).

Uluwatu Temple (Pura Luhur Uluwatu). Set atop the edge of a rocky cliff on the Bukit, this temple was founded by a Javanese Hindu priest in the 10th century. Considered one of the nine directional temples on the island, the temple sits 70m above the ocean below. Look out for the monkeys (we really cant stand those pesky monkeys!!! Sorry). 

We must admit, we didn't actually see the temple ourselves! We attempted to…but the day we got there, it was super busy, and there were so many busloads of tourists and queues, and monkeys everywhere, and it was exceptionally hot and it was just all a bit much! We decided the Temple wasn't going anywhere in a hurry, and we would one day return to see it in the flesh. But for sure its something you should do!!!

To sleep.

Alila Villas Uluwatu: to say we were rendered completely speechless on arrival to Alila Villas Uluwatu would be the greatest understatement. Designed by Singapore-based architects WOHA, nothing can prepare you for the view that awaits you as you first walk into the circle-shaped lobby.

A super contemporary and architecturally-astonishing design hotel perched atop the rugged cliffs of the Bukit peninsula, the Alila experience is one that will stay with you for a long time. With exceptional views over the Indian Ocean, Alila’s design is both dramatic and eco-friendly, housing over 80 spacious villas across 14-hectares, surrounded by terraces, pools and manicured gardens. The harmony with nature is expressed in everything from the locally-sourced and reclaimed building materials, to the seamless transitions between indoor and outdoor living and dining. The most dramatic (and most-photographed) of all - the bird-cage like cabanas - made out of flat black lava slabs - that jut out over the cliffs and swimming pool.

Your own private villa comes complete with a plunge pool (which you can literally jump into straight from you sofa), a deluxe double bathroom (with a set of tailored bath products for him and her - we were obsessed with the lip balms), indoor and outdoor rain showers, and king size beds. The interiors are modern and minimalist, with traditional Balinese touches perfectly incorporated as well - recycled wood, stone, bamboo and rattan. Not only that, you are also allocated your own personal butler who is basically available around the clock to cater to your every whim.

To do.

Dine at both the Alila restaurants - The Warung (for traditional and wholesome Indonesian food) and CIRE (for East Asian flavours married with Western cooking techniques). The food is almost as impressive as the design. We had a 6-course tasting menu at Warung one evening which was exceptional. The Warung “Megibung” is a traditional Balinese dining experience in which people share a meal on a plate in a festive feast. The purpose being to strengthen a social tie amongst the village members. Our feast started with minced fish sate on lemongrass skewers, followed by all sorts of other wonderfully flavored and colored delights. Our favourites - the tuna salad with shallot and lemongrass dressing, and the green bean salad with chicken and grated coconut. So fresh, so much colour and so full of flavour. It was an amazing way to experience so many local dishes (we were bursting afterwards).

Breakfast each morning is served at CIRE, and is an indulgent feast. Each dish is tasting plate-sized, with the aim being for you to try as many dishes as possible. With both western and asian influences, it was fun to try some local Indonesian dishes we had never heard of (as well as old favorites such as nasi goreng). We loved the Kolek Pisang- finger banana in coconut milk, and the Pisang Bakar Coklat Keju - grilled bananas with chocolate and cheese (trust me). There is always a healthy daily juice and smoothie, and the coffee is good as well. 

Book in for a treatment at the day spa (or try a few). Spa Alila engages holistic and organic health and wellness principles, putting a contemporary spin on ancient Asian healing techniques. The space itself is luxurious and inviting. We sank into a world of bliss with a totally sublime 4-handed massage. Two therapists, synchronized movements. The ultimate indulgence.

Rent a scooter. Alila can organize for a scooter to be delivered to your doorstep (and this was the nicest scooter we had in our time in Bali - a brand new scoopy). They also provide lovely new helmuts, bottles of cold water, maps etc. Everything you’ll need for a day out and about on the Bukit.

Check out Alila’s private beach (at low tide). Take the 600-step descent down a rocky cliffside path from the hotel to the beach below. The perfect way to work off your breakfast. Its a bit of a mission getting down, but probably a little harder getting back up! Its a beautiful beach, and it will likely be completely yours. The currents can be strong, so just be a little careful if you’re going to swim.

Rent bicycles and ride out to nearby rice paddies or beaches.

Take a tour of the temples - the ‘Journey of Enlightenment’ is just one of seven customized activities that are designed for guests to integrate indigenous nature, traditional culture and local community for an unparalleled guest experience. This tour affords guests privileges access to five of the holiest and lesser-visited temples on Bali's south coast.

And yoga. Make sure you check out the daily yoga practice that is held in the lovely glass box (it does get a bit hot though!) yoga shala at 9am each morning. This was the best start to our Alila day.

And surf, of course.

[uluwatu soundtrack. like an animal]

We learnt that Alila is the Sanskrit word for ‘surprise’ and to pinch an expression coined by another reviewer, we too were completely “alila’d” by this incredible experience.

[Stay tuned for our feature on another Alila property, Alila Soori - coming soon].

[spotlight series. Carla Celentano and Raffaele Mandara]

[Amalfi Coast soundtrack. Sinnerman]

“Positano bites deep…it is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” — John Steinbeck.

This glittering chunk of the southern Italian coast stole our heart back in 2000, when we first visited as young backpackers. We were bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and totally fell under its spell. So much so, Positano ended up playing home for a couple of months that summer (while we romanced local boys and rode around the cliffs, barefoot and free, on the back of scooters). We were 21. Not a care in the world. We had one local friend (our Positano insider, Raffaele Mandara) who we had met in Melbourne earlier that year, who took us under his wing. Positano born and bred, Raf introduced us to his town - his family, his friends, their way of life. The rest is history. We have flirted with the magic of the Amalfi Coast for 15 years now. It is also the place we met one of our best friends, our Toronto insider - Amanda Blakely - a Canadian backpacker, also bopping around Italy as a 21 year old. We met on the street, as a local friend was recruiting cute girls to come to his birthday party that night! It is home to countless special memories. Last summer, we were back there again - firstly with Amanda and some other Canadian friends; and then with family. The first time my two sisters and i had been there all together at the same time. Positano is nothing short of breathtaking. We love the trellised walkways covered in vines and lavender flowers, the colored buildings jutting out of the jagged cliffs, the countless stairs (a serious workout), the hot blazing sun, the crazy views, the sight of lemons - everywhere - and limoncello, the smell of wood-fired pizza, the striped sun lounges, the sparkling blue waters of the mediterranean, the hidden coves and private beaches, Da Adolfo (one of our favorite places on the planet), and just the Italian way. The food. The Spritz’s. The music. The feeling of old-world romance. Its our everything. We have kept our recommendations to just a few, but hope it will guide you on your way on your next visit to this magical part of the world.

POSITANO

To eat.

Da Adolfo: our number one. See below.

Il Capitano: for dinner (go early, around 8ish, for the best sunset skies). Book a table on the edge of the terrace. Its heaven. Start with Campari, and then try the tuna tartare (wow). You cant go wrong with any of the pastas, as well. 

Delicatessen: when you want a low-key lunch, grab homemade sandwiches to-go from the deli in the centre of town (up the stairs) - out of control goodness - big ciabatta rolls, ham, buffalo mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, basil, all lathered in a big dollop of olive oil. There is also another great deli opposite Hotel Poseiden on the main street into town.

Buco di bacco: this spot is always good for pizza and gelato (any time of day), but for dinner, go up to the very top floor. Not many people know about this spot, as it is generally reserved for hotel guests. Quiet, private, and spectacular views over the beach - more heaven. The food is excellent.

Casa e Bottega: this charming little cafe is a welcome addition to the Positano food scene. When you need a break from your daily pasta/pizza routine, come here for fruit salad, smoothies, healthy sandwiches and salads. Finish with a (not-so healthy) freshly baked dessert. All so good.

Case Mele: for something more fancy. Raf is an expert chef who has been cooking up a storm in Positano for over 20 years. His new space (summer 2014) is super modern, and a big departure from the traditional Positano-style restaurant aesthetic. He has an open kitchen, where he also hosts cooking courses. Try the raw fish plate, or any of his pastas. Raf is also a dessert whiz, so definitely try his trio of chocolate mousse, and the semi freddo. Tell him we sent you! Our Positano insider is quite the character.

Valle dei mulini: Raf’s original family restaurant. Good for pizza in a nice courtyard garden setting. You will often find live music. It can be found just down the road from Parcheggio Mandara (the garage). 

To drink.

Bar Buca di Bacco: for coffee.

Cafe Positano: a great spot for aperitivo. Beautiful views. The food is good as well.

Le Sierunse: our favorite spot for something fancy. Stunning views from their pretty terrace, and some fancy people watching too.

Music on the Rocks: Positano’s one and only nightclub. This is a must.

To do.

A day trip to Da Adolfo. This is also a must. Come here once, twice or as many times as you can. Our best recommendation for Positano. A super laidback seafood shack on a private beach (Laurito) a few beaches south of Positano. Jump on the little wooden boat (with the red fish on its mast) from the jetty on the main beach. It generally runs between 11-1pm each day. Spend the day eating mussels, drinking Campari, and sun baking on the rocks. Also try One Fire Beach in Praino - for the same kinda deal.

Hike/walk. Try ‘The Path of the Gods’: a simple walk, from Positano to Bomerano , with spectacular and awe-inspiring scenery all the way.

Day trip to Ravello (see below).

Day trip to Capri (see below).

Shop: at Lo Scrigno di Brunella for all kinds of linen. Locally produced, unique designs.

To sleep.

Residence La Tavolozza: our favorite place to stay while in Positano. We stumbled across this cute Bnb by mistake last summer. It is just the best. Basic and simple, and affordably priced. A great location (right next to Le Sirenuse). Breakfast is not included (but the delicatessen is just down the road) and our bathroom was just across the hallway from our room (but it was exclusively ours) - but some of the ones have private ensuite bathrooms, if you would prefer. We paid 95 euro per night (summer 2014), which is an absolute steal for Positano. Its literally smack bang next to La Sirenuse which is prob the most exclusive hotel in town, where rooms go for 800+ euro per night.

Villa Maria Antoinetta: if you cant get in to the Residence La Tavolozza, another good one (at the same kind of level) is Villa Maria Antoinetta. Run by a super cute brother and sister - Giuseppe and Carla - its also right in the centre, and they serve a great breakfast each day on the terraCe. 

La Casa di Peppe: this beautiful guest house and villa is one of the oldest places in Positano. In a beautiful location, a little bit out of town, the private oasis is surrounded by a lush botanical garden surrounded by bougainvillea trees, hibiscus flowers, banana plants and tropical palm trees. La Casa Di Peppe is nice and secluded, offering a very private getaway.

Le Sirenuse: a luxury Positano institution, with a swimming pool and Michelin-starred restaurant. Only 10mins walk downhill to the main beach, this is a beautiful (high-end) place to stay. Gorgeous details throughout including handpainted Italian floortiles, an incredible line of fragrances made just for the hotel, beautiful linens on the beds, turndown service with chocolates, and a thoughtful handwritten nightly weather report, and a delicious breakfast each morning, served on the terrace.

SORRENTO

We generally spend most of our time in Positano, so we only have a few recommendations for nearby Sorrento…but we can happily suggest the following things:

To eat.

Gelato. On repeat. And we can recommend Primavera. There will most certainly be a wait, but don't let that deter you. They offer over 30 flavors, and they are all life-changing. Make this a must-do while in Sorrento.

To do.

Book a boat trip with Sorrento Experience. Old-school Italian wooden boats (think George Clooney), this lovely family business (run by our Amalfi Coast insider, Carla Celentano) has been in the boating game for years, and know all the best places to take you. We used them for a trip from Sorrento to Capri, and were not disappointed. Highly recommend.

To sleep.

Villa Serena: one of many beautiful properties listed through the Inspirato Collection, this large and luxury home - perched high on a hill just outside Sorrento - has views of the Med from every room. Perfect for a group, the property sits among a manicured garden, and is surrounded by a beautiful pool.

La Minervetta: a spectacular boutique hotel (originally a restaurant built in the 50s), sitting on the seacliff overlooking the Marina Grande. This breathtaking spot offers only 12 Mediterranean-style rooms and is a beautiful, modern, design sleeping option.

CAPRI

We only had one day in Capri, and were lucky enough to be accompanied there by the Sorrento Experience. We can recommend these things while on the island..

To eat.

La Fontellina: book ahead to spend a day at this beach club. Its lunch only, and reservations are a must. Our favorite beach club on the island.

Da Luigi ai Faraglioni: if La Fontellina is full, this is your next best option. Lunch (lemon risotto) and lounging on the rocks. Book in advance. An amazing spot to set up shop for the day. 

Al Piccolo Bar: for aperitivo (and amazing people watching in the Piazzetta). Grab a front row seat. 

Buonocore Gelateria: for the best gelato in town, served in house-made waffle bowls. Join the queue! Their pistachio cookings are amazing, as well.

To shop.

100% Capri: for linen everything. Caftans, sheets, homewares, and more. 

To sleep.

La Minerva: a beautiful 18-room hotel, located on a quiet street just minutes from the main shopping streets of Via Camerelle and Via Tragara, overlooking the beach of Faraglioni.

RAVELLO

A day trip here is essential. If its in the budget, you will not regret (or easily forget) lunch at Hotel Caruso.

To eat.

Hotel Caruso: lunch here, beside the spectacular infinity pool, looking down on to the mediterranean is an incredible treat. The comprehensive menu offers a perfect example of southern Italian cuisine. Order seafood. Or pasta. Or anything. And start with Bellinis. This is an amazing eating experience.

To do. 

Ravello Festival: if the timing works, be sure to check out one of the outdoor concerts, as part of the Ravello Festival. The tiny village welcomes all sorts of musicians - big or small names - who perform on a stage jutting out over the sea. 

Hike/walk: There is a great 2+ hour walk that will lead you from Ravello to Atrani. Its steep in parts, but wonderful. 

NAPLES

There is really no urgent need to spend any time in Naples, but if you do happen to have some time to kill (like we did before our train back to Rome), head to Pizzeria Pellone for some of the best (sloppy) pizza you will ever eat. A quick 5min walk from the train station (it is worth lugging your bags here - trust me), this pizza will stay in your mind forever. A Capricossa so saucy and cheesy and sloppy. The menu is Italian, and there will be a massive queue out the door, but do whatever it takes. You should not miss this.

OTHER

Perisco Car Service: to get you from Naples along the coast (less hairy than the public buses). Friendly and efficient. They will sort you out with whatever you need, transport-wise.

[spotlight series. Fanis fragoulis]

[Athens soundtrack. My Heart is on Fire]

It may at first seem somewhat intense and over-crowded, but there is a lot of richness to be found here in Greece’s capital if you have some time to get down and dirty. Unfortunately for us, we landed at 10pm and had to be out again by midday the next day, so there wasn’t a lot of time to really give this Greek Goddess a good go…but thanks to some awesome recos from our local friends – including our Athens insider– Fanis Fragoulis – we have managed to pull together a bunch of great little spots to give you a good kickstart for your visit to this city full of history and secrets.

Known for its vibrant nightlife, there is also an amazing creative energy here, a cultural edge - one that is even said to rival that of Berlin. Best to see for yourself...

To sleep.

Grecotel Pallas Athena: this is where we spent our sleeping hours, and we can absolutely vouch for this being the most perfect, and affordable sleeping option in the city. To be completely frank, we were a little concerned as we rolled up from the train station. The hotel building, with its super modern and shiny façade, was not our usual style….but once inside, it was a different story. We were greeted by the friendliest staff and shown to our room, which - complete with a ginormous blue hippo (!) - was light, bright and sparkling clean, with all the modern amenities and some great little design features as well. Perfectly located right next to the Athens City Hall, the Grecotel Pallas Athena is just a 5min walk from Omonia Metra Station (where the airport train pulls into), and only 10mins walk down straight down Athinas Street to the famed Acropolis. Each floor of the building has cute and unique design features – some amazing photography by an old Greek celebrity photographer (whose name we were unable to track down), and some great paintings on the wall. The highlight though – the breakfast! Possibly one of the best hotel breakfasts we have had to date. Plentiful options – Greek, Meditterean and Western – unlimited freshly squeezed orange juice, barista-style coffee, and amazing food (prepared using fresh products from the property’s farm, Agreco). A fabulous outdoor terrace as well. Concierge were super willing to help with directions, taxis (to Mount Lycabettus at sunrise; and also to the central bus station for our bus to Lefkada), recommendations, and printing services as well. It’s beautiful here.

To shop.

Leather sandals: they are everywhere. And they are cheap (especially having come from the Amalfi Coast where they will set you back 80 euro a pair. Expect to pay no more than 15020 euro here – different colors, different styles. Perfection.

To do.

Sunrise at Mount Lucabettus: start your day at 6am by getting a taxi to the base of Mount Lycabettus, and then walk the short distance to the top of the hill. This is Athens highest point (at 277 meters above sea level), and a beautiful place to see the sun rise over a new Athena day. Watch as the colors change, and the sun illuminates ampitheatres, the 19th century Chapel of St. George on the top of the hill, temples, green pines, and mountains. And of course what we came here for, to see the Acropolis shine. A beautiful, and peaceful, start to the day.

Visit the colorful Central Market on Athinas Street (the same street as our hotel). An amazing array of delicious food – fruit, nuts and spices, meats, cheeses (try all the Greek favorites – feta, graviera, kefalotyri). Its hectic, its buslting, and its lots of fun. You can also enjoy a meal at one of the small tavernas tucked into the market, and hang out with the locals. We love seeing all the old Greek men sitting on the sidewalk enjoying their morning coffees.

Visit the Greek Gastronomy Museum: located in a 150-year-old townhouse just behind the central food market, this museum of Greek cuisine was started by four young locals and is run by volunteers. There is a lovely courtyard café, and part of your admission price includes a half-hour cooking lesson. For reservations call +30 210 321 1311.

Yoga with Melina: if you are feeling like a good stretch, Ashtanga Yoga Kifisia is the only place to go. Melina is the queen of ashtanga, and offers a range of different classes at her lovely studio in Kifisia – a space dedicated to the teaching and practice of Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga.

Haircuts and shaves at Barber Stories. Cute retro barber shop on Kountouriotou street, Piraeus. Panagiotis the barber pumpes out old-school British haircuts, and traditional shaves as well.

Other recommendations we were given, but alas, had no time to check out:

To eat.

Amin’s Falafel (Tsamadou 15): we ran out of time to find this friendly Iranian - Amin, but we have heard good things about this guy who sets up his stand on the pedestrian zone outside the Immigrant’s Lodge (near Eksarheia Square) and pumps out late-night falafel. Perfect when you are needing a break from gyros, but need a feed after a fun night drinking beers - Eksarheia style (i.e. buying them from a kiosk and drinking them in a park, or other outside place). Always packed. Serves from 1030pm until 2am on weekends. Not always there though. Risk it.

Pi Box (Levidou 11): consistently getting good reviews, this popular eatery was desinged by the forener editor of Greek ELLE Décor and is located in the northern Athena surburb of Kifissia. 

Santorinios (Dorieon 8): this beautiful taverna is located in a small enchanted garden, tucked away in the midst of the Petralona’s urban sprawl. You could easily forget you were in Athens here, more likely on some beautiful Greek island. Super friendly owners, service, lovely design, and great food (and prices) – this place is perfectly authentic, and a great spot to visit. Try the ‘fava’. Open Tuesday-Sunday.

To drink (these recommendations come from the king of cocktails – Spiros – owner of 155 Cocktail Bar in Vasiliki. The man can certainly be trusted when it comes to where to find a good drink.

42 Bar: one of the best cocktail bars in the heart of Athens. Amazing cocktails. Anything you can think of. (Closest Metro station: Panepistimio or Syntagma Station).

Baba Au Rum: this cute retro bar pumps out jazz and old “pop” tunes, and classic cocktails. An impressive list of non-alcoholic ones as well. (Closest Metro station: Panepistimio, Syntagma or Monastiraki Station).

And a couple of drinking spots we were recommended:

Tailor Made: one of the newer bars downtown. A special Micro Roastery serving some seriously good coffee, great teas, and beautiful cocktails as well. (Closest Metro station: Monastiraki Station).

Romantso (Anaxagora 305): right off Omonia Square, this is a cool modern bar and culture center named after the magazine that was printed in the same old industrial building for 60 years. The original neon sign still flashes on after dark. Also check out their other venue – an alternative arts space in Keramikos – Bios.

To note.

The train from the airport takes about one hour into the center of Athens and costs 8 euro. They only accept cash. There are no atms at the airport train station, so make sure you have cash on you, otherwise you will have to go back into the airport to find an atm (what we had to do)!

Also, Greeks have a bit of a habit of underestimating the time it will take to do things, or get places. So if you ask a local how long it will take to get from the hotel to the airport, and they say 30mins, always allow 45mins-1hour. We got caught out a few times because of this! Greek time. Got to love it.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to athens (or anywhere along the way!). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. jo durbridge]

[broome soundtrack. the shine is brighter at night]

Broome had long been at the top of our travel wish list, so we were hugely excited to be invited by Tourism WA to come and experience the magic and wonder of this far north corner of Western Australia. A unique town situated on a peninsula, where one of the world’s last great wilderness regions meets the Indian Ocean, Broome is the gateway to the Kimberley - a land largely untouched and unchanged by man. The pearling capital of the world, Broome’s people are transient and multicultural. Travelers from all corners of the globe are drawn here by the sun, the heat, the changing landscapes, and the laid-back lifestyle. A slower pace and friendly vibe. Broome can offer up a holiday full of total relaxation or one jam-packed full of action, together with once in a lifetime, breathtaking experiences. Here, you can choose your own adventure.

The Yawuru (pronounced ya-roo) people are the Native Title Holders of Broome and the surrounding areas. Warany-jarri liyan yargarrgi - means (in Yawuru) to agree with one spirit, one feeling and one mind, and the Yawuru people believe that once you have visited Broome, you will experience this spirit, this feeling and hold it always in your heart

We certainly will.

We loved our time in Broome, but even more so loved our time adventuring into the Outback. We spent time in the remote coastal areas of Cape Leveque, Cygnet Bay, and Eco Beach. Its hard to describe the intense richness of the colors in these parts - the redness of the dirt, the impossibly turquoise sea, the whitest of white sands - but hopefully our pics will give you some idea. 

Some things to note (bearing in mind we were visiting at the start of the wet season):

- its gets hot - really hot - early. Don't leave home without suncream, hats, sunglasses, and water.

- shops in town close early. By 2pm, Broome feels a bit like a ghost town.

To caffeinate.

The Zookeepers Store: our favorite coffee in Broome (especially when Paul is behind the machine - hi Paul). Great coffee, good breakfasts, and friendly vibes. Opposite the Cable Beach Club. Known for their “cronuts”.

The Good Cartel: great drive-through coffee, just get there early. Opening at 4am (!!), they shut up shop by 12pm.

Aarli Bar: good coffee (and great food) in a leafy courtyard in the centre of town. Popular with locals as well.

To eat/drink.

The Zookeepers Store: as above.

Aarli Bar: for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Delicious asian-inspired menu. 

18 degrees: beautifully designed bar. Good cocktails. order the Threadfin salmon (local to these parts) - it was served ona super fresh and delicious watermelon salad the night we went. great cocktails as well. we loved our Campari spritz. Ryan, the owner, was previously in the music industry with EMI in Sydney, then moved to NYC for a few years, before deciding to move to Broome (talk about a change of pace) after he visited for a 2 week holiday.

Zensai: great Japanese. the host dave, originally from tassie, is super friendly and loves a chat. We loved the miso salmon, and green tea rice.

Cairo Cafe: when Aarli Bar was (sadly) closed the evening we tried to visit, we stumbled across this low-key cafe by mistake. We were greeted by a super friendly and smiling owner, and really loved our totally fresh and delicious vegetarian platter (fresh falafel, dolmade, fried eggplant, pita, humus, tahini and rice). Not somewhere you would dine-in, but perfect to grab something to-go.

Matso’s Brewery: a Broome institution. A beer and cider heaven. Try the Desert Lime Cider with Wild Ginger. Perfect for an afternoon drink on the patio.

Land of the Pharaohs: when all you feel like is a damn good kebab.

Cafe Amore: for homemade pasta, tucked away in a residential part of town. This was one of our favorite finds.

Sunset Bar and Grill: for a cold beer at sunset. The location is hard to beat. Even better, grab some Coronas and go and sit on the sand like the locals do.

The Roebuck Bay Hotel (The Roey): a real-deal Australian pub. Broome’s original. Cant say we were tempted by its Thursday night wet t-shirt competition, but if thats your thing…

To do.

Cable Beach: the quintessential Broome experience. 22km of white sandy beach. Walk it. Ride camels along it. Drive your 4WD around it. Sit on it and watch the sun go down. Wander down to the southern tip to check out Gantheaume Point to check out the amazing red rock formations and to see the giant dinosaur footprints at low tide.

Sun Pictures: the world’s oldest outdoor cinema. A cute spot to grab a deck chair and settle into a flick (they show new releases as well as golden oldies). You can even BYO food and drink (although they do have a candy bar as well).

Town Beach: near Roebuck Bay for sunrise. This is where the locals hang out. It is also the perfect spot to watch the staircase to the moon, and to kick back with a BBQ.

Check out the Staircase to the moon: a natural phenomenon where the full moon rises over the exposed mudflats of roebuck bay at extremely low tide creating an optical illusion of a staircase reaching up to the moon. Most commonly watched from either Town Beach or the Mangrove Hotel (from March until October). Streeters Jetty: in Chinatown makes for some awesome photos when the tide is high. The water is like thick jade. Off Dampier Terrace.

Yoga: at the blue body buddha sanctuary. A beautiful open air community space just behind the Cable Beach Club. We did sunrise yoga here each morning.

Courthouse Markets: a broome institution. fresh local produce, locally made ice cream, and various crafts. every saturday (year round), sundays (from easter to october) and night markets (from easter to october).

Reddell beach: for sunset when the light hits the radiant red of the rocks.

Chakra readings and spiritual healings with Sage at the Ancient Earth crystal shop. Sage is an absolute character and downright legend.

Broome museum: for an interesting look at the history of this fascinating place.

A trip into the Kimberley (ESSENTIAL): more details in our guides to Cape Leveque and Eco Beach.

To sleep.

Cable Beach Club: easily the best place to stay in Broome. The location is unbeatable. The only hotel accommodation on Cable Beach. Lovely reception staff and family friendly (warning: there are kids everywhere). Great restaurants (Zensai our favorite) and some pretty luxe treatments in the day spa.

The Mangrove: our second pick. Located on Roebuck Bay, although it feels a little bit 90s-ish, the rooms have recently been renovated and it is fresh and clean. Beautiful sunrises, and close to Matso and 18 Degrees.

[spotlight series. chrissie argyros and cris soldatos]

[lefkada soundtrack. jubel]

Welcome to the precious natural beauty that is Lefkada (or Lefkas). One of the lesser known gems of the Ionian Sea. Connected to the mainland of Greece by a bridge, Lefkada is easy to get to. It is big. It is rugged. It is surrounded by insanely turqouise sea, and dramatic, jaw-dropping beaches. Charming little villages are scattered throughout, and olive trees dot the horizon. Locals sell honey from street stalls on the side of the road. Abandoned villages cling to the edge of mountains, narrow roads winding right through them. Fresh fish tavernas pop up everywhere. The Greek yoghurt tastes better; the tzatziki is life changing; and Greek salad is on tap. The locals are friendly and welcoming. Known for its watersports - Lefkada is one of Europe’s most popular windsurfing destinations. And as well as all of that, its conveniently positioned right near Kefalonia and Ithaca (two other islands we hear are equally as intoxicating). 

Lefkada would have never been on our radar had it not been for our good friend (and local insider) Chrissie Argyros, a Melbourne girl whose father Stathi was born on the island. Chrissie – whose mother Jane is Australian - was born in Melbourne, but has spent pretty much every European summer of her life here on Lefkas. Known by her friends as the unofficial “mayor” of the island, Chrissie has spent countless holidays here playing tour guide to hoards of visiting Melburnians. This woman is certainly down with all the best, most hidden and local spots. I was lucky enough to join the roll call last summer.

Here we provide some of the (many) things we fell in love with about the island. Chrissie - and our other local insider, Cris Solvates - chime in as well with their favorite hidden hotspots. If you are still tossing up ideas for your next european summer vacation - add Lefkada to the list. Its one of those places we want the world to know about, but at the same time, kind of want to keep to ourselves. It's so beautiful here.

Our Lefkada.

We recommend choosing one village as your base, then renting a scooter or jeep and doing a bunch of day trips from there. We chose Vassiliki (situated on a wide bay on the south coast of the island). Quieter and less touristy than the bigger towns of Lefkada and Nidri. And still close enough to all the good stuff.

Things we love:

More Faje yoghurt lining supermarket shelves than we have ever seen in our life.

The white paper tablecloths on top of restaurant tables that double as maps of the island.

Greek salad for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

4 euro bottles of locally produced Rose.

Mythos beer.

“Greek time” – if they say it will take 15mins, it will take 45. Don't believe anything to the contrary.

Scooter life.

The gents club - the old local men who meet for hours on end at their local coffee shop each morning. We would love to know what they talk about.

The charming little villages that cling to the edge of the mountains, and the abandoned ones that are tucked away in the hills.

The Greek yoghurt at tavern oasis.

Restaurant “No menu” – for exactly that.

Rachi - in exanthia - for everything. This is our favorite place on the island. The view, the sunsets, the food, the beer, the wine, the good vibes. Oh and the best tzatziki we have ever experienced.

And finally - the beaches. Every single beach will completely blow your mind. Guaranteed.

To eat.

Rachi: in Exanthia for absolutely everything. As previously mentioned, this is our favorite place on the island. So much so, we visited 3 times over 10 days. The location will take your breath away. The food is fresh, local and seasonal (we are obsessed with the vegetable salad with yoghurt, and the zucchini fritters - but everything is good). The Rose is their own brew. And the view - well - thats something to behold. Go before sunset, and stay right through. Grab a table on the edge of the terrace if you can. This place is special.

Oceans: for excellent seafood. Order the stuffed calamari, and the grilled fish of the day (oh and the rocket and parmesan salad).

Kima: for moussaka. Emelia, the owner, has been making the same moussaka recipe since she was a 17 year old girl (now in her 50s). This is a local favorite.

The bakery in Vasiliki (opp service station): for their spanakopita.

The bakery in Vasiliki (in town, next to grill house): for their sourdough bread, and their sesame/raisin gingerbread cookies.

Yianni’s Grill House: for the best gyros on the island.

Selitas: for Greek-style tapas.

Ta Katamia (meaning “no menu): for literally that. They will ask if you want vegetarian or meat. Thats it. There’s no menu (as the name of the restaurant would suggest!). A great, colorful, friendly, open-air dining space in a busy (not so pretty) part of town (Nidri).

Tavern Oasis: a little family-run tavern on the road to Porto Katsiki. We stopped here for breakfast - amazing greek yoghurt with fruit, honey and nuts.

Stavros tavern: in Sivota for dinner.

Agios Nikitas: for all its cute bars and restaurants. We liked ‘Nikitas’ Fresh Fish Taverna.

To drink.

155: this is the best (and only) craft cocktail bar on the island. The two (brother) owners are ex-Athens, where they run a hugely successful cocktail bar there as well. Ask for the special marmalade cocktail (not on the menu, a trip from our Athens insider). 

Tunnel bar: grab a drink and sit on the street.

rachi: for potentially the best sunset drink you will have in your life.

Any of the bars in Sivota: a pretty harbor town.

Copla Beach Bar: on Kathisma Beach if you are in the mood for some party beats, and pretty amazing people watching!

To do.

Beach-hop. Obviously. Jump on a scooter and spend days bouncing between: Agios Nikitas, Milos, Pefkoulia, Kathisma, Kavalikefta and Megali Petra (Kalamitsi), Gialos, Egremni and the Island’s most famous beach ‘Porto Katsiki’.

Its hard to pick a favorite, but we will go as far as to say our favorite is Milos. Only accessible by boat (or a short, but steep, 15min hike from the village), Milos is long, wide and incredibly white (sand) and aqua blue (sea). It would be awesome for beach camping. There are no ameninites though, so be prepared. Pack a cooler. You might find the odd donut seller, but thats about it.

Egremni on the other hand, is probably a favorite among the masses, and rightly so. Its requires a bit of effort to get to (we counted 350 stairs). Theres a fun beach bar, playing perfectly chilled summer beats, and cold drinks (no decent food though - pack your own).

Porto katsiki - another crowd-pleaser - is out of this world. Only a small stretch of sand, every inch will no doubt be occupied by beach bums, umbrellas, and families. Its busy, but its beautiful.

Lastly, we really, really love all the little secluded coves that surround Vasiliki town (literally named first beach, second beach, third beach and so on). To get to fourth beach (our favorite), look out for the electricity shed at the top of the hill (about 5mins walk from town), and then find the tiny walking path that has been carved out of the forrest. The quietest, and most hidden, and our top pick.

Jump on board the waterspouts bandwagon - windsurfing, sailing, paddle boarding and more.

Hike.

Yoga (check if Melina from Melina’s little shop is hosting any classes - she is amazing).

Take out a boat.

Visit the nearby islands of Kefalonia and Ithaca.

Explore the island (there is a small church - where 3 nuns still live - hidden away in the hills. If you find it, they will open it up for you and show you through. You can buy their honey. This is a special experience).

To shop.

Fabric: a well-curated selection of apparel and accessory brands, and very friendly vibes. The brainchild of our Lefkada insider, Cris Soldatos, be sure to pop in and say hi while in Vassiliki. If you pop a thong (or flip flop), you will find plenty of new ones here.

Melina’s little shop: opening in the summer of 2007, Melina’s little shop in Vassiliki is a cute and cosy corner boutique, full of bright and colorful jewelry, beach dresses, greek sandals, handwoven turkish towels, and other artisan products. Melina, who not only owns this cute spot, is a yoga instructor as well, and also the host of our favorite sleeping option (see below). She is a true darling.

Local goods (from the side of the road): honey, olive oil, beeswax cream, mountain tea, yoghurt, oregano etc.

To sleep.

Melinas rooms – this is our favorite sleeping option in Vassiliki. Right in the center of town, these clean, simple and bright rooms are totally gorgeous and very affordable (expect to pay between 50-60 euro in high season). Run by Melina and her husband (who owns cocktail bar, 155), this is a super friendly, family-run option.

[spotlight series. lauren geremia]

[oakland soundtrack. sara]

What Brooklyn is to New York City, Oakland is to San Francisco. Still gritty in parts, but rich in culture, diversity and history. Cheaper living and constant growth has made it appealing to many finding it hard to cope with crazy rents in the city. We only had a day to explore this side of the bridge, but we loved what we saw (thanks to some awesome local lowdown from friends in SF) and we found lots of fun things to share. There were also a bunch of other recos that we didnt manage to get to, but we decided to include them below in case you might have more time. We know we will back there soon. The Oakland seed has been planted, and we want to see it grow.

To caffeinate.

Blue Bottle: our favorite of all the Blue Bottles we have found so far. Housed in the old WC Morse building, there are more beautiful big windows here than you could possibly imagine. A light, bright and happy space - the coffee, as is always the case with Blue Bottle - will not disappoint.

Bicycle Coffee: there is nowhere to sit or hang out, but the coffee is good (in the less pretty/more industrial part of town).

To eat.

Bakesale Bettys: an Oakland institution. You come here for a fried chicken sandwich, and you come here bang on 11am (because they are only open from 11am-2pm, and they sell out everyday). Founded by a fellow Australian - Alison Barakat - these sandwiches mean business. A must when in Oakland.

Curbside Creamery: for ice cream in the Temescal Alley. Quality, artisanal scoops - both dairy and (amazing) cashew-based vegan.

Ramen shop: a purveyor of artistic, organic, and sustainable ramen. A must.

To shop.

Temescal Alley: a cute little alleyway filled with bright boutiques and friendly faces. A barbershop, a florist, clothing, jewelery, ice cream, and more. We especially like:

Ali Golden: beautiful airy dresses, and other goodies, all handmade locally. 

Crimson Hort: the most gorgeous plant store, for all things hoticultural.

Neigbor: a gorgeous home and garden shop with artisan and vintage pieces for home decor, gifts and interior design.

Cruise along Piedmont Avenue, check out these:

Good stock: for gifts and accessories.

Mercy vintage now: for awesome vintage and consignment. 

To do.

Book a tour of St George Spirits, a Gin Distillery - their bottles are stunning. Im obsessed.

AND MORE…

We ran out of time to check out these awesome recos (shout out to Timmy Crosland, Lauren Geremia, Ali Hall) - so if you go, let us know what you think! Need to get back there, stat…

Eat.

Pizzaiolo. For pizza, obviously. Awesome wood-fired pizza. A neighborhood favorite. Get there early.

Chez Panisse, Berkeley. Enough said. If you are lucky enough to get a table, that is.

Ippuku: Japanese Izakaya style dining bar.

Penrose: for dinner.

Boot and shoe service: busy pizzeria.

Brunch outside at the colorful, Doña Tomás.

Kronnerburger: seriously recommended.

Real Miss Ollies: for Caribbean soul food.

Donut dolly: the daughter of chez panisse pastry chef, Hannah Hoffman now applies the same Alice Water’s simple, thoughtful cooking policy to her doughnuts. Amazingly interesting flavors. 

Bartavelle Coffee and Wine Bar: for toast and coffee: great after a hike in Berkeley Hills.

Camino: a rustic Californian eatery, very photo-worthy (we hear).

Drink.

Starline Social: a very new and eclectic restaurant, bar, and performance space on the edge of Uptown Oakland. Opened in April 2015.

Prizefighter: cocktails and patio.

Cafe van Cleef: for craft cocktails.

Heinold's First and Last Chance Saloon: a super old, circa-1883 bar featuring cocktails & draft brews. And patio.

Shop.

Erica Tanov (Berkeley): for soft, beautiful, clean and pure women’s wear and home wear collections.

Tokyo Fish Market (Berkeley): Japanese grocery store, also carrying many household items.

Atelier Dion: for small scale, custom ceramics.

[spotlight series. arie prabowo]

[orpheus soundtrack. without you]

Orpheus Island Resort is a little known jewel in the Great Barrier Reef in Queensland, Australia. A spectacularly beautiful, intimate and remote island resort surrounded by national park, this is a true tropical paradise. The island itself has 11km of coastline (most of which is bordered by the national park) and is surrounded by impossibly turquoise waters. This is the ultimate picture-perfect, pinch-yourself setting. Palm trees (have you ever met a silver “Bismarckia” palm? wow), tropical plants, a heavenly infinity pool overlooking the quiet beach, beautiful suites, outrageously comfy big white canvas hammocks, and endless options for action (think fishing charters, sunset cruises, paddleboarding, kayaking, day spa-ing, etc etc) or relaxation instead.

From the moment you arrive, the island’s super friendly staff welcome you like old friends. You are greeted with big smiles, trays of champagne and perfect chilled tunes that just float along in the background. Ranaul Crabb runs the show and is an incredible host. His lovely staff will have remembered your names within minutes of meeting you, they will remember your coffee order and have it delivered to your breakfast table each morning before you can utter the words “cappuccino please”, they will bring you sparkling water refills by the pool (because you opted for sparkling rather than still the day before), they will remember that you really, really like Aperol Spritzing (but with Campari instead), and that, if possible, you always prefer your scrambled eggs to be on the runny side. This is personalized service at its finest, and attention to detail like nothing we have experienced anywhere before.

All meals are included, and Indonesian chef Arie Prabowo, ensures you have something beautiful, interesting and delicious on your plate every time. He is also more than happy to tailor the menu to your liking. The onsite herb and vegetable garden (which is worth having a look at) plays a big part in meal time. Dinner time is quite fancy and there will be a personalized menu (with your name printed on top) waiting for you on the table setting out four courses you will soon enjoy. Where i had sashimi for my starter, my friend (who is pregnant) might have had something vegetarian instead. Or perhaps a grilled version of whatever raw thing i was eating. Thoughtful and considered each time. Some wines (by Victoria’s Fowles winery) are included. We loved their chardonnay and shiraz. If you are wanting to try something different though, there is a more thorough wine list on offer and those wines can be purchased separately. Our favorite meal of the day though was lunch - a different theme each day. We were taken from Indonesia to Mexico to Japan and on to the Middle East over the four days we were there. Lunch was more about big family-style, share plates with lots of color and flavor. The way we like to eat.

For lodging, there are four different room categories, each at different price points. If budget is no issue, we suggest going for south suite one or two. These large, spacious, light-filled suites are totally lush and come complete with your own private outdoor tub. Old black and white photos of the island back in the 50s line the walls, the beds are covered in pale pastel linens, the fridge is stocked with cold beer, wine and champagne, there is good coffee, iPod docks, robes, and so on. Enough to make you feel very much at home. You cant go wrong with any of the room types though (because lets face it, its not like you're going to be in the room much anyway).

Our island mornings would begin with a few laps of the pool, followed by a huge and delicious breakfast, and then some stand-up paddle boarding or kayaking out to the mangroves (before the tide went out), followed by lunch and a walk (at low tide) to visit the sea garden full of giant clams (these things are amazing)!!! For those interested in reef life, there is a reef research centre on the island which is also worth visiting. In the afternoons, we would bounce between pool and beach (and pool and beach), until it was time for our afternoon spritz. A long and indulgent dinner would follow, and we would then be tucked up in bed by 930pm. The luxury of island days that seem to go on forever. Just perfection.

At some point during your stay you will also get to enjoy a cute concept they call “dining with the tides”. This is where two couples are set up on the jetty with a silver service degustation experience. It was a full moon the night we were out there, and the tides were high. We saw stingrays racing below us. It almost felt like we were dining on a boat. Dinner started with an appetizer of 36 Hour Marinated Ocean Trout (with preserved lemon, apple celery foam, green sauce and radicchio), followed by pan seared dive scallop (with cauliflower, turmeric crisp and macadamia), and then fillet mignon (with capsicum jus, garlic cream, beetroot, spiced red wine, and roasted potato swisschard), with a hazelnut praline semifreddo with salted caramel and spiced chocolate for dessert. Needless to say, we were so full (but so happy) that we pretty much had to be rolled off the jetty back to our room! It was a fun experience.

To get to Orpheus, you need to find your way to either Townsville (closer) or Cairns airports. From there, the lovely folk at Nautilus Aviation will take you across to the island by helicopter. From Townsville its a short 20min hop. We must say, it was quite the rockstar arrival. The views on the trip over the Great Barrier Reef were incredible.

The whole trip to Orpheus completely blew our mind. Not just for its spectacular natural beauty, but for every little detail we were lucky enough to experience from the minute we arrived to the minute we (sadly) had to leave. It was an island we knew very little about, but very quickly got to love. Its a special place, and one that we are so happy to share with you.

Kangaroo Island had always been super high on my travel wish list. Years and years ago, when I was just a young grad in a corporate company based in Melbourne, I was sent to Adelaide on secondment for 3 months. I was so close to Kangaroo Island, but never quite made it!! So, when the opportunity came up on a visit home to Australia from LA, I did everything in my power to make it happen. And Southern Ocean Lodge was the main reason for my visit. 

An architecturally-stunning luxury lodge, in the most ridiculously beautiful and rugged setting atop a limestone clifftop, Southern Ocean Lodge is one very special place. Surrounded by Australian bush and wilderness, it is a remote, quiet and heavenly hideaway. And the island itself is a nature wonderland.

An easy 30 minute flight from Adelaide to Kingscote airport (with REX airlines), we were met at the airport by one of the lodge’s super friendly, informative and passionate team members - Nick. We were offered chilled champagnes, canapés and a very personalized introduction to the lodge and the itinerary for our 3 night stay on the hour long journey to the lodge.

As we drove up the long, windy driveway to the lodge’s entrance we were  surrounded by bush and saw a couple of kangaroos hopping by. We were greeted on arrival by assistant hotel manager, Pen, and Sarah from reception, and our incredibly memorable lodge experience began.

Picture this - a fully open bar (i.e. anything and everything you could possibly imagine), a light-filled breezy dining room with exceptional views over Hanson Bay to the ocean, a stunning living room with endless magazines (all your favourites) and comfy lounges. The rooms (we were in number 19) all offer the same spectacular views out over the clifftops to the ocean. You have your own outdoor terrace (perfect for yoga) and freestanding bath. 

The food is exceptional - fresh, seasonal, interesting (I was obsessed with the broccoli and puffed wheat salad that chef Jack did at the time) - and the menu changes daily. All meals are included in your rate. Baillie Lodges even produce their own gin. 

You can take the long-winding wooden boardwalks down to Hanson Bay - the water is a stunning turquoise - and then continue on along the cliffs. Swimming can be hazardous though (I don't recommend it!!) thanks to the Great Whites who like to hang out in the area. You will notice abalone divers though (brave people!), who go out in their little cages to dive for abalone. Apparently the belief is that if they are right on the bottom on the sea floor, the sharks will leave them alone.

Southern Ocean Lodge also has an on-site day spa, and a long and lovely list of treatments. The treatment rooms look over the ocean.

There are a wide selection of island activities on offer (kayaking for example) - unfortunately most of these are not included in your rate, so you will need to fork out a bit extra if you are interested in doing any. But the mountain bikes are awesome, and I would highly recommend taking them out to explore the property and surrounds.

This is a true super lodge, luxury experience - Australia’s very first - and one I couldn't recommend more highly. It is well and truly beyond beautiful here. 

[atlas mountains soundtrack. slow it down]

Less than 45 minutes from Marrakesh, in the foot of the Atlas Mountains, lies this incredible mountain Kasbah. Perched majestically on a hill, overlooking the Ourika Valley and beyond, the Kasbah commands breathtaking views - quite possibly one of the most spectacular settings of any hotel we have visited so far.

In a former life, owner Stephen Skinner was a barrister in the UK. Stephen traveled to Morocco for the first time in 1998, and this is where his love affair with this country began. He bought (and renovated) a beautiful riad in Marrakesh (Riad Edward). And then in 2004, bought the land here. Taking 5 years to build, the Kasbah opened to the public in 2009 (in the heart of the recession). Stephen’s brief for designer Romain Michel-Meniere at the time was to create a simple, Berber-style oasis.

Bab Ourika extends well beyond a simple oasis, this heavenly retreat is at once not only stylish but also eco-friendly. Made from rammed earth – a traditional Berber building technique – the Kasbah has admirable eco-credentials and sustainability practices. Thick walls provide environmentally sound insulation so air-conditioning is unnecessary, hot water (and underfloor heating) supply is heated by solar panels, there is a water recycling system, and there is also a programme in place to generate its own electricity and to assist the local community with projects funded by the hotel for the benefit of local Berber schools and villages.

Sourcing most of the furnishings locally, designer Romani Michel-Meniere paired natural earthy tones with Berber textiles. The Moroccan influence both lovely, and subtle. We love the hand-made leather chairs (made by local craftsmen), rugs and lanterns.

The Kasbah has 15 rooms in the main building and 6 suites, with incredibly comfortable beds, and fine linens. Most rooms have private terraces as well. At the time of our visit, Stephen was putting the finishing touches on a new pool suite, which once revealed, will be beyond amazing. To the left of the most magnificent herb and veggie garden we have ever seen, this beautiful new suite will have a large terrace and infinity pool, with sweeping views of the entire valley. It is so beautiful here.

We fell in love with the completely mesmerizing 360 degrees views of the Atlas Mountains and the Ourika Valley, the endless sunshine, the changing colors throughout the day, the lush and shady terraces and hidden alcoves. In winter, you can cosy up by the fire in one of the many common living areas.

The restaurant and the service found here are both outstanding. Rashid, our porter, gets a special mention for his kind, sweet smile and warm hospitality. Despite neither of us speaking the same language, we were able to communicate easily over my two day visit and Rashid helped me find friendly hiking paths and gave directions into the nearby villages.

This is a breathtakingly beautiful retreat, and easy to see why it was named one of the Fodders Top One Hundred Hotels of the World in 2011. We cant wait to return.

To eat.

The in-house restaurant serves locally sources food, as well as seasonal finds from their very own (and very impressive) herb and vegetable garden. Traditional Berber recipes, with a more modern twist. Meals can be served in the garden or in the beautiful colonnaded indoor restaurant. Our beef tagine with peas was served with homemade Berber bread and local Moroccan wine. For breakfast, enjoy eggs anyway (try their Berber omelette), fruit salad, yoghurt, granola, and fresh bread. The coffee is good as well.

To do.

Lounge by the lovely secluded pool.

Hang out in the garden – find a shady spot under the trees – read, relax, play cards, nap.

Explore nearby Berber villages, and be sure to visit the local Monday Berber market at nearby Trine Ourika.

Hike, trek, ski or ride in the nearby mountains.

And visit Bab Ourika’s sister properties…

In Marrakesh…Riad Edward  // In Skoura…Dar Faracha (House of the Butterflies). A beautiful private house with 3 bedrooms. Can be rented with a maid/cook, or without.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to the atlas mountains (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. will martin, brittney nicole costello, scott cook]

[austin soundtrack. ho hey]

Now this is a city that knows how to have fun.

Texas’ capital is laid-back and progressive, with a strong emphasis on music, outdoor brews and good food…and where BBQ is a religion!!

The stereotype is true. Southern hospitality is alive and well in Texas. From pedicab cyclists to food cart vendors to skateboarders to shop owners and boot-scooters; locals here are warm, sweet and welcoming.

A full-of-fun, honky-tonking town on any occasion, our favorite time to visit is in March for South by South West (SXSW): the annual music, film, and interactive conference and festival, where 70,000 of the world’s movers and shakers take over the town. October is another perfect time (for the Austin City Limits (ACL) festival), where Zilker Park explodes with a sweet line-up of bands.

At any time of year though, Austin will impress.

On our first ever visit here, our taxi driver took great pleasure in educating us on “Stevie” Ray Vaughan, as we drove past his memorial statue in Austin’s Auditorium Shores Park. Vaughan was an American guitarist/singer-songwriter/record producer who was tragically killed in a helicopter crash in 1990 and was then posthumously inducted into the Blues Hall of Fame in 2000. We sat there listening to the legend’s tunes belt out of our cab driver’s stereo. A fitting introduction to what would be the beginning of an Austin love affair for all things music, and more.

Aside from the recos below, grab a copy of ‘Rather Austin’. A cute little city guide that became our go-to – focusing exclusively on locally owned restaurants and stores. The perfect companion for navigating your way through Austin’s streets.

1. To caffeinate…

The espresso-based coffee scene is starting to take off in Austin. Perhaps not to the same extent as our favorite coffee town, Portland, but if you love good coffee as much as we do, there are definitely a few options...

Houndstooth: a handsome space with friendly service. You can even order a flat white.

Flat Track Coffee: a few locations, but their flagship store is a cute, tiny space with just six bar stools and an inviting bench out the front.

Wright Bros. Brew & Brew: we love this concept – equal parts coffee shop and classic bar, you will find specialty coffee and craft beer in a comfy setting.

Cafe Medici: good brews and snacks. You will find the Bearded Brothers’ bars here. We are obsessed. Raw, vegan, gluten and soy free, organic goodness (made in Austin)! We have also found them at Jo’s Coffee at Hotel San Jose.

Vintage Heart Coffee: located on the East side. Fair trade coffee brews from local roasting company, Third Coast.

Frank: the purveyor of artisan sausage! Despite their moniker being all around hot dogs and cold beer, these guys serve up delicious Handsome Coffee. As passionate about their sausage as they are about their coffee!

Patika: great coffee from a little food truck in the Warehouse District. A good place to stop on the way to Franklins BBQ.

Finally, if you are lucky enough to be in Austin for SXSW this year – make sure you pop by SouthBites – the gourmet foodtruck area curated by celebrity chef, Paul Qui. Perfectly located on Driskill Street, at the top of bar-crazy Rainey Street, you will find our very own HOUSE OF CARD pop-up coffee house. Our little cardboard house will be pumping out good quality Aussie-style coffee, including   flat whites, lamingtons and Tim Tam slams!

2. To eat…

Elizabeth Street Café: if you only eat in one spot (which you wont...but this is how much we love it!!) make sure it is here. A hybrid of Vietnamese and French deliciousness, this bright and aesthetically stunning café is by the same folk behind our seafood favorite, Perla’s. We love everything about this place – the minty color scheme, amazing food, friendly service, the waitresses in their cute 50s style smocks, the Stumptown coffee, and the stunning outdoor terrace shaded by oak trees. We find it hard to pass up the luscious banh mi sandwiches served on house-baked baguettes, and the big bowls of bun (order the shrimp!) that come with vermicelli noodles and fresh seasonal vegetables. No bookings, so get there early. Any wait, however long, is well and truly worth it. We promise.

Perla’s: for any meal – but we love the brunch here. Grab a seat out on the oak-shaded patio, with its little white lights and great views of the action on South Congress. If you’re brunching, order the lobster frittata.

Brunch at Hillside Farmacy: with vintage pharmacy charm, we love this cute east-side spot. With antique wooden display cases, tin ceiling and hex-tiled floor all intact, the pharmaceutical theme is played well here. Great farm-to-table food options. Finish off brunch with one of their seriously good ice cream sandwiches.

Walton’s Fancy and Staple: a cute spot for coffee and breakfast. This lovingly restored historic West 6th Street building now houses Walton’s bakery, café and sandwich bar, as well as a florist and interiors store.

Dinner at Uchiko: a sleek and contemporary Japanese, offering pretty extraordinary sushi. Uchi is also theirs (in another location)…but Uchiko is definitely the “Prince Harry of the pair”…the younger, hipper version.

Check out Fresa’s Chicken al Carbon: for drive through organic, charcoal chicken (by the same people behind Perla’s and Elizabeth Street)!

Justine’s Brasserie: cute upscale French bistro on the east-side, with a lovely outdoor terrace. Always busy. Consistently good food.

Pizza from Home Slice: when you want something quick and easy. Home Slice pizza is a great option. Thin base, great toppings. We love it here, especially late night (after the Continental Club).

Guero’s Taco Bar: for margaritas and tacos. Fun during festival times. Not the best Mexican you will ever eat, but definitely fun.

Franklin BBQ: for your first Texan BBQ experience, come here – but get in quick (by 2pm we hear), and join the queue outside this turquoise cinderblock building on a nondescript street corner. This place has such a good reputation that the whole restaurant will often sell out, and fast. During SXSW we have even heard of people paying $15 per hour for people to stand in line for them! Gotta love anyone so passionate about their brisket!

East Side King: located in East Austin – this was Paul Qui’s (Top Chef winner) first restaurant – come here for Asian fusion, with a second location having recently opened on South Lamar Blvd. Famous for their Thai Chicken Karaage and Beet Home Fries. Also try the Poor Qui Buns (steamed roasted pork belly buns) and Brussel Sprouts salad.

La Condesa: the perfect stop if you are craving some modern Mexican.

Josephine House: this bungalow-turned-lazy-lunching-destination has only 30 seats. A cute spot to kick back with a few afternoon cocktails.

Food Carts: Austin loves a Food Cart…trailer, cart, truck, Airstream, wagon…any way they come, they love them all…and they seem to be growing by the day. Set up in parking lots, on sidewalks, parked in groups, or set up solo, they really are everywhere.

3. To drink…

Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden: at the quiet end of Sixth Street, this “very Austin” hipster hangout has a bakery on street level, and a downstairs, tree-shaded patio and beer garden scattered with ping-pong and picnic tables. We love this spot.

East Side Showroom: industrial-ish, prohibition-style drinking den serving flawless cocktails.

Rainey Street: cruise down Rainey Street for a real nightlife block party. A whole row of bars and restaurants operated out of cute, historic weatherboard homes. We like Lustre Pearl.

Stubbs: come here for live music and BBQ. On Red River Street, this huge bbq joint with a dusty stage out back is an Austin institution. Regularly snagging massive headliners – Lady Gaga will be on a pop-up stage here at SXSW this year.

Boot scoot at the Continental Club on South Congress: an Austin staple, especially on a Sunday night. This is the Granddaddy of all local music venues. Awesome live rockabilly tunes. Be sure to check out Dale Watson: a local and legendary honky tonk and country singer.

The White Horse: another Eastside favorite. This hipster / honky tonk hybrid bar draws a crows of tattoo-covered rockabillies, two-steppin’ retirees, as well as hipsters. Showcasing some of Austin’s finest new country talent, the energy here is fun and debaucherous, and is best mid-week.

Contigo: created as an extension of Contigo Ranch, the beautiful elm-tree covered deck here is so popular that you better be willing to wait (sometimes two hours on weekends). A beautiful spot for a drink.

Midnight Cowboy: this secretish speakeasy spot is located downtown. With no sign, just find the door, ring the buzzer (titled “Harry Craddock”) and you will be let into this former brothel-turned-bar.

Péché in the Warehouse District: another hidden treasure serving up pre-prohibition style cocktails, specializing in absinthe.

Whisler’s in East Austin: a relative newcomer to 6th Street, lots of outdoor seating if you are looking for somewhere on a sunny day. 

The Gatsby: Scott Cook can be found behind the bar at this little 1920s speakeasy bar, with a pretty back patio. Great cocktails. Pop in after dinner at East Tiger.

Ginny's Little Longhorn Saloon in North Central: this institution is worth a visit…especially on a Sunday, to catch a live show by Austin legend, Dale Watson. Stay for Chicken Sh*t Bingo (and free chilli dogs)!

5. To shop…

By George: for great vintage…check out our favorite store on South Congress. Think Isabel Marant, Helmut Lang and others, plus local artisans as well.

JM Dry Goods: If you really want to embrace the Texan spirit jmdrygoods.com : an eclectic, Mexican-influenced boutique, for your very own pair of vintage cowboy boots.

Another favorite is the Spartan Shop on South Lamar…”a carefully edited collection of beautiful, practical objects, influenced by the changing seasons without staying far from our core inventory of reliable, classic items”. We could literally buy every single thing in this stunning store!

Uncommon Objects: our favorite antique store. A huge space, choc-a-block full of fascinating things hanging from walls and the ceiling.

Waterloo Records: on North Lamar, this is the ultimate record store. An Austin institution.

6. To sleep…

Hotel San Jose: this is undeniable one of our favorite hotels in the USA. The epitome of understated cool. Polished concrete floors, music posters adorning the walls, an urban oasis. Ideally located on South Congress, this legendary Austin boutique hotel has a cute bar, pool, and lounge, and their very own coffee shop – Jo’s Coffee – next door.

Saint Cecilia: for something a little more fancy, check out the San Jose’s sister property - the Saint Cecilia.  A stunning, secluded estate just around the corner– tucked off the main drag, on manicured lawns, with a large swimming pool and gorgeous bar. Perfect for a big group or wedding party. You might find a piano in your suite, or a turntable, perhaps a real backyard.

7. To do…

Visit Barton Springs: a set of four natural hot water springs close to the city. Come here to seek respite from the often-scorching Texas heat. Cool off in the pool, or chill out under the trees. A great spot to cruise around on bikes.

Head to old-school bowling alley/karaoke bar/dance hall Highball for a nightcap and late-night round at the lanes (especially during their extended hours for SXSW).

Visit the original Wholefoods!! It might not be at the top of everyone’s list, but it certainly was for us! This is the Wholefoods mecca. The original. The best. Wine bar, vegan food bar, you name it – they have it. Our kind of heaven.

Out of town...

Roadtrip to Driftwood, Texas: home to the original and well-renowned Salt Lick BBQ – a BBQ fanatic’s paradise. This sprawling campus of BBQ has been smoking, searing and slow cooking meat over coals for years. Since 1967, in fact. A short, scenic drive from Austin, come here to experience a big, honking plate of some of the best of Texan bbq amongst rolling hills, beautiful oak trees and native flowers. It might take an hour to nab one of the picnic tables, but kick back and enjoy the live music and atmosphere with other BBQ enthusiasts. There is even an onsite vineyard producing some decent wines under the Salt Lick Cellars label. Given they attract 600,000 customers each year, we figure they must be doing something right.

Marfa: if you have time, hire a car and drive six hours west into the high desert of the Trans-Pecos in far West Texas, to Marfa. An unlikely art oasis in a dusty desert town. If you can, wait until July so to catch some of the Marfa Film Festival action.

Stay here at El Cosmico: an awesome part vintage trailer, safari tent and teepee hotel and campground – come hang out under the stars with hippies, hipsters and artists – surrounded by high desert, art installations, an amphitheater and greenhouse. This place is something special.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to austin (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. Manuela sosa and jordi mestre]

[Barcelona soundtrack. new track]

Barcelona. Known for its great quality of life (almost year-round sunshine, beaches and mountains), this artistic and cultural hub, is full of beauty and inspiration. “Barcelona nourishes creativity”, said Ferran Adria, chef and “Barcelover”. And you can feel that energy here. A perfect mix of all our favorite things – the beach, good food, design and architecture (hello Gaudi), open and dynamic people, lots of beautiful green spaces (and awesome views from Parc Güell) and great music – this is the perfect place to hang out for a few days. With streets full of history, there is nothing better than getting lost in the little narrow laneways that make up the Barri Gòtic. Hang with locals in Gracia, or find cool stuff popping up out of converted warehouses in El Poblenou.  

With so much to do, and so much to eat (but never enough time)…we have listed below just a few of our favorite things (from last summer) to get you started on a quick 2-day visit.

To caffeinate.

Over the past few years, specialty coffee has really taken off in Barcelona, and you will definitely be impressed by whats on offer. These are some of our favorites:

Coffee lab & shop by nomad productions: this is easily one of the most beautiful coffee corners we have found so far. Jordi Mestre found this stunning space, tucked away down Passatge Sert in El Born, after returning from life in London. He returned to Barcelona to do what he does best – coffee. You wont find any food here. No different kinds of milk. No sugar. Just straight up coffee. Jordi buys green beans, roasts them and turns them into delicious brews. It’s beautiful here.

Satan’s coffee corner: in a beautiful light and airy space, tucked down the end of a laneway in the Barri Gòtic – Carrer de l’Arc de Sant Ramon del Call – Satan’s young owner Marcos is doing great things in the world of coffee. Offering a great food menu as well, and even better, very friendly service (shout-out to Marcos’ hilarious brother), we love passing by here.

Sky coffee co (check their opening situation – we think they may have closed this summer (2015)): housed inside a big El Poblenou warehouse (which also plays home to an architecture firm), the Sky Coffee Co serve their delicious brews out of a cute 1972 Citroen HY. We love a good pop-up, and this little guy is no exception. Sky was the first to bring good coffee to the Catalan streets.

To eat.

Le Pepita (Costega 343): for tapas in a can! We love this little corner bar. Fun, noisy, and not only packed full of visitors, locals too. Try to book, or put your name down and wait awhile. We love sitting at the bar. Famous for their namesake – Las Pepitas (a thin sandwich filled with all sorts of different fillings – we like the tuna one with avocado, mitzuna salad and a ginger/soy dressing). Also try their homemade tapa in a can. These little ‘tapalatas’ are great. Not very Spanish, but we like the hummus with beet salad, mint and cucumber. Fresh and full of flavor. The argentine beef skewer with chimichurri was incredible.

La Paradetta: this place is not fancy, but if you are looking for good fish and something casual, come here. Choose your catch and pay by weight. It’s all about the food.

Mercat de la Boqueria: yes, it’s in every guidebook, but for good reason. A beautiful, lively market in the heart of Barcelona with great little food stalls, and fresh produce. Another one to check out is the (very similar) Mercat de Poblenou in the much less touristy neighborhood of Poblenou. Equally as wonderful, this mercat has been keeping the Poblenou neighborhood well-fed since 1913.

To drink.

Plaza del Sol: one of the loveliest plazas in Barcelona, in a very Catalan neighborhood, this is our favorite place to hang out on a sunny afternoon. With hippy vibes, this is where the locals come to drink when the sun comes out. Music from the surrounding bars fills the square, and people sit around drinking and eating tapas. Order tapas from Sol Soler – cheap, authentic and delicious. Drink at Sol de Nit (which also has good music).

Barcelona Pipa Club: most bars in Barcelona close at 2am…but one bar in Plaza Real found a way to get around that, and that is the Pipa Club. By claiming they are a “pipe association” they have a late-night license until 6am. Best to go after 1am or 2am. A really fun club. Ring the bell and go up to the second floor. Relaxed, old school bar with lots of dark wood.

Balius bar: in el poblenou. We stumbled across this beautiful corner bar by mistake. The colored mosaic tiles out the front luring us in. run by a friendly Scotsman and his Spanish wife, pioneers in the bar industry. They were responsible for introducing the G&T to this part of the world. Great cocktails, and a fantastic local and sustainable food menu.

To shop.

Gang and the Wool: a little out of town, but absolutely worth a visit. There is something very magical about Manuela Sosa’s floristry and her very special little greenhouse.

Els Encants: the oldest flea-market in Barcelona. Originally called the “Old Charms” flea-market, this renovated open air complex near the Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes is where you can find all things trash and treasure. Antique furniture, door handles, old records, vintage clothes, postcards, posters and more.

Iriarte iriarte: check out Caroline Iriarte’s original and beautiful handcrafted leather bags.

To sleep.

Casa Gracia: the epitome of a boutique hostel. Perfectly located on Calle Gracia, right in the heart of Gracia, this big old building with vaulted ceilings, large picture windows, and a wonderful sunny terrace, has a chic and minimal aesthetic and is the perfect place to stay. If your days in a dorm are over (as ours are!), choose one of the private rooms with private bathroom. A friendly and in-the-know concierge will help you with any local recommendations you need. A simple breakfast is served on the terrace each morning, and a little sangria bar is set up in the same space by night. Always hosting fun music events, themed dinners and parties, this is a fun and lively place to stay. You can choose to get as involved, or not, as you like. With big plans to grow over the coming years, it’s an exciting time to visit Casa Gracia.

El Paulauet: for something more fancy (and expensive), you might be interested in these beautiful suites housed in a 1906 art noveau building. Also located on Calle Gracia, each suite is assigned with a personal assistant who will act as your dedicated concierge for your stay. A lovely sleeping option.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to barcelona (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. josh gold]

[our big sur soundtrack.]

there is a pleasure in the pathless woods; there is a rapture on the lonely shore; there is society, where none intrudes, by the deep sea, and music in its roar: i love not man less, but nature more.*

The isolated beauty of Big Sur is breathtaking. Nestled into the steep curves of the Santa Lucia Mountains, surrounded by remarkable redwoods and rocky beaches, there is magic in the air here. A long and windy journey north of Los Angeles, or south from San Francisco, the scenery along the Pacific Ocean is totally awe-inspiring. We were wowed by a pod of gray whales, on their migration north back to their summer feeding grounds in the North Pacific. These amazingly humble and beautiful creatures, perhaps ten of them, entertained us for what seemed like hours. Seals, dolphins, birds as well, as if on queue, on stage, showing off in their stunning surrounds. The air is clear, the nature wild and free, and the energy intoxicating…and as Henry Miller said, there is at once, an “eloquent silence” here. Just wait to be swept away by the magical energy.

1. To sleep…

Sleeping options are somewhat limited…but there are definitely a couple of choices for every budget. If you are craving a little bit of luxe, and don’t mind spenny, then I would definitely recommend Post Ranch Inn or Ventana (where the “rustic charm of Ventana’s weathered cedar buildings belie the luxury within”). For something a little more affordable, try Deetjen’s: a charming bed and breakfast nestled into a lush and windy part of the coastal drive; or Glen Oaks: an updated 1950s motor lodge/turned cabins (I hear good things about their River View cabins. Or lastly, save your pennies altogether, and pitch a tent. There are countless campgrounds to choose from. Be one with nature - so many magical spots. We loved the look of the Andrew Molera State Park Trail Camp, perfectly located within walking distance of the Big Sur Rivermouth. Bordered on one side by the Big Sur River, this campground is in a grassy meadow dotted with large trees, and is just a short walk to the beach. None more perfect a place to set up camp.

2. To eat…

Eat at the Big Sur Bakery: breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner - or all of the above! A Big Sur staple. We love starting the day here, and then ending it here as well. Take home a copy of The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook: filled with Big Sur history, Big Sur personalities, and some seriously delicious recipes.

Deetjen’s: for the best eggs benedict in town (according to my beloved Big Sur aficionado – Skye Byrne). A charming, rustic and woody atmosphere, on the edge of the redwood forest in Big Sur.

2. To drink…

Our favorite place for a sunset drink is the Cliffside restaurant and bar at the Post Ranch Inn. We couldn't quite afford the $1500+ price-tag to stay the night, but figured a bottle of rose, watching the sun go down from the outside bar, was just as good. Clear skies, so many stars, pure magic.

Nepenthe: a great place to grab a drink or bite at sunset. Killer views over the Pacific as the sun goes down. If you have already eaten, or have dinner plans later, just pop in for a drink…and cosy up by the fire if it’s chilly outside.

Night cap at the Big Sur Village Pub: we had a very fun night at this quaint little pub, just meters down the hill from the Big Sur Bakery. Friendly service, live music [ryan dishen was playing the night we were there: so good, we took home a copy of his album, new windows. the kid can sing], and good brews. A perfect way to end the most perfect of days.

3. To do…

Hike: to the McWay Falls in the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park – a picturesque waterfall, which drops over jagged cliffs into the Pacific Ocean, just a short walk from Highway 1. Sadly, you can’t get down close to the waterfall, but this is a main feature of the park and definitely worth checking out. Just go early, as the crowds start to roll up pretty soon after breakfast.

Visit: the Big Sur River Mouth, through the Andrew Molera State Park - a lovely beach you can access by walking through a stunning meadow. We had the beach completely to ourselves when we visited shortly after sunrise.

Surf: exploring the rugged Big Sur coastline on a surfboard is an experience not to be missed. Jaw-dropping coastal scenery, empty lineups, and enough wilderness to get truly lost in! The ocean here demands respect. The Big Sur Rivermouth, for example, can sometimes have good waves, but beware of fast currents that can close out the waves, and the shallow sandbar.

Get nude: at the Esalen Institute’s Public Night Hot Springs (1am-3am). A spectacular setting – natural hot springs, which hug the cliff-side of the Pacific Ocean. Reservations essential. Relax, unwind and get naked. The famed (and famously private) Esalen Institute opens to the public for 2 hours each evening. A maximum of 20 visitors are allowed each night. The hot springs can reach temperatures of 115 °F (46 °C), but are cooled significantly by the coastal air. Total darkness keeps this sanctuary shrouded in secrecy.

Hikes: so many wonderful options, for all different levels. You can’t go wrong.

Whale Watching: watch these stunning creatures – gray whales – pass Big Sur in December and January, on their migration south to their breeding and calving grounds off the Baja California coast. In March and April, they can be seen returning north to their summer feeding grounds in the North Pacific.

A MUST: if you are very lucky, and you time it right, catch a live show at the Henry Miller Library. An unbelievably magical and hidden experience – a little stage tucked deep in the forest, among the big Reds, secluded and only for an audience of 300. Grizzly Bear, Beach House and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs all played in this mystical place last summer. Doesn’t get more radical than that.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to big sur (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. maggie hansdorfer and laura o’neill]

[Brooklyn soundtrack. heaven]

There is something about the charm, authenticity and ever-present feeling of opportunity here, that makes Brooklyn a very special place. The Brooklyn Mag nails it when they describe this borough of New York as being the “darling of Hollywood-weary celebrities, avant-garde chefs, and independent-minded New Yorkers”. Made up of so many different pockets and neighborhoods, Brooklyn is so much bigger than at first thought. We have spent most of our days in Williamsburg (fast becoming known as “little Australia”) and Greenpoint, but we have also dabbled around in Brooklyn Heights, Dumbo, Boerum Hill, Carroll Gardens, Cobble Hill, Clinton Hill and Fort Greene –hoods that all seem to have a lot of goodness to offer. Get bikes and cruise around. More low-key than its big city NYC neighbor, we have highlighted some of our favorite things below.  

WILLIAMSBURG

So close to the city (just a stop or two on the L-train), this hip little hang-out offers so much. We love it here.

To caffeinate…

Toby’s Estate: yes, they are Australian (and we might therefore be slightly biased), but this open, airy space is so beautiful, the staff friendly (albeit hipster to the holt), and the coffee is good. Damn good. The pastries are also amazing…and you can get some awesome Aussie favorites like vegemite or avo on toast. Not to be missed. (Note: if they are still doing the caramel dipped macaroons, it would be a crime not to try one. The start of something good).

Blue Bottle: An awesome brick building on Berry Street that was once filled with glass blowers, and metal smiths, and barrel makers…but now houses Blue Bottle’s coffee roaster and café. It’s a great space, and very good (serious) coffee.

To eat…

Café Colette: another Berry Street favorite of ours, we adore this cute little French corner spot. Grab a seat at the bar, or a cosy corner booth. Brunch is amazing, but anytime of day will do. This little local haunt will impress, always.

Café Mogador: Moroccan deliciousness on Wythe Ave. Come here for the eggs. Brunch here is awesome. Packed full of Moroccan spices, or poached in a za’atar pita, so many delicious flavors, it’s crazy. Queues can be long.

Egg: good for brunch or casual lunch. Light, airy, good vibes.

Walter Foods: another great brunch spot, and raw bar as well. We are told not to miss the French dip at dinnertime. Can’t say we have tried it yet though.

La Superior or Rosarito Fish Shack for tacos.

Roebling Tearoom for eggs for brunch, or for the burger for lunch.

Pastries from Bakeri: super cute French-style bakery on Wythe. Come here for sweet treats or something delicious for lunch. Love the aesthetic, and cute server get-up.

Dumont: for burgers on Bedford.

Saltie: for sandwiches in a super cute little storefront.

Brooklyn Whole Foods Market: the most exciting new addition to the Williamsburg scene (we love a good Whole Foods!). It’s beautiful here. We challenge you to find another whole foods store that has a record store inside it…?! Doesn’t get more Brooklyn than that !

For dinner…

Marlow & Sons: an old favorite. This cute spot has been tucked away under the Williamsburg bridge for almost ten years now. Cosy, always busy, American goodness. We love the back bar. Great food, try the brick chicken. A romantic little dinner option.

Diner: we came here to this 1920s-restored dining car restaurant on our first ever trip to New York in the year 2000. Armed with a hitlist of recommendations, we quickly tried to tick this one off, and it quickly became one of our Brooklyn favorites. American Nouveu food and good vibes. Brunch also good.

Fette Sau: this is the place to come for meat. Good ol’ fashioned no-frills meat. Ribs, steak, pork belly…the choice is yours. Busy and fun. You pay by the pound.

Dotory: Korean is the flavor of the month for us right now, and Dotory is just the place to fix that hankering.

Reynard: within the beautifully-restored Wythe Hotel warehouse building, come here for seasonal deliciousness in a gorgeous environment.

For something sweet…Momofuko Milk Bar, Bakeri, or Saltie.

To drink…

Wythe Hotel Rooftop: our #1. This is our favorite place for a sunset drink in all of New York. The views from the bar and rooftop are spectacular. Nothing screams New York City more, than looking back over the East River to Manhattan as the sun goes down over the Manhattan skyline. Great cocktails, delicious wines, good vibes.

Hotel Delmano: we love cocktails here before or after a fun dinner in the hood. Grab one of the leather banquettes or sit up at the long marble bar for some seriously tasty drinks.

D.O.C. Wine Bar: our favorite Williamsburg wine bar.

Vine Wine: when you are feeling like a night in, or a few wines by the riverfront, grab a bottle from our favorite neighborhood wine store. A great range of wines…and always a bunch in the “under $15” section that are super affordable and really delicious.

The Commodore: fun bar and good, easy bar food.

For music…

Pete’s Candy Store: don’t be fooled by the name, you wont find candy here – rather, a music venues / bar / club.

Brooklyn Bowl: according to Rolling Stone magazine, this is “one of the most incredible places on earth”! This is a bowling alley that not only acts an awesome performance space, but also serves high-quality, delicious food care of Blue Ribbon, bars offering local brews, as well as 16 bowling lanes. Located in the former Hecla Iron Works (built 1882), this is definitely worth checking out.

The Red Bull Music Academy: an awesome concept. The Red Bull Music Academy is a world-traveling series of music workshops and festivals. Two groups of 30 participants have been chosen – producers, singers, djs, etc from around the world – to come together in a new city each year for two weeks worth of recording sessions, lectures, collabs and performances around town. A platform for those who make a difference in today’s musical landscape. The Academy began back in 1998, and was set-up in Williamsburg last year. Now in 2014, the Academy will be held in Tokyo, Japan.

To sleep…

Wythe Hotel: our favorite hotel in New York. This is the only place to stay, in our opinion. Unbeatable views, beautiful design, the best rooftop bar New York has to offer, our favorite and most perfectly well-curated mini bar (on par with the ACE anyway), and a great restaurant downstairs. Oh and super friendly staff. It doesn’t get any better.

If you’re not on a hotel budget, there are some really awesome rental apartments to be found on Airbnb.

To do….

Enjoy a Sunday Supper: a communal cooking center in Williamsburg. Shared meals, communal cooking, and seasonally, market-fresh food. The founder used to host these suppers in their home, but the dinners have evolved and are now housed in a beautiful space documenting food, travel and life. A great supper last year offered produce sourced from local North Brooklyn Farms, in a stunning location in Havemeyer Park with a view of the Williamsburg Bridge and a summer sunset behind the Manhattan skyline. For only $45, you were presented with a delicious seasonal menus by notable local chefs, and cocktails from Sailor Jerry.

Brooklyn Grange Farm: we came to this – the world’s largest rooftop soil farm (located on two roofs in New York City) – for a communal rooftop dinner party last September. Crazy sunset views from our Long Island location back over Manhattan. Quite spectacular. On what we thought would be a warm evening though, we freezed our little bottoms off as the winds set in!! Nevertheless, the setting was breathtaking…and if more prepared, with some winter woolies, we would have been toastie and much more content. An interesting food offering, paired with local Brooklyn craft brews. This is a space where 50,000lbs of organically-cultivated produce is grown each year. Brooklyn Grange also provides urban farming and green roof consulting and installation services to clients worldwide, as well as partnering with numerous non-profit organizations throughout New York to promote healthy and strong local communities.

Eagle Street Rooftop Farm: the chickens in the coop here on this impressive rooftop urban farm in Greenpoint, have the best views of Manhattan we have seen. Three stories up, on the banks of the East River and with a sweeping view of the Manhattan skyline, Eagle Street Rooftop Farm is a 6,000 square foot green roof organic vegetable farm located atop a warehouse rooftop.  During growing season, a farmers market is held here on the roof, and the farm also supplies local restaurants with produce. As well as that, the farm also hosts a range of farm-based educational and volunteer programs. Open to the public, during growing season, on Sundays between 1pm-4pm.

MoMA PS1: we stop here at least once on visit to the city. A branch of MoMA, this is one of the oldest and largest nonprofit contemporary art institutions in the US. An exhibition space with a constant rotation of super interesting and thought-provoking experimental art on display. “A catalyst and an advocate for new ideas, discourses, and trends in contemporary art, MoMA PS1 actively pursues emerging artists, new genres, and adventurous new work by recognized artists in an effort to support innovation in contemporary art”. This is a unique artistic environment, and we also love the cute school-style café downstairs that has a great little menu for after-art downtime.

Definitely check out the Domino Sugar Refinery. An abandoned old building in Williamsburg – once a processing plant – is currently filled with a sugar-coated (literally) 75 ft. long, lily-white mammy in the shape of a sphinx, by artist Kara Walker. On display only until July 6.

Cheese, cheese and more cheese from the Bedford Cheese Shop: a visit here is essential. An old-fashioned cheese shop, you will find some amazing cheeses in here, from all across the world.

Van Leeuwen Ice Cream: this is what ice cream is (and should always be) about. Made from scratch, locally in Greenpoint, there is nothing artificial in this creamy goodness. Using only fresh hormone and antibiotic free milk and cream, cane sugar, egg yolks and the best fruits, chocolates, spices and nuts from small producers locally and around the world. Van Leeuwen celebrates ingredients perfected by nature, not science. Starting out with just two Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream scoop trucks in the Spring of 2008, they now have six trucks and three stores around Brooklyn and Manhattan serving their seriously delicious and quality ice creams, fresh pastries and Toby's Estate Coffee. We love the fresh mint. Wow.

Mast Brothers Chocolate: handcrafted, locally-made, quality single estate and single origin chocolate. This space is amazing and definitely worth checking out.

Hang out riverside along the N4th Waterfront.

In need of a mani/pedi? Check out Hello Beautiful.

To shop…

Baggu: we love their colorful leather coin purses, and fun plastic make up and travel bags.

Catbird: our favorite jewelry spot in New York. Dainty little rings, and other beautiful pieces.

Mocium: we love this light-filled, airy store in North Williamsburg. Come here for gorgeous, delicate handcrafted ceramics, textiles and jewelry.

Brooklyn Flea (held in Fort Greene on Saturdays and Williamsburg on Sundays): a classic Brooklyn experience. So many awesome vintage and antique vendors, local food stalls, and an incredible location smack bang on the East River with views back to the city. It stays open through winter, but moves to the former Williamsburg Savings Bank.

Vintage shopping: what Brooklyn is known for. So many places to check out. We always hit up Artists & Fleas (for a rotating selection of vendors, in an old warehouse building); and Beacons Closet (a “cavernous temple of cheap clothes”, for second-hand and vintage clothes and accessories).

Kinfolk: the new Kinfolk studios in Williamsburg are housed in a beautiful lofty warehouse space. At this stage, dedicated entirely to menswear – this building is super impressive and there are big plans for an event space in the future.

Main Drag Music: check out the wide range of music here, all handpicked by musicians themselves.

SOME OF OUR OTHER BROOKLYN FAVORITES…

GREENPOINT

After Williamsburg, this is where we have spent most of our BK time. We love the strong and happy sense of community here. A hive of creativity. Everyone seems to be doing something different, interesting and inspiring, and often for the benefit of the community as well. A dining destination in its own right, there are some amazing eating options here (and the odd Lena Dunham-fan cruising around on Girls sightseeing tours!).

We especially love Franklin Street. Some great little spots to stumble across here.

To eat…

Five Leaves: our #1 favorite brunch spot in all of Brooklyn, on a Bedford Ave corner. Australian/American owned, come here for seriously good food at any time of day. For brunch, it’s always a toss up between the Mushroom Toast (with sautéed kale and poached egg), or the Moroccan Scramble (with chickpeas, crushed avo and sourdough)…or go the burger. Oh and truffle fries. They are a must. Be prepared to wait, especially on weekends. It is absolutely worth it though.

Selamat Pagi: our favorite Balinese resto outside Bali itself. A super cute, warm, welcoming, cosy neighborhood feel-good number. Fresh, seasonal, traditional and inspired dishes from Bali. We have tried everything on the menu, and can safely recommend it all. You can’t go wrong. A cute little bar as well. Pale woods and creams. Good tunes. Happy vibes. It’s beautiful here. 

Paulie Gees: a beautiful old warehouse space dishing up seriously good pizza (be prepared to wait – but wait you can, at the craft brewery next door). Our pick – the Greenpointer: white base, Fior di Latte, Arugula (rocket to us Australians!), Olive Oil, Fresh Lemon Juice and Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano on top. Also famous for their pizzas with hot honey on top.

Calexio: for tacos and margaritas. Lots of locations, a mix of restaurants and food carts.

Alameda: this beautiful neighborhood bistro is a perfect option for your daily hang. They do a mean burger.

Acapulco: come here for old-school Mexican action, this is part-taqueria, part-American diner. Authentic, and cheap. Think sombreros on the walls and colored Mexican rugs as tablecloths. Order the homemade guac, and try their chorizo tacos.

To drink…

Nights and Weekends: come here for great drinks and nachos.

Broken Land Bar: a cosy neighborhood bar, run by locals. Hand-crafted cocktails, beers, fine wines. Oh and a lovely back courtyard.

Dandelion Wine (aka Dandy): a cute boutique wine shop, with a stack of carefully curated and hand-picked little gems. Large selection, many organic or biodynamic, and seriously well priced.

To shop…

Spina: a super cute combination flower and coffee shop…serving Blue Bottle coffee and Dough donuts, together with flowers, plants and lots of local BK designer goods.

Bklyn Curated: this cute interiors store on Franklin Street immediately caught our eye. A gorgeous fit out, and cute back yard, there are heaps of vintage and antique Americana goodies to be found.

DUMBO

Dinner at Vinegar Hill House: a long-time favorite of ours. We love the aesthetic here…somewhat reminiscent of Freemans (where the VHH owners met), more vintage though, but similarly cosy, warm and candle-lit. Seasonal American-style food, flavorsome and delicious. A fun, cosy, winter spot to hang…and brunch good as well.

Pop in and support the artists at LAND Gallery. We were introduced to the LAND studio and gallery a few years ago, which features the work of artists with neurological diversities. We were lucky enough to have a piece commissioned by artist Michael Pellew, who dreams up vignettes of celebrities of his own preference, staged together in any random combination. For me, Michael created a picture of “President Obama, Michael Jackson, Georgia Hopkins, Britney Spears, Angelina Jolie, Mayor Bloomberg, Mr.T and Lady Gaga, and don’t forget Georgia Hopkins”. Pellew’s pop culture drawings have become so popular hey are now available as greeting cards, and sell-out items, at stores like Opening Ceremony. The ACE even hosted a special exhibition for LAND’s artist’s last October. Worth checking out for sure.

Also, if you happen to be in DUMBO in September, check out Photoville: an awesome photographic event held in the Brooklyn Bridge Park– housed in old shipping containers, overlooking Manhattan.

Visit Brooklyn Bridge Park: a beautiful green park, on the banks of the East River, in the shadows of the Brooklyn Bridge. Great views back over Manhattan, and check out the beautiful Jane’s Carousel.

Shop at (or at least swoon-over) ZOE: high-end designer stuff: somewhat rare for this side of the river - in a beautiful space.

DOWNTOWN BROOKLYN

Sleep here…at the 3B boutique bed and breakfast coop. Run by 8 young creatives (artists, singers, writers and designers) out of their original home, this is a great little taste for Brooklyn-style communal living. We stayed here in 2012 and loved the warm and welcoming vibe, and beautifully renovated space, in an awesome location in Downtown Brooklyn. Interesting conversation around the cute and charming kitchen table, you will be cooked a delicious, home-made breakfast each morning.

For accessibility, vibe and value, we think this is the best place to stay in Downtown Brooklyn. These guys have been written up a bunch (in New York Magazine, Budget Travel Magazine, Huffington Post, The Paris Review and more.) So check them out, if you are looking for a more budget option.

FORT GREENE

We love Fort Greene. A neighborhood that is filled with classic brownstones, lots of trees, good restaurants and a strong arts community. Filmmakers, musicians, writers, and dancers now call Fort Greene home. We love its old-school, laid-back feel.

A SMOOCH weekend brunch (or any day breakfast actually) is essential. Owned by a super friendly Australian legend – you will be so happy you found this little beauty. Great organic coffee, food and wine. Cosy, laid-back atmosphere. Cute bench seating on the pretty tree-lined street. Some awesome Aussie-named menu options as well. We love it here. Say hi to Basquali !!

Brooklyn Flea at Fort Greene: on Saturdays (as above). It might not be along the waterfront, but we love the laid-back feel of this neighborhood market – same vendors, different vibe.

Dinner at Roman's: good vibes resonate from this great Italian bistro-style spot, courtesy of the same people behind Marlow & Sons in Williamsburg. Come here for delicious, reasonably-priced pastas and other Italian goodness.

Smoke Joint: for low-key BBQ hang out time. We once read that the “Smoke Joint feels likes the Fort Greene version of Cafe Gitane. Less models, more Baby Back Rib Sauce.” Couldn’t agree more. Come here for ribs and good times.

Franks Cocktail Lounge: this place has a totally local vibe. ‘80s in style, R&B jukebox, always good tunes – think rap, R&B, house, reggae – sometimes djs, sometimes live music. Fun times.

To shop…

Feliz: this cute store on DeKalb Avenue is full of well curated bits and pieces. Cards and jewelry and homewares and cute baby stuff. It’s a lovely spot to check out after brunch at Smooch, just around the corner.

Dossier: what started out as a twice-yearly fashion magazine called Dossier Journal, has now evolved into this cute little boutique. Books, jewelry and vintage finds.

BOERUM HILL

Boerum Hill is another BK neighborhood we love, known for its independent boutiques, restaurants and brownstone-filled streets. Many artists end up here, and there are galleries galore. Arts and culture thrive here in abundance – we came here for a music festival at BAM, but it is also well-known for The Invisible Dog Art Center, Roulette and Issue Project Room, the thriving Smith Street restaurant row and Atlantic Avenue Design district.

BAM: the Brooklyn Academy of Music has been a BK staple for more than 150 years. BAM is home to artists, audiences and ideas. Theatre, dance, music, opera, film and so much more. We were spoiled to catch the Crossing Brooklyn Ferry back in May 2012, witnessing Brooklyn-locals The Walkmen kill it on stage, as well as another fav, Sharon Van Etten.

We loved dinner at this cute and rustic Boerum Hill favorite, Rucola. Inspired by the slow food movement in Piedmont Italy, the menu here is seasonal and constantly changing. Cosy, warm and very inviting, this is a great choice for dinner before or after a show (and just walking distance from BAM).

PARK SLOPE

Sun in Bloom: BK neighborhood favorite for all things gluten-free, vegan and raw! They do amazing cold-pressed juices, coffee with fair-trade, organic beans, and hot drinks using cashew and almond milks. There sweet stuff is amazing as well. We love it here.

BUSHWICK

You’ve got to visit Roberta’s. You will literally wait hours. But the wood-fired pizza is definitely worth the wait (and the extra few stops on the L train). If it’s warm, grab a table outside. On second thoughts, just take whatever table you can get. It will be so busy, you wont have a choice! We love the fact that most of their ingredients come from their very own co-op garden outside.

Try Bunna for fresh and delicious Ethiopian food.We love this story. Friends threw a launch party in June 2011 to celebrate the launch of their new project – Bunna Café. Having only met months earlier, they both shared a desire to promote Ethiopian food, coffee and culture. After hosting a series of popups, dinner parties, appearing at street fairs, fundraisers, music fests, flea markets, and so on…they then raised funds on Indiegogo to open their first permanent location, here on Flushing Ave in Bushwick. These guys feel that Ethiopia has so much to offer the rest of the world, and hope to change the common perception that it is a country in need. Amazing good and really lovely vibes. Check it out for sure.

Brunch at Northeast Kingdom: we love brunch here. The husband-wife team behind Northeast Kingdom offer a contemporary-American menu emphasizing the seasonality of the Northeast. They have their own farm in Ghent NY, and grow vegetables, raise hens and bees, press apples and make beer. A great little spot.

PROSPECT HEIGHTS

Franny’s: a Brooklyn institution, Franny’s has been churning out some of the best pizza and locally-sourced food in Brooklyn for almost 10 years. Having recently moved to a new (and bigger) location – just five-minutes walk from the previous one – you will queue. And queue. And queue. But it’s worth it. Like Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse in San Francisco, Franny’s was one of the early adopters when it came to introducing sustainable and seasonable food to the New York food scene. And it still remains the flagship.

Weather Up: chilled vibes, good tunes, friendly service. Come here for a drink. If you are hungry, grab dinner across the street at The Vanderbilt. Tribeca (and Austin TX) location as well.

CARROLL HILL

Pok Pok: this Portland-favorite headed East, and people here in BK are going just as crazy for it.  Fresh takes on Thai classics. Try their yummy Thai-inspired cocktails as well.

OTHER BK RANDOM…

Make your way to Lefferts Gardens in Prospect Park to witness “Drummer’s Grove”. Established in 1968, these Congo Square Drummers come here every Sunday from April to October from 2pm to dusk. Grab a drum and get involved, or just watch and hang out.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to brookyln (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. Robert Earl Thomas and Inez Valk-Kempthorne]

[Catskills soundtrack. girl from the north country.]

It may only be two hours from New York City (a super easy and beautiful drive or train ride), but once here, you will feel a million miles away. Come to this stunning part of the world to do a lot, or nothing at all. The Catskills region certainly does, however, inspire adventure. Spectacular mountains to hike or bike, creeks to jump through, rivers to float down, forests to get lost in, and breathtaking views to take in. Amazing food, wilderness, farm stands, farmers markets, orchards, colors (especially in fall), peace, calm, stillness, sunsets, cosy suppers, arts and culture, bookstores, antiques, roadside diners, small-town bars, swimming holes, ziplines through the forest…you can find it all. On the way up, be sure to stop at the Storm King Art Centre – a definite highlight of our three-day adventure (and only one hour out of New York). And check out as many of the region’s little towns as you can – each with their own quirks and charm – we found much to love.

HUDSON.

There’s an urban vibe here in Hudson, or “Rubarnism” (as described by Ann Marie Gardner, a local resident and founder of the Modern Farmer magazine), “when urban expats bring their cultural touchstones and appetites with them when they move to a place like Hudson”. With echoes of Brooklyn, this quaint little town offers a young, creative, simple aesthetic, with country-town vibes. You can feel the momentum build as new shops, galleries and hotels (we are excited to see what comes of the old Warren Theatre/Inn development) continue to pop up.

To eat and drink.

There is much your stomach will get excited about in these parts. Here are our favorites:

Bonfiglio and Bread: for breakfast. Order the poached egg bowl (on avocado, croutons, lardons, yoghurt and chilli oil); take home a loaf of their sourdough bread, and try the apple cake as well.

Café le Perche: a cute bistro and boulangerie for huge (bigger than your head) sandwiches, on delicious homemade bread, and an open fire.

Swallow: for good, Brooklyn-style coffee (we like that they rotate their coffee providers on a weekly basis. They were serving Heart (our favorite) from PDX on the days we visited).

Hudson Food Studio: for a locally sourced menu with a southeast Asian accent. A cute, narrow space to eat in, or a perfect option for take out as well. We opted for take out on our first night and were blown away by its awesomeness. We wanted to try it ALL…but ended up ordering the Coriander Roasted Carrot Salad (with pickled beets, turnips, baby kale and roasted garlic miso dressing) – which was so market fresh it was amazing – and then the Pork, Greens and Rice (with tofu, ginger, garlic). Hudson Food Studio is a must.

Swoon Kitchen and Bar: a cute and cosy bistro on Warren Street, come here on Thursday nights for burger night – Kinderhook farm all natural grassfed beef served on a toasted brioche bun.

Grazin’: its pretty amazing to find an old-school American diner that serves local, sustainable and organic/biodynamic, and animal welfare approved everything (where possible).

Fish and Game: for something more fancy. It’s a prix fixe, seven-course, omnivores-only menu here. Come here for civilized weekend eating and drinking. 

Truck Pizza: for delicious wood-fired pizza out of the window of a panel van, in the food truck area at 347 Warren Street.

To shop.

Lots of cute little stores (largely antiques) dot Warren Street, making it the ideal place to poke around. These were our favorites:

Hawkins New York: the most beautiful store. We loved the tiled entryway. A curated lifestyle brand (showcasing their own brand, and a bevy of other designers as well). All our favorite things. Candles, rugs, throws, books, and the most beautiful of Burmese Mountain Dogs to keep an eye on everything - Charlie.

Flowerkraut: a stunning space, so so swoonworthy you will want to linger awhile. Come here for homemade sauerkraut, fresh blooms, cute cards, ceramics and all things pretty…by Scottish girl Mairead Travins, and her husband Seth.

RueDePapier: handmade leather bags, made with love by Robyn, a cute Swedish (via Brooklyn) expat.

Hats: by Bosnian-born milliner, Behida Dolic. People travel far and wide (direct from Paris we hear) to order these custom-made hats by Behida.

Red Chair on Warren: for beautiful old antique tables and chairs, and other random beauties.

The Spotty Dog Books & Ale: purely because it’s a bookshop in a bar, and how often do you see that! Once Hudson’s firehouse (from 1889-20022), this space is now a bookstore that has over 10000 titles on its shelves, and a rotating selection of craft beers on tap.

To do.

Visit Basilica Hudson: an amazing arts and performance space in a reclaimed 19th century glue factory on the Hudson waterfront, opened by ex-Hole and Smashing Pumpkins bassist – Melissa Auf der Maur – and her husband Tony Stone. If you are lucky enough to be in Hudson over Thanksgiving weekend, be sure to check out the 2nd annual Farm and Flea market – showcasing a diverse range of products from regional makers, farmers and vintage collectors.

Saturday Farmers Market: for the freshest and the best local county produce (9am-1pm every Saturday from May until November).

If the Union Street Guesthouse is full, we recommend sleeping here: Hudson Merchant House.

PHOENICIA.

To sleep.

The Graham and Co.: we love this spot. One of our most favorite, laidback North American mountain motels. With an Americana aesthetic reminiscent of the ACE, and super friendly bearded staff who will offer you a beer as you check in, this is an idyllic mountain getaway. The perfectly refurbed 1940s motely is located in small-town Phoenicia, and is just a short 5min walk into the centre of (the kitschy) town. It’s a quiet, peaceful and restful place to hang out, and a great base to access the surrounding mountains, and other towns. Rooms are simple and comfy, with whitewashed walls and grey and woody tones. The Graham throws weekend bonfires through winter. In summer, when the weather is good, you can hang by the pool (with good tunes), or bike around. They also put on summer movies on Saturday nights at dusk, near the pool. And they will always sort you out with the best recommendations of where to go and what do in the local area. Breakfast is light but delicious, and showcases local favorites such as fresh breads, cider donuts, eggs, fruit, juice and coffee. There are always good tunes on the stereo, and warm and friendly vibes. Its beautiful here.

To eat and drink.

Peekamoose: for dinner. Sit at the bar (where you can choose from both the bar menu, and the restaurant menu). Amazing hearty soups. Fresh home made bread. Burgers. Steak. Gnudi. Onion Rings. Red wines. Open fires…and a fire pit, complete with complimentary marshmallows and sticks for toasting. Good cosy vibes. Hailing from one of NYC’s finest restaurant groups (think Grammercy Tavern) this is a must stop.

Phoenicia Diner: on Route 28, not far from The Graham, this is the perfect stop for or an amazing post-hike (summer) or post-ski (winter) brunch or lunch. Super friendly and authentic, using only local and seasonal ingredients. Order the skillet and a bloody mary.

To shop.

Scandinavian Grace: a big warehouse space on the side of the highway, showcasing home goods and furniture from Scandinavia and beyond. Good coffee as well. A lovely stop.

To do.

Town Tinker Tubing: plenty of tubing opportunities during summer. Find Town Tinker in downtown Phoenicia, walking distance from the hotel. Keep it mellow and opt for a more slow, and lazy ride – or amp it up and go full deliverance down the faster, bumpier course. Town Tinker will dump you in the river, and after floating all the way down, they will then scoop you up from the other end. FS Tubing: same deal but closer.

Hunter Mountain Zipline: we love a good zipline. This one takes you 600 feet about ground, at 50miles per hour – over the spectacular Catskill mountains.

Kaaterskill Falls Swimming Hole: this is the highest two-tiered waterfall in New York State. From the parking area, walk down to the bridge (be careful, its narrow along the shoulder of the road). Near the bridge is Bastion Falls. Continue on the trail for about .5 miles to the base of Kaatersjill Falls. The water drops 260 feet in two stages. The first drop is 180ft while the second is only 80 ft. The official trail ends here.

If The Graham & Co is full, we recommend sleeping here: at the new Spruceton Inn.

Also, keep an eye out for an ACE Hotel…the word on the street is that there will be one here in these parts very soon…

WOODSTOCK.

To eat. To shop.

Cucina: for a beautiful Italian dinner in a rambling farmhouse in Woodstock. Warm, cosy and impossibly chic and beautiful. On sunny days, request a table on the large wraparound porch. If you would prefer to be inside, ask for a table in the bigger room, its better.

Sweet Sue’s: for pancakes the things that dreams are made of.

Peace, Love and Cupcakes: for other sweet stuff.

Woodstock General Supply: shop here for a curated mix of outerwear, gifts and accessories. Buy a cute Catskills vs. Hamptons sweater.

KINGSTON.

To eat. To shop.

{outdated}: for a light breakfast in an antiques store, where you can literally buy everything you see – including the plate you eat your breakfast from. Or the cup you drink your coffee out of. Sit amongst antique furniture and art. After breakfast at {outdated}, wander around Kingston's Stockade/Uptown District for some shopping.

SAUGERTIES.

To eat.

Miss Lucy’s Kitchen: a cute little spot that feels like something a granny has been running forever. A seasonal market menu inspired by the Hudson Valley, showcasing the finest local produce. All natural and antibiotic free meats; sustainable seafood; pork that is smoked in house; fresh herbs and veggies from their garden; house baked bread; and desserts made from scratch.

To do.

Find Big Pink: as other Dylan fans will know, "Big Pink" is the house that Rick Danko, Richard Manuel and Garth Hudson recording music out of with Bob Dylan in the 60s and 70s. Located down a rough unpaved private dirt road somewhere between Woodstock and Saugerties, this is a bit of a mission to find, but if you love Dylan as much as we do, it is a fun little mission. Ignore the “private property” and “no trespassing” signs and keep driving. If there are cars around, feel free to even knock on the door. The musicians who spend time there now are always happy to welcome visitors.

BLOOMVILLE.

To sleep. To eat. To drink. To shop. To do.

Table on Ten: is our kind of heaven. Located in the teeny tiny town of Bloomville (with a population of just 200), this beautiful, warm and inviting “public house” is pretty much the only reason to stop here…but be sure to make it an essential part of your western Catskills itinerary. Run by the ever-lovely Inez Valk-Kempthorne (a former model) and her partner Justice, Table on Ten is not only a café/ wood-fired pizza restaurant, but also a providore showcasing local artists and farmers goods, as well as a 3-bedroom hotel. If the hotel is full, come here on a Friday or Saturday night for “pizza night”. Incredibly delicious wood-fired pizza with interesting and inventive toppings – our favorite, the lemon-marinated fennel, feta and parsley one. And as recommended by Table on Ten collaborator, Julian, enjoy your pizza with a bottle of Italian Lambrusco – the perfect partner. After dinner, make sure you have room for their signature affogato. This was, without a doubt, the best affogato we have ever experienced – a double shot of espresso (from their very own Table on Ten A3 blend by Irving Farm coffee roasters), coupled with two scoops of their signature homemade fennel seed ice cream. A serious taste sensation. After dinner, spend some time swooning over the shelves of their in-house microstore. We left with a bag full of goodies - homemade (by Inez) granola, stunning 100% Irish linen glass-cloths (from the last traditional damask weaver in all of Ireland), a hand-sketched children’s book "The Wild Unknown" by local artist Kim Krans, and a box of her stunning tarot cards as well. If you are lucky enough to snag one of the three lovely bedrooms, spend the rest of your days hiking (up Mount Utsayantha), riding Icelandic horses (with Heleen Heyning), doing yoga at Table on Ten, skiing at Plattekill (if its winter), or tubing and jumping in swimming holes at Table Rock (if its summer). There is no need to leave. Table on Ten will keep you entertained, well fed and lovingly looked after for days.

Check out these nearby farmers/producers:

Byebrook Farm in Bovina for raw milk, eggs and yogurt.

Bea’s bacon, avocado, Swiss and tomato breakfast sandwiches at Russell’s.

Glen Burnie farm for milk-fed pork, a quart of Moonshine Maple and half-wheel of Danchego.

Last Harvest‘s farmstand for a big bag of sugar snaps.

Lucky Dog Farm Store for meatloaf sandwiches.

Ommegang Brewery for the obvious.

Harpersfield for aged Tilsit.

Stone & Thistle for farm-raised meats and poultry, and their goats’ cheese fudge.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to update new york (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. christoffer hartkopp]

[ericeira soundtrack. Hey mami]

This surfing mecca is home to one of the most sought-after surf beaches in Europe – Ribeira d’ilhas. Only 31 miles northeast of Lisbon, Ericeira is a small fishing village with a charming old town full of traditional Portuguese houses and winding cobblestone streets. With stunning views of the Atlantic ocean, lots of charm in the old town, beautiful Cliffside walking tracks, and amazing beaches – this is a heavenly place to stop for a few days.

We only had two nights here, but still managed to find some beautiful things…and these are our favorites:

To eat/caffeinate.

Magic Quiver Surf&Deli: more than just a surfshop, this cosy corner store in the center of Ericeira’s old town is all about surfboards, surf culture, good coffee, homemade snacks, and a well-curated selection of clothes and accessories. The coffee is excellent and their homemade granola with yoghurt and berries was so tasty – that this became our first stop each morning. Owner Rui has created a space where people can hang out and talk all things surf …he also hosts photography and art exhibitions, live music and movie screenings. A magical little spot.

Uni Sushi: for deliciously fresh sushi and sashimi and a great atmosphere, in one of the old town’s charming and bustling streets.

Pizzamobile (Estrada Nacional 247, Lugar de Ladeiras): we love this – pizza out of a mini-van. Two friends, who share a love for surfing and pizza, have been touring around Portugal in their van selling pizza – now based near São Lourenço Beach, just three kilometers north of Ericeira, they offer delicious pizza at good prices, good people, friendly service, good vibes and awesome views.

Restaurante Prim (Rua 5 de Outubro 16): perfect for delicious wood-fired grilled meats, caiprinhas – and a break from Portuguese (which we love) food. Grab a spot outside.

To drink.

Ribeira d’ilhas Surf Restaurant & Bar: a beautiful walk along the cliffs from Ericeira will bring you here – to Ribeira d’Ilhas - one of Europe’s most well-renowned surf breaks. The new-ish surf restaurant and bar (which was built to much controversy - transforming the once laid back beach into a modern, stylish place to hang)  has a great deck and comfy lounges and offers healthy breakfast and lunch options, delicious Portuguese tarts, great drinks, and then surf lessons, board hire, showers and more.

To do.

Check out all the nearby beaches, especially Ribeira d’ilhas for the surf.

Visit Nico at Wavegliders: this local legend has been shaping boards since 1988. Starting off in his parent’s garage, almost twenty years on, he now operates out of a huge warehouse space 20 minutes outside Ericeira. Super kind and humble, Nico was generous enough to give us a tour of his studio, and took us through the shaping process from start to finish. It only takes him two days to do a board. A variety of styles, his favorite is the “The pig” which he tells us is “More than surfing. It’s a State of mind. Sense of pride”. He also has a guest shaping room where he invites other shapers, once a year, to come and spend time with him. His first guest was Californian shaper Ryan Lovelace, who has since returned to Portugal a few times. Nico is a huge fan of Lovelace’s boards and lovingly showed us the board Lovelace left Nico as a gift. His clients are largely scattered throughout Scandinavia, Italy, Germany and the Netherlands. Our other favorite thing – together with the Surfers Lodge Peniche – Nico can custom shape a board to meet your needs, and then have it delivered to the Surfers Lodge so its there waiting for you when you check in. Muy bien.

Visit Skeleton Sea: an amazing property and art collective, not far from Ribeira d’Ilhas. Skeleton Sea is a green arts project that was started by three surfer friends in a bid to keep the ocean clean. During breaks between surfing, the friends began to salvage trash and other recycled materials they found on the beach – old Chinese glass buoys wrapped in ropes, whale and fish bones, driftwood, wooden and rust metal pars of ship wrecks, porcelain pieces, flotsam and jetsam – to create surf art with a positive message, while tidying up the beach and keeping the oceans clean. An inspiring story. Their works have been exhibited all over the world – from Portugal to Japan to Kenya and the Middle East. We were lucky enough to be there for one of their Friday night ‘summer sessions’ – a weekly bbq they held through summer – with live music, delicious food and really interesting company. Not only did we get to meet and chat with one of the founding artists - German Xandi Kreuzeder – but we also got to enjoy some crazy psychedelic didgeridoo-tunes with Winga Kan.

To sleep.

Airbnb: lots of options available. We rented a private room with some super friendly locals (a Portuguese guy and his Finnish girlfriend). A perfect and easy option.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to ericeira (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[essaouira soundtrack. castles made of sand]

Essaouira, a tiny white-walled port city on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, is just 100 miles west of Marrakesh. A straight and easy 2-hour drive through dusty desert landscapes, you will arrive at this faded seaside town. A much less frenetic pace than Marrakesh, you can tell it was once a very charming place. Known as the windy city (popular with surfers, windsurfers and other watersporting types), Essaouira has always been a bit of a hippy hot spot, especially in the 60s when the likes of Jimi Hendrix were regular visitors. Now, sadly a little over-developed, it is still quite lovely, but small – very small – so two days is plenty. we were lucky enough to find the most charming of places to stay, and insist you choose either dar emma or dar beida for your next visit (more info below). a wide blue bay, and a sea of white, blue and sand-colored houses that litter the medina, it can be beautiful here. situated on a rocky promontory, the air here is clean, the sea breeze fresh. slow down, take some time to chill, and enjoy the tiny souk laneways, the fishing village atmosphere and the sunshine. long known by its Portuguese name of Mogador (given back in the 16th century), it reverted to its Arab name of Essaouira during Morocco’s independence in 1956.

to caffeinate.

the best cafe is the gelateria (place moulay hassan) in the main square, they serve excellent (well the best we found during out time in the maroc) italian coffee and decent gelato. you can even pick up croissants from driss (our favorite patisserie (a must see), and an Essaouira institution from the 20s) and take them with you to have with your morning coffee. buy a day-old newspaper from home, and watch the fisherman heading off to their boats in the harbor.

to eat.

elizir (1 rue de agadir): this is our favorite eating spot in Essaouira. come here for dinner (more than once). best described as moroccan-italian fusion, it is not just the food we fell madly in love here. climb the spiral stairs into this colorfully kitsch and eccentric space, hidden above some shops, and be encapsulated by the charm of this bohemian house-like restaurant full of separate dining areas and hidden alcoves. only seating 30, it is a warm and inviting space full of mix-matched modernist furniture, antiques, records and other random artifacts. run by abdellatif rharbaoui (who once lived in bologna italy), he eventually got too cold living there, so decided to bring his italian cooking skills back to his hometown. we love the little things. as you are seated, you will be brought a long narrow white platter full of housemade dips and ricotta cheese, with warm, round moroccan berber bread to accompany it. each dish just got better as the night went on. amazing pastas. Delicious tagines. you really cant go wrong. this was hands down our favorite find.

silvestro (rue laâlouj): situated in a lovely rustic space above a shop, this is the perfect place for delicious italian pastas, pizza and seafood. the italian owner ships in local wines from italy. try the pinot. popular with local expats who live here too (always a good sign).

vagabond (off blvd mohammed v): a decent walk from town, but worth it. the best of the beachfront options. completely chilled hippy-surf-shack kind of café – perfect for causal lunches, beers and games of cards under the mimosa trees.

le chalet de la plage (chez jeannot, avenue mohamed v): for a beautiful fresh fish lunch in a cosy, wooden-paneled Essaouira institution overlooking the sea. French people, French food, and a perfect terrace – also great for sundowners.

fish stalls (no. 33 our pick of the bunch): for a casual lunch or dinner. choose from the freshest catch of the day.

la table, and caravane café: both good dinner options as well.

to drink.

taros roof top bar: stunning sunset views over the main square and Atlantic, and very friendly service. This is by far the best place to be for magic hour. stay for dinner as well, the food is great. all the moroccan favorites. look out for waiter, rashid. his smile remains the best, most memorable smile we have ever seen on anyone ever before. ever. it still makes us smile just thinking about it now.

piano bar at sofitel Mogador (avenue mohamed v.): we never made it here, but hear this venue offers the closest thing to western-style nightlife you will find here in this little seaside town (if that’s what you are craving).

we reluctantly recommend le crysalis. reluctantly, because it is a pretty terrible place!!! but we also had possibly the most entertaining night of our maroc trip at this cheesy venue. you will see! get your dancing shoes ready.

to do.

visit the hamman at azur (next to café France) for some pampering.

try the cooking class at l’atelier madada to learn how to cook authentic harira soup and fish tagines.

wander through the fish market: an essential Essaouira experience. the colors (and smells) are a feast for the senses, as are the interesting little sea creatures you will find up for sale.

cruise through the souks – so small, you definitely cant get lost – a collector’s dream cave full of authentic ceramics, rugs, art and more.

walk around the ramparts: the last reminder of the Portuguese influence here. magical sunset views from the top.

visit babel (out of town – route de Marrakesh km12): for a swim and a lunch by their pool. transport can be arranged through dar emma/dar beida (see below). e-mail: babel.essaouira@gmail.com.

visit tagenza: for a fab lunch on a secluded beach 30 minutes away. again, this can be arranged through dar emma/dar beida.

horse riding with equi evasion.

if you are into surf, there are often waves. its not the nicest beach in the world…but if the swell is good, you will have some fun. for those wanting just to hang on the sand – you will be competing with horses, donkeys, 4wds, camels, bat and ball players, and more. the sand is dirty. its windy. but if you are willing, go for it.

visit in June for the annual gnaoua music festival. next year will be the 18th edition.

shop at cute little concept store: histoire des filles.

buy musical instruments (we got our first set of moroccan maracas) from the trance music store in the souk.

to sleep.

castles in the sand: we were so delighted to stumble across these boutique ‘dar’ (Traditional Moroccan house)-style accommodations before arriving in morocco. Owned by Brits – Emma and Graham – there are two houses to choose from. With endless personality and charm, these super stylish and beautiful 150-year old traditional homes have been lovingly restored by Emma and Graham, and make the perfect sleeping option for any trip to Essaouira. We chose Dar Emma – the smaller of the two – for our two night stay. This cute little house was bought by Emma back in 1998. Hidden down a tiny souk laneway, the thick stonewalls and original patterned floor tiles remain throughout and provide so much simplicity and charm. Only minutes from the main square, and just ten minutes walk to the beach, the location is ideal. Furnished with a mix of modern 60s pieces and Moroccan antiques, it’s a beautiful space. Possibly our most favorite thing though – the rooftop terrace. With an outdoor dining table, this is the perfect spot to enjoy a home cooked Moroccan dinner with local Moroccan wine. Emma insists that the best Moroccan food you will eat during your trip here is the food her housekeeper Amina cooks, and she can happily arrange for Amina to come into the house to prepare you a meal. Taking 3-4 hours to prepare, you will be treated to a Moroccan feast to remember.

dar beida (the white house) is the bigger (and larger) sister of Dar Emma. Bought in 2001, this hugely spacious 4-bedroom home (“pop-art cave”) is all white and bright and fresh and beautiful. Described as being a “curvy white spaceship with a mix of mod plastic furniture and animal skins and skulls”, and comfortably sleeping up to eight people, it is the perfect space for a family or group of friends. Pets are welcome as well. Perfect for a family or a group of friends, and pet friendly as well. The rooftop terrace – with hammocks and sun lounges – our favorite bit. We love the retro 60s interior as well, scattered throughout with some of owner Graham’s amazing art – plastic Barbie doll-type framed pieces, and light installations made from plastic and other trash he found on the beach.

As a side note, Emma also has a business selling traditional Beldi rugs. Her beautiful collection is available here.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to essaouira (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. elizabeth polkinghorne and Thorsten keller]

[Hamburg soundtrack. Enjoy the Silence]         

Hamburg wasn’t part of our plan. We had a few days to fill-in on our way to Berlin, and after hearing a lot of good things about Berlin’s neighbor, we decided last-minute to stop by and check it out. Only 90mins from Berlin by train, Hamburg has a different energy. It is the center of Germany’s insurance, internet and newspaper industries; it is also home to the second largest port in Europe; its where the Beatles called home before they became famous (and the cute ivy-covered place they rented is next to one of our favorite restaurants in St. Pauli, Krug); and as well as that, it’s the birthplace of Karl Lagerfeld, and apparently Germany’s second fashion capital. It has a grungy/artsy vibe. We are not a massive fan of the Repperbahn (a street in St. Pauli full of strip clubs, neon lights and brothels), but we like the little streets around it. We love the Lake, wow. The Alster is huge and surrounded by beautiful green space and some gorgeous homes in the surrounding neighborhoods of Winterhude and Rotherbaum. Grab bikes and ride around. You’ll find more than just pumpernickel, sauerkraut, spaetzle, bratwurst and leiderhausen here! We were lucky to be there right in the beating heart of World Cup fever. We saw Germany beat France. The streets were on fire!

We have listed here some of our favorite things from our short three day stay…but for even more insight, check out our interviews with Australian-expat Liz Polkinghorne, and Hamburg local, Thorsten Keller, who know this city inside out and have kindly shared some of their amazing local secrets.

To caffeinate…

Less Political: one of Hamburg’s best ‘third wave’ coffee spots – this old warehouse-turned-café specializes in espresso, cold brew, filter coffee, as well as their own hand-roasted beans to take home. Located right near the Saturday flea market, it’s the perfect spot to drop into after a bit of shopping. Pale wood, minimalist design. Its beautiful here.

Luncheonette: we love this new-ish café in the heart of Ottensen. Offering great barista-style coffee, they had a basic lunch menu when we visited in July, but were just about to extend it to breakfast as well. Right in the heart of Bahrenfelder Strasse, you will find some other cute stuff along here as well.

To eat…

Breakfast at Café Paris (or for wine, dinner etc): this beautiful old building and café is a Hamburg institution. Feeling very European,  you will have a great coffee and breakfast here. If you are in the mood for something sweet, try the hot chocolate. Come back for lunch, aperitif and dinner as well. All so good.

Erste Liebe: located on Michaelisbrücke 3, at the end of the Admiralitatssrasse (home to many galleries and bookstores) – this spot is great for coffee, breakfast, lunch, and an afternoon drink.

Dinner at Vienna: this was our favorite dining experience in the three days we spent in Hamburg. A cute, cosy neighborhood favorite in Fettstrasse. No bookings, but plenty of room (and a cute bar to wait at), so make sure you stick around. Delicious Viennese food.

Dinner at Krug: located in St Pauli on Paul-Roosen-Straße. This super cute little place is housed in a gorgeous ivy-covered building. South German food. Good wine list. Open kitchen. Lovely service. Bookings essential. Some useless trivia – the house next door is where the Beatles lived for some time during the 70s !

Dinner at Chapeau: very hip and happening at the moment. Known for its burger.

We didn’t make it here, but wish we had have had time… Oberstübchen (St. Pauli Fischmarkt 27). A new one by the guys who run Krug. Located right next to the Pudel Club in the Park Fiction. A perfect place for a drink on their sunny terrace, or looking out over the harbor from the cosy inside space. They do a great weekend breakfast as well.

Breakfast, lunch or dinner at Alexandros: we ran out of time to get to Alexandros, but it came very highly recommended to us by Jorg, one of the barmen at Le Lion. A charming local place, just off busy Mönckebergstraße in the city center, apparently this is more like stepping into Alexandros’ home, than a restaurant. A small space – just one room with only a handful of tables. We will be sure to check it out next time. Apparently meeting Alexandros alone is worth the visit. The restaurant used to be a bookshop and some furniture and lovely stuff was kept by the owner.

For something quick and easy, pizza from Slim Jims – close to the Superbude hostel in St Pauli – is a good choice. Grab a seat out on the street.

To drink…

Le Lion Bar de Paris: a gorgeous little hidden cocktail bar, opposite the famed Café Paris. ring the doorbell in the lion’s mouth to be let in. best to make a reservation. brilliant and carefully crafted cocktails .

Toast Bar (Wohlwillstr. 54): on a warm night, locals spill out of this cosy little spot on to the street. Cheap drinks, spinning records, and friendly neighborhood vibes. Djs and good tunes. We really like it here.

The Boilerman Bar: by the same clever guys behind Le Lion (Jorg is the MAESTRO) – another awesome spot for fancy cocktails, they serve “fine Highballs, American Whiskey and a small selection of beer”.

Check out some of the “beach” bars down by the port. Kind of cheesy, but kind of fun. Look out for Strand Perle, and Strand Pauli. A mixed crowd.

Cruise along Sternschanze: lots of bars to choose from.

To shop…

Flohschanze Flea Market: the perfect start to your Saturday morning. This weekly vintage market gets cracking at 8am. It is run out of an old cattle slaughter house building in St Pauli – antiques, jewelry, clothes, second hand bikes, shoes, and more. Stop for a coffee at Less Political on the way. Easy to get to, just jump off the U-Bahn at Feldstraße (Heiligengeistfeld). Not far from here is Marktstrasse (see below) - a quiet little street full of cute boutiques and frequented by a younger, hip crowd.

Markstrasse: for cute boutiques. In particular, we love the vintage shoe store – U2 Schuhe (Marktstr.1A) – some seriously good kicks to be found.

Sternschanze: for cute back streets filled with interesting little boutiques and cafes.

Coffee Table Mags: available at Public Coffee Roasters @ Wexstrasse 28.

Farmers Market: every Tuesday and Friday (from 8:30am-2:00pm) Hamburg’s Isestraße becomes Europe’s largest outdoor market: the Isemarkt (Isestraße 1-37). Set in a charming residential neighborhood with beautiful art nouveau buildings, there are over 200 vendors on display, selling all sorts of wonderful things – flowers, herbs, cured meats, fish, bread, chocolate etc.

Property of…: this male accessory store, new to Hamburg, can also be found in Amsterdam and Singapore. also with stores in Amsterdam and Singapore. Great men’s bags etc, but our favorite bit – free barista-style coffee for customers while they shop (such a nice touch), and on top of that, the brand has a social conscience, too, and donations are welcomed in aid of local homeless charity Hamburger Tafel.

To do...

Get on the gallery circuit…starting of course with our favorite, the Galerie Herold (Colonnaden 5) right in the heart of the city center. If you have time, try to get to the island of Sylt as well, to visit Herold Galerie’s Kampen or Keitum outposts. Its beautiful here.

Also check out the Circle Culture Gallery: for the current exhibition (until 13 September) – Nothing Is What It Seems, by Olivia Steele. A collection of photographs and her latest neon sign installations. Open by appointment.

Try to track down the Kitchen Guerilla: an underground mobile dinner club. Run by Koral, a Turkish ex-pat living in Hamburg, and local Hamburger, Olaf…this is a super fun mobile, pop-up dinner movement. Known to hijack restaurants, boats, construction sites, or even sail boats on the Med! Check the website for dinners, dates and locations.

Go for a run, or ride bikes around the Alster (the lake in the middle of the city). Nothing better on a sunny day. Check out the beautiful homes in the surrounding neighborhoods of Winterhude and Rotherbaum.

Speicherstadt (near the water): good for a little wander around.

Wander around the Port: one of the busiest in the world – and check out the fischmarkt. Hamburg’s oldest fish market has been thriving since 1703 !

To sleep…

25 Hours Hotel (Number One): there are a few of these hotels around Europe (and a couple in Hamburg itself) all promoting “style at an affordable price”. The vibe is young and creative. Somewhat retro in design, you will notice cute (sometimes a tad tacky though) design features incl bespoke bedroom and bathroom furniture, bare concrete ceilings, string curtains, an awesome in-house magazine (our favorite part of the whole hotel !!) curated by the ever popular and super-dialed in, Freunde von Freunden, as well as cute (environmentally-friendly) bathroom products, and a pop-up burger stand out the front (housed in a vintage airstream). The design is simple and modern (perhaps a bit too modern for our tastes), but makes for a very affordable and easy sleeping option. Free bikes a nice touch as well.

Superbude: this is effectively an upmarket/hip hostel - ‘Bude’ meaning a ‘simple cabin’ in German. A fun place to stay. Great communal areas. A couple of locations (make sure you are at the right one when you check in!). Basic rooms, but clean and cute design features. Very affordable.

Gastwerk: a carefully restored industrial building  (an old gas plant) located in Ottensen, this is a gorgeous boutique sleeping option. All brick and steel, this beautifully designed hotel is a bit more pricey than 25 Hours and Superbude, but is definitely the more superior choice out of the three. A lovely outdoor terrace restaurant as well.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to hamburg (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. jessica baird walsh]

[hong kong soundtrack. stolen dance]

this crazy, smoggy, chaotic city might not be everyone’s cuppa tea…but we love it here for a quick stopover on our way somewhere else. its busy, its loud, its dirty, the traffic is painstaking, people are pushy…but there is still a lot of beauty to be found if you give it a chance. apart from the big city fix you will get in bounds, hong kong also offers an abundance of natural beauty – hidden beaches, beautiful hiking trails, and endless boating opportunities.

to caffeinate…

since our last fleeting visit here a couple of years ago, we are happy to find that things are looking up on the hk coffee scene. with only 48 hours here this time, we were still able to sniff out a few super cute spots for good caffeine brews.

unar: our favorite of the lot, in our favorite neighborhood – tai hang. no indoor seating, just a long outdoor bench. grab your cup of choice (they do a great flat white) and grab a perch. look out for the delicious bakery goods from googg bakery as well (at the unar coffee star ferry outpost).

rabbithole coffee and roaster: we like this super cute spot down landale street in wan chai. you can choose your blend of choice, as you order. wifi as well.

coco espresso: two locations (the original in central). we love the gorgeous little oasis on anton street, which also has a cute courtyard out the back, and the most adorable aqua green coffee cups we have seen.

the nest coffee shop: a great little initiative opened by the nesbitt centre, a vocational training organization for adults with learning challenges. really good coffee, made by people with special needs, giving them a supportive environment to prepare for heading out into the wider world.

to eat…

bakery goods: googg bakery, not far from the hustle and bustle of hong kong’s sham shui po in kowloon, for fresh biscuits made into novel shapes. also available at unar coffee outpost at the star ferry.

burgers from the butcher’s club: this new burger joint in wan chai is proving hugely popular. and rightly so. their meat here is from black angus cattle from nsw in australia! and its all organic hormone-free, and grass fed. juicy, quality burgers, and good vibes.

grassroots pantry: a very cute lunch spot in sai ying pun – focused around healthy, nutritious, plant-based dishes. unprocessed, local, sustainable and organic ingredients are used where possible.

dumplings: dumplings for days… a shanghai specialty, hong kong also does these precious parcels of deliciousness with ease and expertise. so popular, arriving early at any of the stellar dumpling joints can alleviate the time spent potentially waiting for a table.

check out: tim ho wan (two locations) in mong kok, and sham shui po – for renowned michelin dimsum. or otherwise, din tai fung – a big world chain – but don’t let that deter you. fast, efficient service and amazingly delicious dumplings. you can watch the chefs in the kitchen painstakingly make each dumpling from scratch. the steamed shanghai dumplings still remain our favorite – but you must also try the black truffle ones, and the spicy shrimp as well.

little bao: if you like buns, this is the place for you! vietnamese buns filled with all sorts of goodness. the standard flavors are pork and fish – and then add some crazy sides to go with them as well. worth checking out, but be prepared to wait. in central.

a chicken dinner at yardbird: almost exclusively chicken-based, focused around yakitori. try the kfc (a must), and the yardbird caesar. no ressies.

no.5 italian: a cute and charmingly authentic italian joint in tai hang. always busy, so make sure you book. a cute little courtyard as well.

tung po: a super local canto joint at the top of the north point municipal market – way off the normal beaten track. bookings essential.

chachawan: for great thai food on hollywood road in sheung wan.

chef studio by eddy: a private kitchen in an old industrial building in aberdeen (middle of nowhere from a tourist perspective). come for the experience, not necessarily the food.

italian from 121 bc: from the same people behind vini and 121 bc in sydney, come here for authentic italian, cute wine bar and bottle shop.

for the spectacle more than the ice cream itself, check out this sciencey ice cream joint – lab made, which dishes up ice cream made from liquid nitrogen, right before your very eyes.

to drink…

café gray on the top floor of the upperhouse: its definitely no secret, but its by far and away the best place for amazing views of the harbor from the 49th floor, while sipping deliciously good cocktails.

honi honi tiki cocktail lounge: meaning “kiss kiss” in polynesian, honi honi is a fun place for cocktails in central.

pastis: a cute little sidewalk café/bar, pastis is popular with the french expat community and offers classic french bistro food, with a good range of french wines, beers, aperitifs, and cognacs. cosy, casual and always busy.

china club: located in the old bank of china building – this is member’s only club is an oldie, but a goodie. a beautiful outdoor terrace, perfect for before or after dinner drinks. great food as well.

to shop…

our number one store in all of hong kong: cos. the same swedish owners as h&m, their clean, structured lines make us weak at the knees!

tai hang: a cool little neighborhood only 10min walk from causeway bay. wander through the little sidestreets and stumble across goodness. we like the little retro store feel so good, selling a great range of vintage pendant lights, and other homewares. volume one is a cute little boutique somewhat hard to find. part teahouse/part fashion and accessories – we like the space itself more than the actual contents of the store – but its definitely cute for a quick squiz.

wai chan: wander the streets around star, ship and sun streets. we love vein – a store that stopped us in our tracks when walking past for the first time – beautiful scandinavian labels in hong kong. perfectly curated. we also love the monocle store in st. francis yard. monocle is one of our favorite magazines, and we love this edit of monocle collaborations and old issues of their awe-inspiring mag.

gough street: a great little street in central to poke around in. some super cute vintage stores. some of our favorites include mr blacksmith, a design ware store for industrial homewares…and homeless (various locations) for more modern home goods.

peekaboo: a cute little store in causeway bay filled with simple, well-structured, korean designed pieces.

reverie: for beautiful vintage pieces in the heart of central.

to do…

find this secret beach – ham tim beach - in sai kung. this is our favorite place in all of hong kong. just off the coast of the new territories, you can access the beach by a bus from sai kung town and then you need to find the walking trail which will take you down to the beach. it’s a bit of a mission, but this magical hidden beauty is definitely worth it. you can even camp on the beach overnight, and camping stuff is available from the basic restaurant down there, making it really easy. don’t miss this.

happy valley: for laidback wednesday evening horse racing.

take a junk trip: grab a group of buddies and set out for a day of fun on the sea.

hike up to the peak for some amazing views (and a good workout).

practice tai chi with the oldies in victoria park, causeway bay, or kowloon park in tsim sha tsui on the kowloon side.

visit the oil street art space in north point to check out the i’mperfect xchange. a project run by designers, hung lam and eddy yu, doing good through creative collaborations focusing on the acceptance of imperfection. i’mperfect xchange has a barter system for making transactions. bring a can of food, or other produce, and in return, you will be given a little herb plant. all food collected is taken directly to those in the community who are in need.

eat dumplings, and more dumplings (see above)…

visit the beaches of stanley, chung hom kok, and repulse bay.

nails: be pampered. a couple of spots we like….iyara, and the nail library.

blow dry: get a blow out at hk’s first blow dry-only salon, airplay (for the full blow dry bar service complete with champagne and big tv screens showing project runway!), or mina de’vwil - a reliable alternative on cochrane street (next to iyara nails). a bargain at 88hkd (usd10) for a wash and blow dry.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to hong kong (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +

[spotlight series. kathrin smirke and kristo torgersen]

[joshua tree soundtrack. sunshine]

Located in the Mojave Desert, Joshua Tree is a remarkably special place. We love time spent here. The magic is undeniable. The Mojave first cast its spell over us after a chance invite back in March 2013. A friend of a friend invited us to a birthday event they were hosting at the Integratron (see below), a magnetic dome in the middle of the high desert that was built on a powerful energy vortex, where sound baths are conducted. On our first visit, we found ourselves with twelve random new friends, lying on yoga mats inside the dome, listening to the resonating sounds of the quartz bowls bouncing off the rounded walls of the dome and trembling through the floorboards. A meditation like no other. We were even lucky enough to spend the night inside the dome. It was magic. We hiked through the National Park, weaving between the funny looking yucca trees. We drove out to explore Giant Rock. We shopped and snacked in the main street in town. And we spent hours gazing at starry-filled desert skies. From that weekend on, we were hooked.

Returning again last month, the experience was equally as intoxicating.

In Joshua Tree, you will swim in a sea of Mojave calm. It’s a place for solitude and clarity. It is easy to see why it has long attracted nature lovers, musicians, artists, New Age spiritual seekers and other urban refugees. A perfect, peaceful and private Idaho in which to soak up all the best of the desert wonders.

Below you will find all our updated recommendations. We are also excited to introduce Kathrin Smirke, owner of Dome in the Desert and fashion label, Gypsan, as one of our new desert insiders.

To eat.

Natural Sisters Café: for decent coffee and lots of organic, healthy favorites. Great juices, smoothies, baked goods, salads, sandwiches and vegan options as well.

Crossfoods: for good breakfasts, burgers, tacos and more.

Joshua Tree Health Foods: for all your healthy staples.

Pappy and Harriet’s (see below): where all the food is amazing. Definitely order some meat from the grill. The steak equals perfection. The ribs are famed. And we love their veggie burger as well.

To shop.

Joshua Tree Farmers Market: held every Saturday (8am-1pm) just off the Twentynine Palms Highway.

The End: for recycled designer finds. Contemporary and vintage. Anything from Band of Outsiders to Opening Ceremony.

BKB Ceramics: for beautiful pottery and other handcrafted goods. BKB’s ethos is pure, sustainable, conscious, handcrafted design.

Hoof & The Horn: a cute, well-curated boutique in the Yucca Valley for modern and vintage desert gems. Stocked full of hi-desert essentials, as well as some great brands including Commune, Minnetonka moccasins and local jewelry designers.

Ricochet: we love this cute spot for unique vintage finds. Dresses, bags, sunglasses, cowboy boots and more. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

To do.

Explore the National Park. This can take hours, days, weeks. Take as long as you need. Hike. There are so many trails to choose from. One of our favorites is the 49 Palms Oasis Trail (a 3 mile return trip) where you hike into a desert oasis filled with the coolest looking pineapple-palm trees. We pretended it was hundreds of years earlier and how stoked we would have been to find this shady little patch of desert heaven.

Pappy and Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace: no trip to Joshua Tree is complete without a visit to this awesome honky-tonking, BBQing, live music venue in nearby Pioneertown. A town that was built solely to be used as a country and western film set, Pappy’s stands alone here as the go-to destination in this faux town. Hang out with desert-rats and escaped city-slickers. Hoedown to the local Sunday band (the Hot Fudge Sunday). Or if its around Coachella time, catch one of the side shows under the stars – War on Drugs play 15 April, Jamie XX plays 15 April.

Integratron: come to this magical and powerfully energetic site (mentioned above) – the only all-wood, acoustically perfect sound chamber in the US – to rejuvenate, meditate, and to take part in one of the incredible sound baths.  With your heads in the center of the dome, you will lie on yoga mats, and listen as a series of quartz bowls (all of various frequencies) are played. The sound waves are incredibly meditative. Hard not to find this an incredibly positive and healing experience. Come also for the meteor shower party.

High Desert Test Sites: founded and administered in 2002 by the queen of the hi-desert’s art community, Andrea Zittel, HDTS is a series of open-desert locations providing an experimental way for emerging and established artists to show their experimental art installations, and performances, exploring desert themes of “contemporary art and life at large.”

Noah Purifoy Joshua Tree Outdoor Desert Art Museum: over ten acres of crazy outdoor sculptures, this desert museum has to be seen. Using recycled materials, Noah Purifoy created these surreal sculptures using castoff metals, burnt wood, blown-out rubber tires and more, over a fifteen-year period from 1989 to 2004.

Take a side trip to Idyllwild. Nestled into the San Jacinto mountains, this peaceful mountain getaway is perfect for day hikes, longer hiking journeys and rock climbing. Perfect in Springtime. Rent a cabin.

Salvation Mountain: a whacky art installation covering a hill in the Colorado Desert (kind of in the middle of nowhere) near Slab City, and further on than the Salton Sea. Created by local resident Leonard Knight (who passed away last year), Salvation Mountain is made from adobe, straw and thousands of gallons of paint. It is filled with bright colored murals and areas painted with Christian sayings and Bible verses. It is a big detour from wherever you are, and wherever you are going, but it’s a brilliant photo opportunity if nothing else.

The Salton Sea: a shallow, saline rift lake located directly on the San Andreas Fault line, in California’s Imperial and Coachella valleys. We detoured via here on the way to Joshua Tree (its quite a detour!). The Salton Sea, with an estimated surface area of 343 square miles (890 km2) or 350 square miles (910 km2), is the largest lake in California. The day we visited (a Sunday) we were lucky enough to stumble across a cute local farmers market, mainly Mexican stallholders, selling homemade tamales, tostadas, and tacos. 

To sleep…

Dome in the Desert: this magical little dome is our most beloved Airbnb find so far. Only 5 minutes from town, you have your own little patch of desert here. This dome itself has a modern-gypsy aesthetic, a beautiful mix of mid-century modern and vintage furnishings. Fully self-contained, it also comes complete with a meditation loft, vintage palm-reading books, hanging chairs, a guitar, and miles and miles of clear open skies made perfect for star-gazing. We wanted to stay forever.

29 Palms Inn: surrounded by the vast Mojave Desert looking up to the National Park, this 70-acre property is a desert institution. Stay here for cute bungalows and wood-frame cabins all set in an oasis of palms. Peacefully and perfectly located for trips into the National Park, it’s a great base for your desert stay. There is a cute pool, and a simple-looking (but delicious) restaurant. The service was uber-friendly and the steak was on point. There is a lovely organic garden to wander around, and hammocks to chill out on. The stars here shine brighter than ever. A perfect desert base, bursting with character and good vibes.

+ like what you see? we would love to help curate a personalized itinerary for your next trip to joshua tree (or anywhere along the way). please email hello@itsbeautifulhere.com for more info. happy adventuring +